call turner
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- Feb 4, 2012
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Can someone explain to me the proper way to patch a 50 cal round ball. Thank you, Im new to it and want to get it right. Any special size or type of patch?
patching a round ball
- Thread starter call turner
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The patch has to be large enough that it wraps a bit more then half way around the round ball. After you load the powder and tamp it you place the patch centered over the barrel and the ball in the center then you use a starter or the ramrod and press the ball and the patch into the barrel. With the ramrod you slide the ball firmly down the barrel and press it firmly into the powder.
There are also plastic patches that can be used instead of cloth. These are a calibre specific cup with a seal that you ram rod down the barrel under the ball instead of the cloth patch.
There are also plastic patches that can be used instead of cloth. These are a calibre specific cup with a seal that you ram rod down the barrel under the ball instead of the cloth patch.
Loyalist Dave
Member
Many folks use a ball that is .010 smaller in diameter than the caliber of the barrel. So..., a .50 caliber shoots a .490 ball, and my .54 shoots a .530 round ball. Some folks find that a ball that is .005 smaller is better, so they would shoot a .495 ball in a .50.
Next, you need to find the right patch material and thickness. You want 100% natural plant fiber, so 100% cotton, or 100% linen or fustain, or 100% hemp. (IF you used something that had polyester or nylon, it will melt in the bore and give you headaches when cleaning.) You then need it at least .010 thick to take up the space between the ball and the actual lands and grooves of the barrel to get the ball to spin stabilize when you shoot...., sometimes the patching material can be as thick as .015 or even .018 depending on how deep the grooves of the barrel are.
Many folks starting out buying pre-cut patches for their caliber and the package will tell the buyer the caliber and the thickness... and then give that a try with their rifle ball. Many of the "pre-cut" patches out there already come lubricated, so you save a step there.
You can find online manuals from Thompson Center or Pedersoli that will give you the loading procedure. IF you can't load at all at the muzzle without a lot of force, your patch is too thick or your ball is too large. You may have to experiment with powder, patch, and ball loads before you get optimal accuracy.
LD
Next, you need to find the right patch material and thickness. You want 100% natural plant fiber, so 100% cotton, or 100% linen or fustain, or 100% hemp. (IF you used something that had polyester or nylon, it will melt in the bore and give you headaches when cleaning.) You then need it at least .010 thick to take up the space between the ball and the actual lands and grooves of the barrel to get the ball to spin stabilize when you shoot...., sometimes the patching material can be as thick as .015 or even .018 depending on how deep the grooves of the barrel are.
Many folks starting out buying pre-cut patches for their caliber and the package will tell the buyer the caliber and the thickness... and then give that a try with their rifle ball. Many of the "pre-cut" patches out there already come lubricated, so you save a step there.
You can find online manuals from Thompson Center or Pedersoli that will give you the loading procedure. IF you can't load at all at the muzzle without a lot of force, your patch is too thick or your ball is too large. You may have to experiment with powder, patch, and ball loads before you get optimal accuracy.
LD
Patocazador
Member
One thing that wasn't mentioned is the patch HAS TO BE lubricated. There are as many lubes used as there are elements. 
The most common is some type of vegetable oil like olive or corn oil. Also used are various concoctions of beeswax with lard or Crisco. In cold weather lard can be used with no wax but in hot weather it is a mess. You only need enough lube to moisten the patch, not saturate it.
The most common is some type of vegetable oil like olive or corn oil. Also used are various concoctions of beeswax with lard or Crisco. In cold weather lard can be used with no wax but in hot weather it is a mess. You only need enough lube to moisten the patch, not saturate it.
J-Bar
Member
I do not use a precut patch. I went to the fabric store and bought a couple of yards of pillow ticking for a lifetime supply. Wash the pillow ticking to remove the "sizing" that the manufacturer treats it with, makes it more flexible. Tear the fabric into strips about a foot long and 2 inches wide.
I like a really juicy patch and use Pam spray, the stuff you spray on pots and pans to keep food from sticking. If I am going to the target range I will take the aerosol with me, if I am going hunting I will spray a strip of ticking and put it in a Ziploc bag in my pack.
After throwing the powder charge, I like to use something between the powder and the patched ball to keep the lube from contacting the powder. A wad of toilet paper or paper towel works for me. Seat the over powder wad all the way down on the powder.
Then lay the lubed ticking over the muzzle and push the ball into the bore with your finger as far as you can. My rifle has no rifling at the muzzle so it's easy. Otherwise use your short starter to get the ball down into the barrel just past the crown, with the ticking puckered up around it. Then take your pocket knife (old timers had a "patch knife") and cut the ticking flush with the muzzle. Then seat the ball all the way down on the powder.
You can easily get 10 patches out of a 12" strip of ticking, and it will always be a perfect fit. I get very good accuracy with this patch even if I only swab the barrel after every third shot.
I like a really juicy patch and use Pam spray, the stuff you spray on pots and pans to keep food from sticking. If I am going to the target range I will take the aerosol with me, if I am going hunting I will spray a strip of ticking and put it in a Ziploc bag in my pack.
After throwing the powder charge, I like to use something between the powder and the patched ball to keep the lube from contacting the powder. A wad of toilet paper or paper towel works for me. Seat the over powder wad all the way down on the powder.
Then lay the lubed ticking over the muzzle and push the ball into the bore with your finger as far as you can. My rifle has no rifling at the muzzle so it's easy. Otherwise use your short starter to get the ball down into the barrel just past the crown, with the ticking puckered up around it. Then take your pocket knife (old timers had a "patch knife") and cut the ticking flush with the muzzle. Then seat the ball all the way down on the powder.
You can easily get 10 patches out of a 12" strip of ticking, and it will always be a perfect fit. I get very good accuracy with this patch even if I only swab the barrel after every third shot.
The way I've heard it told is to know what the groove diameter is. In my case it is, according to Lyman, .520" for my .50 cal.
I am using 0.016" patch (pillow ticking) and a .490" RB. Add the thickness of the patch twice, as it's on both sides of the ball, to your ball's diameter. This adds up to .522" for me, and it can require a bit of force to fully seat.
The tighter the fit the better the accuracy I've read. Some use mallets to seat their's. And some prefer an easy thumb force fit so that they can shoot much more, and without additional tools.
I am using 0.016" patch (pillow ticking) and a .490" RB. Add the thickness of the patch twice, as it's on both sides of the ball, to your ball's diameter. This adds up to .522" for me, and it can require a bit of force to fully seat.
The tighter the fit the better the accuracy I've read. Some use mallets to seat their's. And some prefer an easy thumb force fit so that they can shoot much more, and without additional tools.
madcratebuilder
Member
A google search should bring up some good articles on "reading a patch" Working out the best combination of ball diameter and patch thickness can yield dividends in accuracy.
J-Bar
Member
frontiergander
Member
what rifle/caliber you have would help greatly.
call turner
Member
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- Feb 4, 2012
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I have a 50 cal Thompson Hawkins, I also just received a .490 round ball mould.
frontiergander
Member
okay that helps great.
.015" - .018" patches will great.
This may help with some round ball items,
http://patchnball.blogspot.com/
.015" - .018" patches will great.
This may help with some round ball items,
http://patchnball.blogspot.com/
I think he forgot how light his trigger was on that first shot, he didnt spend any time sighting his shot. After that first one he spent a little more time.
Pancho
Member
Bower, the reason a revolver doesn't use a patch is because someone, maybe Colt, came up with the idea of the mechanical advantaged loading lever that could press,grave and pre-size the soft lead bullet into a size that would be further sized by the guns forcing cone to the proper size that would finally be molded fully into the rifling.
Previous to the loading lever loading without a patch was just not practical.
Previous to the loading lever loading without a patch was just not practical.
Zeke/PA
Member
I shoot a .490 round ball in my T.C. Hawkin also.
I use an 1" diameter Arch Punch (gasket punch) to pre cut .013" patches that I pre-lube.
The rifle is a very accurate round ball shooter.
madcratebuilder
Member
Colts first revolver, the Paterson did not have a loading lever. Many of Colt's pocket frames did not have loading levers because of size and weight requirements. Colt revolvers without a loading lever use the end of the arbor to seat the RB. Colt offered a small tool called the "mushroom" to seat RB's in chambers, a short brass rod with a mushroomed end to fit the palm of the hand.
Mushroom tool.
Paterson loading tool.
Rifles use a patch because it would be extremely difficult to ram a RB the length of the barrel, a lubed patch makes this job much easier.
call turner
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- Feb 4, 2012
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So how do you know the thickness of your patch material? (.013 - .018) Is there a certain material that works best - cotton - linen?
J-Bar
Member
You experiment. If the ball seats down onto the powder without too much effort, and if the used patch is not cut or burned through, and if accuracy is acceptable...
Pillow ticking is a good one to start with, a "standard" if you will. Go thicker or thinner based on your own results.
call turner
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What is pillow ticking? A pillow case?
frontiergander
Member
no, pillow ticking is blue and white patch material.
PRM
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Pillow Ticking is the material that back in the day was stuffed with feathers to make bed pillows - not the outer pillow case.
It's sold now a lot of places as patch material. I've always bought mine at Dixie Gun Works.
The method I have always used was to cut the pillow ticking in strips the appropriate width for the ball (a little over size to get a good wrap). I use pure unsalted lard and grease the cloth in lengths about a foot long and roll them up. To use, after measuring and pouring the powder down the barrel, I unroll the ticking a little and place it over the muzzle and press my ball flush using the rounded end of my short start. Once flush, I trim the excess with a patch knife. Use the short start to push it down the barrel a few inches and finish it with the ramrod.
I carry the rolled strips in a small wooden box in my possibles bag. You can get 10 - 12 shots per roll.
It's sold now a lot of places as patch material. I've always bought mine at Dixie Gun Works.
The method I have always used was to cut the pillow ticking in strips the appropriate width for the ball (a little over size to get a good wrap). I use pure unsalted lard and grease the cloth in lengths about a foot long and roll them up. To use, after measuring and pouring the powder down the barrel, I unroll the ticking a little and place it over the muzzle and press my ball flush using the rounded end of my short start. Once flush, I trim the excess with a patch knife. Use the short start to push it down the barrel a few inches and finish it with the ramrod.
I carry the rolled strips in a small wooden box in my possibles bag. You can get 10 - 12 shots per roll.
BSA1
member
Bower,
The ball in a revolver still needs to have lube. The easiest and neatest way is to seat a lubed felt wad between the powder and ball. The cheapest and messy way is to smear Cris o grease over the ball after it is seated.
The ball in a revolver still needs to have lube. The easiest and neatest way is to seat a lubed felt wad between the powder and ball. The cheapest and messy way is to smear Cris o grease over the ball after it is seated.
Steel Horse Rider
Member
I use .22 caliber cleaning patches as they are pure cotton, readily available, and relatively inexpensive. I lube them with Bore Butter and keep them in a small yogurt container with the balls. Makes reloading a breeze.
J-Bar
Member
Most any fabric store carries pillow ticking:
http://www.joann.com/search?q=pillow ticking
Pretty cheap patches this way.
http://www.joann.com/search?q=pillow ticking
Pretty cheap patches this way.
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