Pondering a Spanish Mauser rebarrel???

[Wylie1]

The internet kinda makes me crazy with researching certain things and this rebarrel thought is going that direction.
I have a Spanish Mauser chambered in 30.06 with a cracked barrel right at the base of the barrel's threads.

Being I'm without a Varmit rifle or at least a rifle I'd be able to do pelts with so 220 Swift or 22/250 comes to mind.

What I have learned so far is I am likely better off with the 220 Swift than the 22/250 being the difference in action length as well as bolt face characteristics?

If memory serves me brass ejection with the Mauser is a trick being the chamber has to have a notch properly indexed for the extractor? This would likely be the hardest part of the rebarrel?

Would there be preliminary testing of the action I would be able to do myself in order to assure the action is true? This would be a fat chunk of change to throw into something that wouldn't shoot straight. As much as possible I'd like to illiminate the possibility of a very expensive boat oar!

As well suggestions on parts would be greatly valued!

 

[rcmodel]

Hopefully it is a Mauser 98 action.
If it's one of the earlier Spanish 93 or 95 Mauser's, it isn't strong enough for .220 Swift, 22-250, or 30-06 either.

If it is a 98, I'd go .22-250.

The bolt face is exactly the same as 30-06, and the rimless case will feed better then the semi-rimmed Swift without trying to modify the receiver rails and ruin them for anything.

Standard Lg ring 98 Mauser or small ring G33/40 barrels are not notched for the extractor.

Mod 24 Yugo's & G98/40's are.

rc

 

[NCsmitty]

You didn't indicate what model Sp Mauser that you have, and how the barrel became cracked.
It would be best if you removed the bad barrel so an inspection of the lug seats can be viewed for lug set back, as some Sp Mausers do have a history of questionable heat treat.

If it's a small ring, don't waste your time, and if it's a M98 style, have someone familiar with what to look for, inspect it.
IMO, the 22-250 might be easier to get to feed right than the semi-rimmed Swift.


NCsmitty

 

[Wylie1]

That's some good news as I would prefer 22/250 to 220 Swift anyway.

The rifle was a gift and I was the only one who noticed the barrel was not parallel with the action, it's only a degree or two out of parallel and I dont know how the barrel became cracked.

It is a large ring Mauser although not being versed, model is a question I can't answer. It is an R.FAMAGE is the best I can do other than a date of 1952. Hell yeah poet at work here!

 

[rcmodel]

R.FAMAGE would indicate an 8mm 1950 98 Mauser, probably made by FN, and then converted by Columbia to shoot 30-06 ammo we were supplying them.

It should be a good action, but I would folllow NCsmitty's advice and have it inspected by a gunsmith that knows what he is looking at.

rc

 

[Wylie1]

Excuse me, I forgot to thank you folks for your replies, I was rushing myself earlier.

Since returning home I have been able to fit in a bit more research. This is an M98 large ring Mauser and it has no recess for the extractor. Pitting isn't terrible on the exterior (none on interior) and the exterior of the forward lug area looks very stable to me.

I also looked into parts briefly and a barrel isn't all that crazy priced. A F54 contour can be had for about $100 and the reviews are okay too.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/25...our-1-in-14-twist-24-chrome-moly-in-the-white
Not too crazy about the button bead rifling in a 22/250 though, maybe I need some schooling here too?

The stock looks to be maybe $250 for a full on aluminum bedding block type from Bell and Carlson which would be preferred. Fajen tupperware for under $100 as well as the Boyds thumbhole. Might have to verse myself on the Boyds again being the bull barrel would be my preference.
A Bold trigger with saftey around $40

Bolt handle work to allow for a scope, not sure yet and as well the saftey issues.

The tools! To be used once, this isn't looking so good anymore!
Barrel wrench
Action vise
Crown tool
Reciever facing tool, not even sure if it would fit in my little lathe.
Go gage
No-go Gage
Chamber finishing tool
Scope mount jig
What else have I missed? Any tool loan options here on this forum?

I do have a media blaster and a spray and bake rattle can on the way.

 

[Maj Dad]

Wylie, I can tell you're as excited as I was the first time I built a rifle on a Mauser action (mine was a 308-barrelled VZ-24). The one thing I would urge you to do before anything else is to take NCsmitty & rcmodel's advice and have your action checked by a knowledgeable gunsmith (magna-fluxing would be the thing to show defects, among other things). A cracked barrel, especially one off-axis of the action indicates that something close to catastrophic occurred and your action may let go the next time a round is touched off. I would not invest the time and money in an action that has a question mark hovering over it, especially an explosive one. Don't chance it - be safe and not maimed

 

[Wylie1]

Being the expense and the fact I have a lot of projects already I'm not bothering with this one. A Marlin X7vh in 22/250 and aftermarket stock would likely end up costing me less anyway.

 

[lefteyedom]

Building a Mauser custom rifle has not been a cost effective way to get a rifle for the last 40+ years.

It is still well worth the effort, if done correctly the end product is a thing of beauty. If done poorly it can be a eyesore at best and dangerous at worse.

I you just want a rifle that shoots well on a budget buy a use Savage 110 or one of the package deals that Savage/Stevens sells. The Axis will have you hunting for less than$400.

I hunt with Savages and am very happy with them.... But I have kept a 98 Mauser to build just for me.... Kind of like explaining why I still love the F106.......

 

[Wylie1]

I've had an offer on the action by someone who is far more adapt so I'm just going to sell it.