Primer Making Die

from what I am reading, it takes an arbor press, but they are cheap and good to have on the loading bench

it says to reuse the anvils which seems easy enough, although a little tedious

also, I am wondering if it could be used to knock the dent out of used primers

Inquiring minds want to know!
 
"They did bump the firing pin dent out of the primer case."

had an email conversation with Bill at the Recoilstore.com. Nice guy.

He said "during the plandemic people were buying Prime-All to rebuild their primers. They were knocking the dents out and sending freedom seeds downrange. My business partner put his redneck engineering brain to work and developed the primer die and a new centerfire prime all"

I also asked him about knocking the dent out. He said it depended on the primer and the wall thickness. It would be hit or miss.

He also told me that if anyone had any questions to email him at [email protected]
 
A year and a half ago, I jumped in to the primer reloading game.

I went down the non-corrosive EPH-20 / EPH-25 path as promoted at the aardvark site.

The process is tedious and some techniques are still something of a work in progress.

I would guess 90% of what I have shot in the last year has been using reloaded primers. Many thousands fired.

If I had not gone down this path, I probably would have spent I am guessing $500 more on primers than I spent on tools & consumables for primer reloading. Consumables cost per round is just so cheap (less than $0.50 per hundred for SPP/SRP), it is well worth the effort for this retired guy.

I have no real interest in making my own cups at this point (for me, harvesting & reconditioning fired primers is not a big deal). However, I like knowing that I could if I wanted to.
 
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Anvil Jenkins said:
has anyone tried this?

I am a prepper at heart and this seems like a good thing to have on hand
Click to expand...

I do have a few recipes (formulas) but have not had enough free time to play with any. A punch and sander will iron the dent out. Having primers, seems like a better idea to me than having a bunch of other stuff to make them with.
 
It's a useful skill, but I can't imagine doing many in bulk (too time consuming and tedious), so I prefer simply to keep stocking up on new primers.
 
"I did use the Prime All to learn how to make percussion caps yesterday"

there is a Prime-All with liquid binder now

I shop at the Recoilstore.com, better prices than sharpshooter
 
I have about 1K Small cups and 1K Large cups that I disassembled the anvils and punched out the firing pin dent during the Pandemic. I like to plan for when the SHTF, if ever. I have a kit set up for my adult kids, just in case. I have copied many reloading instructions and how to assemble these cups for both rifle and Pistol. I used a punch made to the inside primer cup specs and removed the firing pin dent completely. Just like to be prepared, don't have to make my own cups!!!
 
I like the idea and am retired also but I don't seem to have any free time, between my better half, daughters, grandkids, mother, close friends, dog, etc all my free time is taken and I still have a couple of filing cabinet drawers full of factory primers
 
I can’t imagine the caustic chemical exposure and debris in the work bench area of this process by handling the spent primers.

I’d like to see some details on how that’s mitigated.
 
When you are removing anvils, there will be some debris. Not much worse than the debris that results from de-priming brass. Keeping the workspace clean is not really a challenge as long as you follow general "good cleanliness practices".

Other hazards do exist. Many of the primer reloading methods do involve working with stuff that needs significant care and attention. Typically you work in very small batches so that when you are working with a "contact sensitive" mix, you limit your risk if something goes wrong.

Along with being non-corrosive, the EPH-20 & EPH25 stuff is probably the least risk. Of all the raw ingredients being worked with, finely ground smokeless powder (used as a booster) is the most likely to cause a problem and that is just a "flash" risk. After you have mixed all of the ingredients together you fill a cup, pack it down and then add water to wet the mix. After the mix is wet it will harden (similar process to cement) and then dry. EPH-20 & EPH-25 do not become contact sensitive until it dry.
 
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Very interesting and relatively inexpensive, but clearly labor intensive. Still, in case of TEOTWAWKI... Is the Prime-All centerfire compound corrosive?



I'm unable to find info on the EPH 25 priming compound.
P Flados said:
I went down the non-corrosive EPH-20 / EPH-25 path as promoted at the aardvark site.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
sparkyv said:
Very interesting and relatively inexpensive, but clearly labor intensive. Still, in case of TEOTWAWKI... Is the Prime-All centerfire compound corrosive?



I'm unable to find info on the EPH 25 priming compound.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I get kinda edgy thinking about REM concerts, too. I mean, people listen to that stuff!?!
 
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