Wylie1
Member
The internet kinda makes me crazy with researching certain things and this rebarrel thought is going that direction.
I have a Spanish Mauser chambered in 30.06 with a cracked barrel right at the base of the barrel's threads.
Being I'm without a Varmit rifle or at least a rifle I'd be able to do pelts with so 220 Swift or 22/250 comes to mind.
What I have learned so far is I am likely better off with the 220 Swift than the 22/250 being the difference in action length as well as bolt face characteristics?
If memory serves me brass ejection with the Mauser is a trick being the chamber has to have a notch properly indexed for the extractor? This would likely be the hardest part of the rebarrel?
Would there be preliminary testing of the action I would be able to do myself in order to assure the action is true? This would be a fat chunk of change to throw into something that wouldn't shoot straight. As much as possible I'd like to illiminate the possibility of a very expensive boat oar!
As well suggestions on parts would be greatly valued!
I have a Spanish Mauser chambered in 30.06 with a cracked barrel right at the base of the barrel's threads.
Being I'm without a Varmit rifle or at least a rifle I'd be able to do pelts with so 220 Swift or 22/250 comes to mind.
What I have learned so far is I am likely better off with the 220 Swift than the 22/250 being the difference in action length as well as bolt face characteristics?
If memory serves me brass ejection with the Mauser is a trick being the chamber has to have a notch properly indexed for the extractor? This would likely be the hardest part of the rebarrel?
Would there be preliminary testing of the action I would be able to do myself in order to assure the action is true? This would be a fat chunk of change to throw into something that wouldn't shoot straight. As much as possible I'd like to illiminate the possibility of a very expensive boat oar!
As well suggestions on parts would be greatly valued!