I just got my first flintlock muzzleloader. The guy at the shop gave me a can of FFFG and FFFFG powder. I know that the FFFFG is for the pan and the FFFG is for the barrel. However, in the manual that came with the muzzleloader, it only shows powder charges for FFG and not for FFFG. Can I still use the same powder charge even though I am using FFFG instead of the suggested FFG? It is a .50 T/C Hawken muzzleloader. Thanks.
Question About Powder Charges
- Thread starter marineman
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Loyalist Dave
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The situation is..., the finer the granules, the faster the detonation, so the higher the pressure spike.
That being said, I use 3Fg in my .54 flinter for BOTH the pan and the main charge. I use 70 grains for the main charge, and I used the same load in my old .50 flinter from Cabela's. So with a moderate load you should have no worries.
As for the 4Fg, it is very fine, so it will tend to absorb moisture. As such, try it in your pan, and try the 3Fg as well, and if you don't see a huge advantage then use only the 3Fg for both. Remember it will be one thing for you to shoot it on the range, and quite another to walk around the woods for a while, hunting. In the second situation, the 4Fg priming powder in the pan will be absorbing moisture, and will slow down the detonation or perhaps prevent it. When in the field I dump the pan powder once an hour and reprime, even though it's 3Fg. Haven't had a misfire in the field yet (knock on wood).
I use one horn for both prime and main charge, as it's so much simpler, and my fixed measure throws 70 grains, and that's the charge I also use for target shooting, SO..., I know where my rifle shoots each and every time from 25 yards to 100 yards (I don't like the idea of half charges for target shooting or small game).
BTW a pound (16 oz.) of powder is 7000 grains, which equals 100 shots if each is a 70 grain load, minus that lost when used to prime the pan. Just fyi.
LD
That being said, I use 3Fg in my .54 flinter for BOTH the pan and the main charge. I use 70 grains for the main charge, and I used the same load in my old .50 flinter from Cabela's. So with a moderate load you should have no worries.
As for the 4Fg, it is very fine, so it will tend to absorb moisture. As such, try it in your pan, and try the 3Fg as well, and if you don't see a huge advantage then use only the 3Fg for both. Remember it will be one thing for you to shoot it on the range, and quite another to walk around the woods for a while, hunting. In the second situation, the 4Fg priming powder in the pan will be absorbing moisture, and will slow down the detonation or perhaps prevent it. When in the field I dump the pan powder once an hour and reprime, even though it's 3Fg. Haven't had a misfire in the field yet (knock on wood).
I use one horn for both prime and main charge, as it's so much simpler, and my fixed measure throws 70 grains, and that's the charge I also use for target shooting, SO..., I know where my rifle shoots each and every time from 25 yards to 100 yards (I don't like the idea of half charges for target shooting or small game).
BTW a pound (16 oz.) of powder is 7000 grains, which equals 100 shots if each is a 70 grain load, minus that lost when used to prime the pan. Just fyi.
LD
sharps59
Member
load 3 fffg 10% less than 2ffg to start. this should give you about the same group and impact point.
Loyalist Dave
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OH I almost forgot, IF you find your T/C flintlock a bit persnickity when it comes to reliable, fast detonation..., don't worry. One can upgrade to an L&R lock made to replace the T/C lock..., really improves the rifle, and while priced about the same as any good quality lock..., it's cheaper than buying a whole 'nother rifle, eh?
LD
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