Plated bullets for pistols

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phonesysphonesys

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I am having trouble finding the normal lead bullets that I use for my .38 and .45 Colt. I am on the fence about using plated bullets. Is there a special way to load them? Those that have used them what is your opinion? Do you use different loading data?
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
I treat plated kind of like jacketed with a speed limit. The plated bullets companies will have the maximum reccomended speed for their bullets on their websites.
Thick plated is usually around 1500, and standard plated is around 1250fps.
Now if I am loading plated bullets for my .357 Magnum then I load them to keep them under the speed limit of the bullet and also, if they don't have a cannelure then I use a taper crimp die on them.
Do not use a roll crimp die on them if they have no cannelure.
Some companies like Xtreme bullets put cannelures on their plated bullets but they are expensive compared to some other companies.
https://www.xtremebullets.com/38-s/48044.htm

Most of the bullet companies do not put cannelures on their plated bullets.
I mostly treat plated bullets like lead bullets but only take them to 1200 fps, if that makes any sense.
 
Use them and don't worry too much about it.
Work up a separate load, of course, (I used JHP load data) and be aware that too much crimp may damage them.
 
In my experience with Berry's plated pistol bullets... mostly 9mm...

Berrys will have a max recommended velocity, but accuracy tends to go to crap well before that. You cannot accurately push them like jacketed bullets. Load them to cast lead velocities, and the accuracy will be very good.

If you shoot 9mm and want to load some heat, or have a caliber RMR has in stock, their jacketed bullets are about the same price as the plated Berrys.

As for buying Berrys, Powder Warehouse is the cheapest place I have found.

Good Luck!
 
I use lead bullet data (swaged or cast) when loading plated bullets, and generally stay below the maximum charge. If jacketed data is all I can find, I stay well below maximum, often close to starting charges.

If the plated bullet has no cannelure, I use a taper crimp. If the bullet has a cannelure, and the ammo is for a revolver, I use a light roll crimp.
 
Some starting lead data can be too low with plated, max lead or midrange jacketed won’t get you in trouble, and max jacketed is often OK, but can also be too much.

It has been posted to use jacketed data and keep the speed below max recommended for that bullet, and this will likely be just fine the cast majority of the time, but be careful with heavy for the caliber bullets and fast powders.

There is a lot plated data out there these days as well.

And as always, work up carefully.
 
Ironicaintit said:
Use them and don't worry too much about it.
Work up a separate load, of course, (I used JHP load data) and be aware that too much crimp may damage them.
Click to expand...

This is a big thing. I have a friend that have tried plated bullets in their 929, and even with the minimal recoil of 9mm, the bullets walked forward. When they tried to increase crimp, it easily deformed the bullet which obviously effects accuracy.

kcofohio said:
Neck tension, it's a must, especially if cannelure isn't present.
Click to expand...

Which brings me to this. Good neck tension will be a must have or youll have bullets walking forward.

Walkalong said:
Can you find coated lead?
Click to expand...

I feel this is the best option for plinking bullets. A good coated bullet can stand up to alot of velocity if you want to go there without leading the barrel. Or will work quite well as an inexpensive plinker.
 
This is one of those areas of reloading where it would be good for the handloader to know how to calculate seating depth using the bullet base-to-ogive and cartridge base-to-ogive measures. Seating depth is what determines powder column available volume and the powder column volume vs. air space determines pressure to at least some degree. In a small, high-pressure case like the 9mm losing any volume due to deeper seating can make a big difference in pressure.
 
phonesysphonesys said:
I am having trouble finding the normal lead bullets that I use for my .38 and .45 Colt. I am on the fence about using plated bullets. Is there a special way to load them? Those that have used them what is your opinion? Do you use different loading data?
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
Click to expand...

OP, if you're on the fence here, look at coated bullets[Missouri Bullets, T & B Bullets, etc.] They're probably easier to work with. In my case, coated works better in .357, .45 acp and .45 Colt.
And less expensive than plated most of the time. Good luck.
 
Unless it is a caliber that requires a heavy crimp, such as 44 mag... plated bullets are FAR easier to work with than cast!

They do not require the case to be bell mouthed to I sert the bullet, and I don't crimp them at all. Simply use the neck expander after sizing and seat the bullet. Plus, plated leave the gun a LOT cleaner than messing cast or coated bullets... especially if fitted with a can.

This being said, within the last year I purchased both 147 grain 9mm plated Berrys bullets I bought... and RMR brand FMJ. Both were right at $100/1000. The FMJ shoot better in my carbine. Plated starts to lose accuracy as they approach supersonic speeds. They work great in pistols though. I'm almost out if the Berrys and have 2000 RMR to go through. Probably stick with RMR as long as they price is the same.

I have some 220-245 grain coated 300 Blackout bullets, but haven't used them. The Berry 220 grain cast are just too EASY to use (again, no bellmouthing or crimping) The coated ones will probably die of old age on the shelf. Lol
 
As n2omike said, plated works in pistols/revolvers fine. Never had any luck with them in my lever guns. And coated bullets, in my case, have always been as clean shooting as plated.
No residue, very easy to clean.
 
.45Coltguy said:
As n2omike said, plated works in pistols/revolvers fine. Never had any luck with them in my lever guns. And coated bullets, in my case, have always been as clean shooting as plated.
No residue, very easy to clean.
Click to expand...
Several years ago a member here was selling some Berry's 158 gr RN at a good price. I found they work good with HP-38 or Titegroup in my 77/357 bolt-action, shooting at 50 yds. I never tried them in a revolver. I should though, as I have about 700 of the bullets left. :)
 
LiveLife said:
You can buy jacketed 158 gr bullets for $120.65 and free shipping from RMR with 5% discount code (PM member for code) - https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bullets/pistol/357-38/357-38-158-gr-fmj-round-nose-flat-point/
Click to expand...
Their jacketed 158gr. is a nice bullet. I have a few thousand Fiocchi 142gr .357" with the same basic profile and design. Either one would probably be real good in a .350 Legend, if maybe a little oversize, for plinking. It doesn't need a cannelure, either. The jacket is thick enough to take a slight roll crimp, which is nice but confuses some newbies. Not all revolver bullets need a cannelure and not all bullets for self-loaders are missing one. Also, from the bullets I've recovered, the hollow base only expands for me when I use heavier loads in .357Mag. Not really at all in .38Spl. Doesn't really matter just an FYI in case someone wants to know about that concave, swaged lead base.
Jacketed has advantages but expanding and obturating aren't among them. For target, I always prefer wadcutters, softer than 10-12BHN (which is not really at all soft) and with a hollow or concave base. Jacketed in revolvers make great plinkers, though. Easy cleanup after loading and shooting. And at 12¢/each they're good for anything but hunting or precise target work (they tend to tear targets instead of punching clean holes like wadcutters).
 
When plated bullets first began getting popular I tried some. From what the manufacturers said, one recommended a "formula" to compare to jacketed bullets and one said use lead bullet data. I used lead bullet data and methods. I started with semi-auto calibers and had no problem determining seating depth, but read new reloaders questions (posted daily in the forums I frequented) about problems with plated bullets. OAL, crimping, load data questions were the norm.

I was not impressed with the bullets I tried were of so-so quality (consistent bullet seating was a major problem and a no crimp groove/cannelure for revolver cartridge lead to bullets "jumping crimp" unless I roll crimped and then I got plating peeling/fouling). My cast bullets are of better quality and consistency, don't lead barrels too much and are accurate. When I want velocity, I go with jacketed bullets. So, I no longer use plated bullets. (I have a box of 235 9mm Plated HP bullets in the back of my bullet cabinet that I could not get less than .006"+ variation in seating depth due to variations in bullet ogive and length (same shape/weight cast bullet often varied by .001"-.002" with my Hornady and Lee dies on my Co-Ax.). A lot of guys like them but I won't waste my time with them...).

If I were to make a suggestion, I would mention Acme bullets and inexpensive, but very good quality RMR bullets...
 
I too am looking to try plated bullets. Looking at SNS casting. Was hoping to find some tips in this thread. Oh well.
 
I just treat them like a cleaner version of a cast bullet. If you use jacketed bullet data w softer bullets, the slide can batter the frame pretty badly. I had a 1911 so banged up it was nearly not possible to feild strip. I dont see the need to use max velocity on target loads. Saves powder & wear & tear.
 
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