Pretty impressed with CLP

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Fremmer

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I've always used hoppe's no 9 to clean and followed with oil, but I had to buy CLP at the range because that's what they had.

I used it tonight to clean the sig and it worked just fine with getting the crud off the gun, and it seems to leave a nice layer of protectant behind.

Not bad stuff!!!
 
Agreed on it's cleaning ability, but not its lubrication abilities. We get it for free in the military, and I never use it on my weapon.

For dry, dusty climates, you just can't beat militec. If I want a good wet lube for actions that like it, or for protection in more humid / damp environments, I just carry some 5w-20 mobil one full synthetic in a little squeeze bottle.
 
The military CLP is not the same formulation as what you get in gun shops. The civilian stuff is much better.
 
Oils, greases, dry lubes, cleaners, penetrating oils, and rust preventors all have their place. In my opinion, unless you are going into an extreme environment, where exposure to salt spray or lots of fine desert dust is a problem, just about anything that seems suitable will probably work perfectly.

In my own experience, 90% of my needs are met by plain old Hoppes gun oil, for both lubrication and rust prevention. Synthetic motor oil is also a very fine lubricant, as you'd expect, and just about any good automotive grease will be a fine firearms grease as well. Ballistol is a cleaner that can be used with water, and is great for black powder guns, and for cleaning up after corrosive ammo. It's also very non-toxic and rated for use on food-processing machinery. Eezox is a splendid rust preventor. Kroil is great for soaking crud out of hard to reach places, and RemOil is good dry lube for hosing them down afterwards. I used CLP for a while, too, and it did everything I've asked of it as well.

The only product I hold in particular esteem is Ballistol, because it's non-toxic and it can be used on everything, including leather and wood.
 
I use different things for different firearms.
FN FAL bolt, Garands and caming surfaces on the bolt guns get grease

Pistols get Mobil One Synthetic heavy weight oil. I have used it down to 10 below, it works and is cheap.

AR's get CLP, but I have started leaning to Gunzilla.

For cleaning I like Butch's Bore Shine (even though I hate the smell)
Shooter's Choice for the copper
Hoppies number 9 for a slow creeping clean
Follow up the bore with Gunzilla and leave it.

After shooting corrosive ammo, I use a mixture of Murphy's, Peroxide and alcohol. I then follow with the above mentioned products.
 
I love it. It works great, and works well even in the cold weather we get in VT (unlike Weaponshield).

Simple Green to clean (cleans CLP off too), and CLP to lubricate and protect. It also keeps the grit in suspension, so you can just wipe off the excess CLP and grit.
 
Lol I'm trying to avoid a 2 step process, think I should still follow the CLP with oil?!?
 
I've used Hoppes on civilian guns my whole life, but used CLP in the military... what's the civilian equivalent? Does it have a brand name? Is it the same stuff, really? Because I might be tempted...
 
I have a small aerosol can of CLP that just keeps on going, and I like it for blasting crud out of tight spaces. I like Hoppes as well. On occasion I still use the old 3-in-1 oil if it seems appropriate. Lots of useful stuff out there.
 
Since we are on the subject of Hoppes #9 :)

Anyone out there have "Hoppes dreams" after an extended cleaning session inhaling all that stuff?

I know I have!
 
In past discussions, CLP has been a favorite product by many here including myself.
 
CLP was good enough for our machine guns, m-16 rifles. I use a solvent to deep clean occasionally. We always cleaned 3 days in a row after shooting. Each day the CLP would sweat out more carbon. Motor oil attracts dirt and cakes in the actions.
 
As much as I am a fan of CLP, pretty much anything different from what you usually use it going to get some sort of dirt the other leaves behind.
 
I like CLP for 90% of cleaning stuff.. my wife likes it better than Hoppes #9 because it doesn't smell crazy strong and give her a headache.

I've found that 80w90 diff fluid works really well for wiping on the surface of my 1911 to protect the finish... it rubs into the metal and requires minimal effort to buff off the excess. Most people hate the smell, doesn't bother me as I'm a mechanic and regear stuff on the side, I'm pretty immune to it. The surface stays "oily" for a pretty considerable amount of time compared to all the lighter oils that are normally marketed for firearm use.

And I'll use Mobil 1 5w30 motor oil for general lube purposes if I have the time to do so, but the CLP has made me lazy. I'll generally just put the motor oil on slide/frame rails.


I have a bottle of the Hoppes gun lube... but I honestly just bought it for the bottle... it's a pain pouring motor oil from it's original container. :neener:
 
I stole a gallon of the stuff when I first left the army and I used it for years for everything. I still keep some around, I find it lubes pretty well, it cleans ok, and I really don't know how well it preserves, because I have never just packed a gun in the stuff and let it sit for years. I honestly prefer grease, Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic, for lube, and Hoppe's if I need a specific solvent.
 
I've been using CLP exclusively on my Ruger 1-H .405 since it is new and my version of Ed's Red would likely remove the finish from the stock. It seems to work pretty well for its intended porpoise.
 
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