Problem with S&W M18

[tech]

Well to make a long story short it went to the smith to straighten out the cylinder crane and get a trigger job now 1 out of 6 cylinders fails to fire consistantly(not the same one). Short of taking it back to said smith who supposedly test fired it what can I do?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Old Fuff]

First, (pardon the pun) try a long shot and test fire the revolver with some different brands of ammunition. If this isn’t the answer unload the cylinder, hold the gun up to the light, and cock and lower the hammer while watching to see if the cylinder wobbles. I suspect the yoke may be misaligned enough to cause a problem. Also be sure the firing pin isn’t chipped or broken. If none of these things work I’d consider sending it back to S&W.

 

[Jim Watson]

Tighten the strain screw if backed out.
Replace the strain screw if cut off. (Put a primer cup under the tip for a temporary shim to increase tension while the new one is on the way.)
If strain screw is at max, put in a stock mainspring.

Rimfires require a harder hit to ignite than centerfires, you can't reduce spring tension or strength like you can with a .38.

If a full power mainspring with strain screw all the way down still misfires, you need the factory or a real gunsmith. Either that guy shortened the hammer throw or the gun has excess headspace or end shake cushioning the hammer fall.
I have seen all of the above cause misfires.

 

[Old Fuff]

Another thought: If your "smith" changed the mainspring (or modified it) that could cause a problem. Or if he shortened the mainspring strain screw or left it turned out a bit. Rim-fire cartridges require a harder hammer/firing pin impact then center- fire rounds. That would account for misfires on different chambers.

 

[tech]

What a great Forum. Thanks guys, I am glad I asked. I figured he cut the hammer spring or something but I will check the items you mentioned and see how it works out.

Thanks again,
Mike

 

[BigG]

... get a trigger job...

The beginning of woes. Many a good gun has been fixed until it was broke.

 

[tech]

Big G, the trigger was inconsistant and problematic(real hard to pull on one shot then super easy the next) as it was so it was not like I was searching for some kind mystical perfection. It could have been because of the problem with the cylinder but I was unsure and wanted a trigger comparable to my M-17. I have tried the same three brands of ammo I had no problem with before the smith worked on it and all three will have at least one failure per cylinder. You know I researched the smith before using him and other than some comments on attitude all I heard was good things about his work. Well I have learned my lesson all my pistols will go to Teddy Jacobson from now on, costs me more but when they are done, they are done right.

Mike

 

[BigG]

No offense, Tech. It mystifies me how many guys buy a brand new gun and the first thing they do is turn it in for a trigger job. I wouldn't buy a factory gun with a %$%^* trigger, but I guess some people do.

 

[tech]

Big G, no sweat, none taken. I also try not to sink any un-needed $ into anything. I just hope I can get this thing running ok without sending it off.

 

[BigG]

One idea I have is that if the gun is used it may have been opened up and "lubricated" with some substance that has hardened into rocklike consistency. That would explain a rough inconsistent trigger pull also. Weird things happen. Hope ya get it fixed to your satisfaction, bud!

 

[tech]

Thanks Big G, I got the pistol used (looked NIB when I got it) at a good price..... The problem mentioned might have led to the good price. It is the first internet purchase that I have had a problem with so I can't complain too much. I am going to look at all the suggestions given hopefully one will fix the problem.

Thanks again everyone for all the help.
Mike

 

[Old Fuff]

If you still have the on-again/off-again hard trigger pull swing put the cylinder, hold back the thumbpiece and cock the hammer several times. If the hard pull has gone away you probably have a problem with the cylinder's rotation or a bind between the hand and cylinder ratchet. I might also be the front face of the cylinder sometimes rubbing on the barrel.

Since you bought the gun used I'd have someone who knows what he's doing (which might be you) pop the sideplate and look at the lockwork. A previous owner(s) might have done some home gunsmithing. I prefer to buy good used guns, but I always detail strip what ever I get as soon as possible to be sure something isn't what it should be. Never have anyone work on a gun until you've done this. Otherwise you have no way of knowing if the problem or condition pre-dated the work you had done.

 

[tech]

Old Fluff, The trigger is now smooth all the way around. The problem now is light strikes. I figured he did something with the hammer spring. I need to index the cylinder the next time I shoot and see if its the same chamber I am having a problem with. I am going to try to find time this weekend to get it apart and look at it.

Thanks,
Mike