Proper care for an old Colt 1877

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hendryjl

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I was hedging between posting this in the Revolver forum or this one, but landed here. Hopefully it was the right call.

A neighbor was speaking with me and mentioned they had an old revolver in their basement sitting and thought it was from the late 1800's. I told them if that was true, they should hand it over to me, and I'd enjoy doing the research on it for them, cleaning it up, and giving them the scoop on it. While I own a lot of firearms, I've just never had an affection for revolvers, so I was anxious to learn a little something new.

Well, based on my searching and reading around, I at least know what I have. I've got a Colt 1877 41 (Thunderer) with the 3.5" barrel (which I've seen called a shopkeeper configuration) from the early production years (serial 17xxx). I've read all about the history of this finicky little DA. This one is still operating well in full DA and the timing seems to be solid. It's full matching numbers down the frame. It has the early ejector rod configuration and the non-swinging cylinder. It has a nickel plate finish in what I would call 95% state based on the other similar pistols I've seen. It has black hard rubber grips with the horse emblem that show some light wear.

If I've gotten any of the terminology wrong, forgive me... like I said, revolvers are new territory for me, let alone antique ones. Always been a semi-auto DA/SA pistol and high power semi-auto rifle guy (my M1A being my favorite piece).

If they ask, I'm going to GUESS this is worth somewhere in the $1200-1500 range. I'm going to tell them about the fact that they can get that official "Colt Archives" document from Colt Archive Services done on it if they really want to, but I guess that's only if $100 seems worth it to them.

So, that's what I "think" I know. Here's what I don't know, finally I ask my questions... :)

1) I see many reference documents on the disassembly and assembly of the entire mechanics of the pistol. Given it's age, the complexity (fragility) of the mechanisms, and the fact that it's fully working, I think I should leave this thing as intact as possible when cleaning it. Have I got that right?

2) Assuming I have that right, my plan is to remove the grips, the cylinder, and the ejector tool and stop. I will then clean the surfaces I can get to with my normal gun cleaning supplies. Does that sound like the right plan?

3) What is the best product/practice to use on the finished surfaces to ensure I don't make the nickel plating failures any worse?

4) Should I keep the oils away from the rubber grips? What is the best way to clean (read more as protect) those?

Once I have it clean, my plan is to get a nice locking display case for it so they can keep it somewhere that a fine piece like this deserves to be... where it can be seen!

Thanks in advance for any advice on the cleanup! It's been a blast working with this revolver up until now, and I just want to make sure I'm doing the right things to care for it.

-Jim
 
I am happy to see you take a good, careful approach and not just attack every screw in sight like so many folks do. And I agree in not messing with the mechanism as more of those guns have been ruined by clumsy disassembly than by wear and tear. But you have heard right about those guns; they are delicate and broken springs are common. They are also very complex and not easily understood. As you have seen, they just don't work like modern revolvers. For one thing, the cylinder stop notches are on the rear of the cylinder, and the cylinder stop is a fragile and easily broken part.

I am not sure what you mean by the "ejector rod" or "ejector tool"; that barrel length doesn't have an ejector rod or ejector rod housing. If you mean the cylinder base pin, sure, go ahead and remove it. It just pulls out when the catch is pushed in from the left side. Note that the base pin can be inserted in only one way. Don't remove the base pin catch. With the base pin out, open the loading gate, put the hammer at half cock, and the cylinder will come out to the right. Half cocking the hammer is necessary to retract the cylinder stop, otherwise it can be damaged in trying to remove the cylinder. Don't try to remove the loading gate.

For cleaning, I suggest G96 Gun Treatment, which is a cleaner/preserver/penetrant and won't hurt the nickel finish or the gutta percha (hard rubber) grips, but see below about cleaning them.

Be careful with the grips; if they stick, don't pry. Gutta percha is a natural material, and molds like plastic, but it becomes extremely brittle with age and you don't want to crack the grips. (Yes, replacements are available, but originals are always better.)
They can be cleaned with ordinary soap and water and a toothbrush.

HTH

Jim
 
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