Question about Nickled Handgun Cases

[9mmepiphany]

The other thread about the use of nickel plated cases brought up old questions and I thought I'd start a new thread rather than derail that one.

I have a lot of .38/.357 nickel plated cases which I've saved over time. I have also picked up a lot of .40 nickel plated cases...enough to actually start loading the caliber.

Two questions, one of functionality and another on case prep.

1. I know they are slicker, but are they slick enough to make ejecting fired cases from a revolver more reliable?

2. Is there a danger of the nickel peeling when cleaning the cases in a wet tumbler with Lemi-shine, liquid detergent/wax, and stainless steel pins

Thanks for sharing any experience you have with these

 

[Robert101]

#1 I say no. If the brass is within its structural limit (expansion for which it was designed) and you follow load data, the case will not distort abnormally, therefore extraction will be fine regardless of brass or plating. I do find the plating easier to clean.
As to #2, I don't know as I use walnut for cleaning medium and don't wet tumble.

I don't separate nickel plated cases from brass cases anymore. I just clean, reload, and shoot. I find the plating will wear off at times but doesn't affect anything in either revolver or pistol shooting.

 

[Rule3]

Nickel plating was used to prevent tarnish while in a leather cartridge belt.

I doubt there is any difference in ejecting them, They do seem to stay cleaner though.

To much acid (lemi shine) may/will discolor it, As with nickeled guns once it gets chipped or dinged it will start to peel. If you clean them with regular brass in a acid solution I do not know if dissimilar metals will cause electrolysis?

 

[243winxb]

1.The nickel case may not spring back, after firing, as much as brass. In a 357 mag. with nickel loaded many times, extraction is very hard from little to no spring back with 13gr of 2400 and 158 cast. Still a problem when reduced to 12grs. Unknow how may firings. The sized nickel is the same measurments as brass before firing.
2. Had some Rem that peeled, using an old NRA mix of salt, vinegar, detergent and water.

 

[Walkalong]

I have never had any peeling of nickle cases, included those that have been trimmed, but folks who have done this much longer than I have report it was occasionally a problem with cases many years ago.

I use it for easy identification in some applications. I like to use it for ammo I load and expect to keep around long term. Primarily for cosmetic purposes, plus maybe it does feed/eject better.

Is it slicker? Yes. Will it really feed and eject better? Enough to matter? Dunno, but the ammo makers have used that as a selling point on premium ammo.

I haven't yet used my wet tumbler setup, so it has all been tumbling in corncob.

 

[ColtPythonElite]

I have nickel 38/357 cases that are 40 years old still in use. I have never seen peeling.

If your reloaded brass is hard to eject after firing, I would be looking for over pressure issues.

 

[Analogkid]

When I Wet tumble with ss pins dawn and lemi shine it dulls the finish on Nickle plated brass.

That's with the bare minimum of dawn and lemi shine.

I don't wet tumble those anymore. I run them in the vibratory tumbler with cob media.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Allow me to clarify the ejection issue I'm having.

I'm shooting a revolver in IDPA. The revolver I'm shooting is a 2.5" S&W M-66. Those who are familiar with the snubby M-66 know that the ejector rod isn't quite long enough to completely clear the fired cases from the cylinder if it is pushed slowly to the rear. When activated sharply the ejector rod will "usually" eject the cases.

Every now and then, after a few rounds have been cycled through the cylinder, one or two cases will hang up just short of clearing the cylinder.

My IDPA loads are a 158gr plated bullet loaded (4.7grs BE-86) to just over 725fps (115PF; 105 is required)

These loads aren't over pressured, but I have considered trying a faster powder for a cleaner burn

 

[Bama Drifter]

I bought a sackful of "once fired" nickel .357 cases from my reloading supply shop 4 yrs ago. Have mainly used them for light SASS loads (5.8-6.0 gr Unique pushing 158 gr LRNFP) and like the ability to quickly spot my empties on the ground and at unload/safety check table. Running the Lyman treated corn cob media has turned out gorgeous casings time after time.

The only attrition thus far has been OLD cases headstamped S&W, W-W Super X, and the malady is generally cracked mouth. Only 5-6 cases out of a hundred have split and they were ancient. Just my $0.02

 

[9mmepiphany]

I have to agree that the nickel cases really come out shinny when tumbled in corncob with just a bit of Nu-Finish added.

I may have to load up some and try it in a match to see if it makes ejection any more reliable. I only have a couple of thousand cases, as oppose to 8-10k brass, but if it only prevents a couple of hangups during stages it might be worth trying

 

[Jim Watson]

Service life of nickel plated .38 brass is shorter. If I find a split case, it is most likely plated.

Easy extraction? I dunno. SHOOT THE GUN.

 

[shootniron]

I have nickel 38/357 cases that are 40 years old still in use. I have never seen peeling.

If your reloaded brass is hard to eject after firing, I would be looking for over pressure issues.

X 2

 

[ReloaderFred]

I have a collection of nickeled cases where the plating has started to peel. I used to just recycle them, but so many people disputed the fact that nickel can, and will, peel I started saving some samples just to show them.

When ejecting cases from my 2.5" Model 19 and Model 66, I use inertia to help as I push the ejector rod. That means I just give the gun a swift movement downwards and stop as I eject the spent cases and that usually clears the cylinder.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[9mmepiphany]

If your reloaded brass is hard to eject after firing, I would be looking for over pressure issues.

X 2

Over pressure when pushing at 158gr plated bullet at 725fps

 

[9mmepiphany]

When ejecting cases from my 2.5" Model 19 and Model 66, I use inertia to help as I push the ejector rod. That means I just give the gun a swift movement downwards and stop as I eject the spent cases and that usually clears the cylinder.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, that is what I do also.

I turn the barrel so it is pointing straight up, holding the frame with my left hand, and give the ejector rod a sharp rap, straight down, with my right hand

 

[rcmodel]

That's exactly what you should do with any revolver.

Unless you like getting unburned powder under the ejected star stopping the gun from working.

rc

 

[Walkalong]

Over pressure when pushing at 158gr plated bullet at 725fps

Unlikely, but could be possible with a very fast powder.

Have the chambers been polished? If not, that is where I would start.

 

[TimSr]

I shoot a lot of 357 mag in nickel cases, as well as 38's and have never noticed any difference in ejection. I have noticed they tend to drop in a little easier than handled brass once it starts to discolor and tarnish. Nickel doesn't tarnish from your fingers like brass does.

I've had nickel start chipping or flaking a little bit at the case mouth, but ignore it. It tumbles clean and shiny in under 30 minutes in cob media, so I've never felt the need to use harsher methods or chemical additives.

 

[Blue68f100]

My Ni 357 brass is decades old (35+). Have never had one split but have worn off the Ni finish on a few. Can't tell you how many times they have been reloaded. But from what I'm seeing brass from 3-4 decades ago is better quality than today.

 

[jmorris]

....l I started saving some samples just to show them.

Sounds like a perfect opportunity to post a photo.