Primers Damaged When Breaking Down Cartridges Using Hammer

CQB45ACP

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Albeit not real well, picture shows primer compound residue in several compartments of ammo box.

Have you ever experienced this? Would it concern you?

I'm thinking as long as they go boom, who cares. Right?

Not that it's easy to do, but beyond the residue, the primers in the primed cases don't reveal any damage. Unfortunately I didn't examine each one as I removed from box. Rather, only after all were removed and I saw the residue so I can't say which case left which residue.

This results from yesterday's breaking down 45acp rounds using an inertia hammer. One or two whacks is all I used and I doubt my hammer blows are much different than anyone else's. (I of course have no way to confirm that but I've never broken my hammer after 5 years.)

I guess also there is some residue in the powder I salvaged from each case. It likely sifts to the bottom of container and isn't actually mixed with powder (he speculates hopefully).

IMG_4536.jpeg
 
It has been my experience that the surface impacted makes more of a difference than the swing to it.



That would be my take.
That would be some painful test. Hammering over and over again on different surfaces. (Indoors I use concrete floor with very thin carpet layer out door piece of firewood standing on end.)

Now you could build an arm swinging machine....
 
(Indoors I use concrete floor with very thin carpet layer out door piece of firewood standing on end.).
Your indoor method will produce holes in your carpet, bring a block of wood inside.

That said, I’ve never had an issue in over 20+ yrs of reloading, and I had a Lee progressive for a while so I’ve done a fair share of whacking😆
 
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/inertia-bullet-puller-mishap.3847327/
I always thought a kaboom was possible. Never used one.

This morning while pulling bullets from some .223 rounds with an inertia bullet puller (hammer type), I had a primer ignite. The primer fortunately did not ignite the powder charge but was ejected from the cartridge/puller with sufficient force to deflect off of the ceiling and strike the far side of my garage area 20 feet away.

Lesson: even though remote, it can happen, and I will be converting to a different method of pulling live rounds.
 
I once pulled a bit over 400 40S&W due to a double change fear (double charges are unpleasant). After break them all down to ensure I had no remaining double charges I reloaded all the cases and reused all the powder and did not have a single malfunction with the re-reloaded ammunition.

I found a good piece of 3/4 plywood with a piece of full grain leather stapled to it pads things just enough to make the hammer last a long time. I have not broke a hammer but I did shatter a couple of the nuts using harder surfaces. I have a 4x4 chunk I use for more stubborn bullets usually of a smaller caliber that need a bit more oomph to get them out.
 
I’ve used a wooden section of stump about 10” in diameter for years. Found a block of oak about 4” thick by 10” square that I’ll use from now on. I’ve never had any problem reusing primed brass from factory loads or my own reloads. If you’re worried, load them as practice loads and use them at the range. But they’ll probably be fine.
 
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She'd know. Some how she'd know.
Women always know. Not sure how they know, but they do.

The primary question here was whether anyone else had experienced the same issue and so far looks like answer is no.
I've never had a problem pulling them with the hammer, but I've only had to pull maybe 30 in five or so years.

I did pull one in front of my uncle. He asked if that was safe. I said I hadn't had a problem yet, that's when he stood up and moved a few feet away. :rofl:

chris
 
I’ve used a wooden section of stump about 10” in diameter for years. Found a block of oak about 4” thick by 10” square that I’ll use from now on. I’ve never had any problem reusing primed brass from factory loads or my own reloads. If you’re worried, load them as practice loads and use them at the range. But they’ll probably be fine.
I use a 55 # anvil from HF. Very hard and you can use lighter blows with the hammer. Never had a primer problem as you described but have found some LP primers with no anvil on the floor. Set them off on the anvil with a ballpeen after telling the better half of my intentions.
 
I use a 55 # anvil from HF. Very hard and you can use lighter blows with the hammer. Never had a primer problem as you described but have found some LP primers with no anvil on the floor. Set them off on the anvil with a ballpeen after telling the better half of my intentions.
Now that's interesting--both using an anvil and finding anvilless primers (no pun intended). Doesn't hammer really bounce off anvil?
 
I use a 55 # anvil from HF. Very hard and you can use lighter blows with the hammer. Never had a primer problem as you described but have found some LP primers with no anvil on the floor. Set them off on the anvil with a ballpeen after telling the better half of my intentions.

The only reason I went to a wooden block is that hard surfaces were completely mangling my impact puller. But even cycling through a semiautomatic isn’t gentle on a loaded cartridge, so a couple normal taps on an impact puller shouldn’t be much worse.
 
Interesting. Broken hammer results from being bull headed and breaking down crimped 55gr .223. Been there done that. Everything else I load works fine. Sit on basement stairs and whack on cement floor. This hammer has 2013 on it. You can sure tell the different neck tension on 308's
 
I won't use a kinetic hammer any more. I bought this and use this.
shell plate extension 2.jpg Your looking at the shell holder extention. My 327FM round is sitting on it ready for the bullet to be pulled. See the wire cutters sitting beside the press? That's what I grab the bullet with.

wire cutters.jpg It leaves a mark on the bullets but not much of one.
I paid $8.00 for the shell holder extension from Midway USA.
The wire cutters I already had. You can use wire strippers also if you want. They will leave 4 small marks on the bullet that doesn't hurt them in my opinion.

I hate kinetic hammers, they ruin more bullets than they save as far as I'm concerned. Mine has the foam in the bottom, but the lead bullet still bounces back up and the bottom of the bullet hits the mouth of the case and defaces it.

You pull them how you want but this is how I do it. It's effortless and non-impact.
 
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I won't use a kinetic hammer any more. I bought this and use this.
View attachment 1197378 Your looking at the shell holder extention. My 327FM round is sitting on it ready for the bullet to be pulled. See the wire cutters sitting beside the press? That's what I grab the bullet with.

View attachment 1197379 It leaves a mark on the bullets but not much of one.
I paid $8.00 for the shell holder extension from Midway USA.
The wire cutters I already had. You can use wire strippers also if you want. They will leave 4 small marks on the bullet that doesn't hurt them in my opinion.

I hate kinetic hammers, they ruin more bullets than they save as far as I'm concerned. Mine has the foam in the bottom, but the lead bullet still bounces back up and the bottom of the bullet hits the bottom of the collet and defaces it.

You pull them how you want but this is how I do it. It's effortless and non-impact.
Well I ground a pair of side cutters and do the same as you on .223 crimped ammo. But on others i use the hammer. A foam ear plug protects lead tipped 30 cal. and such. The collet holds the case head so the bullet can't bounce up and hit anything but the open hole in the brass. Perfect , save bullet ,powder and neck size brass with decap tip ground off. Start over.
 
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