Prefered Crimping

[Highland Lofts]

We were talking about crimping on another thread and Didn't want to hijack that thread so I started this thead.
On the 38spl, 357mag, 44spl & 44mag
Do you prefer taper crimp or roll crimp.
When I got back into reloading I was putting to much flare on the cases and to much roll crimp which resulted in short case life, necks spliting.

On the other thread they were talking about taper crimping 38spl.

I think the taper crimp would add longer life to your cases.

What are your views on crimping?

Also what all calibers do you guys crimp and what type of crimp do you prefer.

 

[edwardware]

Taper crimp is designed for cases that headspace on the mouth. A roll crimp would spoil headspacing.

Rimmed cases that headspace on the rim could utilize either taper or roll, but Magnum powders generally benefit from heavy roll crimps. Taper crimping would not substitute.

If you don't need a crimp for combustion pressure, then just enough of either crimp to un-flare the mouth is enough.

 

[jmorris]

I prefer roll for heavy recoiling revolvers and bullets with a cannelure.

The remedy for wearing out the case is to not flare and crimp too much, just enough, in both directions.

 

[Obturation]

I'm an official member of the death crimp society. I know it's not necessary but it makes me feel good, case life be damned, I don't care unless I'm changing bullet dimensions - that's where I draw the line. I don't taper crimp anything, because I don't reload for bottom feeders.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I about choked on my coke, never heard of 9mm, 38 Super, 40 cal. & 45acp called Bottom feeders before.
That was a good one.

 

[gotboostvr]

If I'm using light charges of fast burning pistol powder and plated bullets, it gets a very light taper crimp.

Heavy charges of slow burning magnum powders with lead bullets, or jacketed bullets with a cannelure get a roll crimp.

 

[AJC1]

All three will work well with a roll crimp. The 38 does not need the heavy crimp that the others benifit from so if your dies for 38 have a taper crimp use that. In the case of trying to seat and crimp in the same die at the same time in 38 only taper crimp will give you a lot less problems. In the magnums I always separate the seating and roll crimp.

 

[LiveLife]

I'm an official member of the death crimp society ... I don't taper crimp anything, because I don't reload for bottom feeders.

What? And I like your posts ...

One of these days, I need to get a revolver and lever action so I could roll crimp.

You know, all lives matter, even us bottom feeder lives ...

OK, enough of thread hijack ... Carry on.

 

[cfullgraf]

I only crimp handgun cartridges these days.

I do not shoot much full power magnum loads any more and I have begun taper crimping those cartridges (357 Magnum, 44 Magnum, etc) It is easier on the case mouth to just remove the flare. I load target to near full power of the equivalent "Special" level for most of my shooting these days.

Full power rounds get a roll crimp if the bullet has a cannelure, which the bullets I use usually do.

Semi-auto pistol rounds get a taper crimp.

 

[gonoles_1980]

I roll crimp on the 38spl and 357, I use a taper crimp when I'm using copper plated bullets.

 

[mdi]

Basic Crimping 101 for newer reloaders; a roll crimp is used mainly on revolver rounds when bullets have a cannalure or crimp groove. Taper crimps are used on semi-auto ammo that normally head spaces on the case mouth using smooth sided bullets. Semi-auto ammo is not crimped to hold bullets in place as neck tension accomplishes that, taper crimping dies are used to remove flare to insure good chambering. Of course there may be exceptions and "personal methods" which can be anything. Some use either crimp on both types, but the basics are roll crimp = revolver ammo, taper crimp = semi-auto ammo...

Case life being shortened by over crimping is easily fixed, use as little crimp as necessary to get the needed results. I have 357 and 44 Magnum that was used with heavy loads heavily crimped, and yes the case life may have been shorter, but not appreciably more (heavy crimped rounds maybe 15-20 reloadings, light crimps maybe 20-30 reloadings although my cases have lasted much longer).

 

[.38 Special]

I roll crimp exclusively for revolver cartridges. Lots of crimp for heavy magnums, tiny little crimp for target loads. I have some 20 year old .38 Special brass that has been loaded dozens of times and still works fine - used exclusively with 148 WC/2.7 Bullseye, with just enough belling to admit the bullets and just enough crimp to hold them into place.

 

[Walkalong]

think the taper crimp would add longer life to your cases.

I think it is mostly a non factor if not over done.

I roll crimp lead and coated lead with a proper crimp groove, and jacketed with a good cannelure. I taper crimp plated bullets in multiple calibers, although coated lead is replacing some of this. I lightly taper crimp lead, coated lead, and plated WCs.

 

[375supermag]

Hi...
Firm roll crimp on revolver cases. Never experienced any crimp jumping even with near book maximum loads, jacketed or cast.
I have no issues with case failure due to splits. I lose very few cases that way.
I taper crimp auto loading handgun cases.

I am probably doing it all wrong...but it's worked for nearly forty years. Maybe I just don't have enough experience yet.

 

[buck460XVR]

I think the taper crimp would add longer life to your cases.

I think it is mostly a non factor if not over done.

I'm in Walkalong's camp. Unless one is excessively flaring and crimping, I don't see a big difference. One needs to flare with a taper crimp too and even tho you aren't rolling the crimp, you are still reworking the brass when you taper crimp. Magnum revolvers with heavy or hunting type loads needs a firm roll crimp. Period. If you load for them, you know why. If your brass wears out a loading or two sooner, it's just the cost of doing business.

 

[Spade5]

I use the Redding profile crimp for 357. It seems to be a modified taper with a micro adjustment. Can use it with a cannelure. Not cheap but seems well made.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Case mouths split because the brass is overworked -- it's called "work hardening." Annealing helps prevent case mouth splits -- get a votive candle (Walmart sells them) and hold the case by the rim while rolling the mouth in the flame. When heat reaches the rim and the case gets hot enough that it's uncomfortable, set it aside and pick up another one. The cases will last much longer if you do this periodically.

 

[lordpaxman]

I don't taper crimp anything, because I don't reload for bottom feeders.

LOL! So..... I’m in with the deplorables?

.38, light roll crimp. .357 medium roll crimp. .460 heavy roll crimp. I can’t tell you specific dimensions because I didn’t measure them, but it’s enough to prevent bullet movement. Good luck!

 

[entropy]

I always roll crimp straight wall cases for revolvers. The amount varies with the caliber and load. Were I to load straight walled cases for autos, (S&W 52 or Coonan .357) I'd maybe consider a taper crimp. Alas, I probably will never own either.

 

[murf]

I was putting to much flare on the cases and to much roll crimp

flare expands the case mouth beyond the normal diameter thus thinning the case wall. crimping contracts the case mouth to a smaller diameter thus thickening the case wall. too much flare will thin the case wall and with enough repetition crack the wall. i don't think crimping will ever crack the case since the wall is thickened not thinned.

so heavy crimps and lots of neck tension for slow burning powders and light crimps and very little neck tension for fast burning powders. my bluedot (slow powder) 357 magnum load gets .004" neck tension and a heavy crimp. my bullseye (fast powder) 38 special load gets .001" neck tension and enough crimp to take out the flare.

also, my flare on all handgun loads is just enough to seat the bullet straight. the only cartridge that gets a lot of flare is the 380 auto. seating bullets in that dinky case is a pita if you don't have enough flare.

luck,

murf

 

[Bfh_auto]

I roll crimp. Light for 38s. Heavy for 357.
I also seat and crimp in the same step.
If you use cast. The crimp groove allows you to do this if you're careful about your setup.

 

[Blue68f100]

I let the bullet make the decision for me. If it has a grove for the crimp I roll crimp. If not a taper crimp is used. This is also defined by the load. A hard hitting magnum loaded to such requires a roll crimp. A light target load may only require a TC.

 

[Obturation]

LOL! So..... I’m in with the deplorables?

Well at least you said it instead of me!

 

[Kevin Keith]

I load hard cast Keith "style" bullets for .45 Colt, .44 Special and mag, .357 and .38 Special, and go with a good roll crimp.