pre 64 Model 70 rebarrel question?

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DANNY243

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A while ago I acquired a pre64 winchester model 70, re-bored and chambered to .257 wby from a .220 swift. For multiple reasons I want want to re-barrel it to a 7mm RM cambering. The gun is nice but its no collector piece, and I am not worried about damaging the "collector value". I want to shoot the gun but I don't want to throw a ton of money into it. A used barrel, new stock and good optics are all i have in mind.

So my problem is this; original pre64 barrels re-chambered to 7 mag are hard to find and custom barrels are out of my price range. On ebay, however, I am finding Winchester 70 Classic barrel 7mm/mag 26" stainless new take off barrels that say the will fit pre64 actions. Does anyone have any knowledge of weather the barrels will actually fit, threads match etc? I will attach some links.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rifle-barrel-Winchester-70-classic-7mm-mag-26-stainless-new-take-off-/321537488430?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4add20b62e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rifle-barrel-Winchester-70-classic-7mm-mag-26-stainless-new-take-off-/321531115122?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4adcbf7672

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Winchester-Model-70-Super-Grade-7mm-Rem-Magnum-Barrel-/121459883143?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4792bc87
 
I would ask this question in the gunsmithing section.

The thread pitch could be 16 or 28 TPI; not sure which.

The extractor cut may or may not work out. Head spacing would need to be done; maybe some minor fitting.

You may end up with more into it than you planned.
 
If the seller says the barrel will fit a pre-64, it is 1"-16 thread. The 28 thread has only been used the past few years so not that many have hit the take off market yet. You still have the problem of proper indexing and headspace to deal with. Even if you have to pay a smith to index and headspace, you will save the difference of the cost of a custom barrel over the take off, maybe $100 to $300. That is what you are gambling on whether the take off is good.
 
Thanks for the info guys, a couple follow up questions. I looked up the serial on my rifle and it puts it made in 1953, if that makes a difference. What is the thread count for that year and would there be any issues mounting a stainless barrel to that action?
 
ALL Model 54's and Model 70's made prior to 1964 used 1.00" x .740" shank length, 16V TPI barrels.

Cone breeched, with a .430 extractor cut on the right side to align after they were tightened to the receiver.

So, they will screw on.

That is not to say just Any barrel will tighten properly to Any Pre--64 receiver with the extractor cut aligned properly, and they head-space correct.

A newer barrel should screw on..
But, In the right stopping place or not?
Who knows?

They are not Lego Blocks, or AR-15's.

Rc
 
If you would change your thinking process to a 300 Win Mag you could probably find a pre 64 barrel at an acceptable price. A good gunsmith can remove enough metal to align the extractor cut and then adjust the headspace. Ask your gunsmith what he would charge before you buy the barrel.
 
IMHO ,This kind of rebarreling etc. is best left to a Gunsmith worthy of the name.
It's not merely a case of un-screwing a barrel and screwing another on.
Headspace issues are primary to say nothing of the subsequent stock fit.
Your rifle is/was rebored & rechambered from a .220 Swift?
 
With the stuff available today, I question just WHY anyone would go the re-boring,re-chambering re-anything routine.
This kind of gun work is costing you BIG bucks!
For WHAT??
 
For a firearm that fits the shooter in the caliber he likes. I could see that - I can't shoot my dad's pre-'64 30-06 - the fit is totally different than my pre-'64 .308. Hard to explain, but once you have an action you like, and a firearm that fits the shooter right, changing calibers is *almost* worth it. (and if I got it and IF it fit me I'd make it a .308... nothing like a spare!)

I could go out and get an AR-10 (and have thoght about it), but it doesn't feel as natural (to me) as the model 70. An M1A is closer (and yes, that's still a consideraton on the back burner), but it's still not the same. So yeah... if the OP has a ton of money to throw at it, and the rifle fits him to a tee, knowing what he's gonna get out of it, for a caliber he obviously likes, why not?

After all... it's his money. Soon to be his 'smith's money! :D
 
In following this conversation what some people don't understand is how close the tolerances were on pre 64 Model 70 parts. The magazine box for the rifle in this thread is the standard 30-06 length box. When changing his barrel to another pre 64 Model 70 barrel the consideration is to make sure the standard length box will work. The reason I suggested a 300 Win Mag is that it's maximum cartridge length is 3.340. Model 70 barrels from another standard rifle will fit correctly into the barrel channel even if the gunsmith has to take a turn on the barrel to align the extractor cut. It's not that expensive to change the barrel on a pre 64 Model 70 if a similar barrel for a different cartridge is installed.
 
I ended up trading for a ruger m77 tang safety 7mmRM at a gun show. I know I gave up some value on the trade, but honestly, not that much. I ended up with the caliber I want on a gun that I like with no out of pocket expense. I can't wait to shoot it, hopefully it groups decent with factory ammo and I can work up some sub moa loads when I collect enough brass.

Btw, anyone know if 7mmRM brass can be formed from .257 wby brass. I think there is like a .001 difference in head diameter and I don't remember if the oal will work.
 
The head diameters are the same but I have had problems reforming the Weatherby double radius shoulder without wrinkling. 257 brass is worth more than 7mm RM brass so I would sell or do some trading.
 
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