RCBS Pro 2000 CASE FEEDER...its done.

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GW Staar

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My Case Feeder for my RCBS Pro 2000 is working, it's simple, and it's fast. This is as finished as it's likely to get for a long while excepting to add more calibers down the road.

I tried various ideas to link its operation to press handle stokes, but there was always a gotcha that made me abandon the idea. But that's ok. I could have have used a solenoid, but I really didn't like the idea of the noise or the requirement for electricity.

Really, I don't need it anyway. The same hand that would manually feed cases and bullets is idle anyway, and manually pushing the spring-loaded tube-fed case shuttle is frankly an extremely fast, painless, and sure way to keep the shell plate full.

In fact there are advantages. More control. One has the ability to rotate the shellplate without dropping a case (even when the case feed tube is not empty). A case that somehow gets upside down gets fed to nowhere (it drops off the shell plate) and you can just push the shuttle again immediately to fill the same spot.

One thing to note: If I wanted to spend another $220 plus caliber conversions, YES, I can mount a Dillon 650 Case Collator directly, to drop into my shuttle. For now, and maybe for a long time a Lee style shaker I made fills 4 36" tubes with .45, .40, .38/.357, 9mm, and even .223, .243, and .308 rifle cases so quickly that it makes the Dillon option not needed. Caliber changes are faster without one. I would get the Dillon Case Collator for sure if I had to support an IPSC, for other pistol competition habit where reloading pistol rounds in one caliber and in mass was the rule.

Anyway.....I have a Video. The first part just shows the case feed action, then I load a strip of primers and load a few complete .40 S&W rounds.

Click the next Picture to see the video.....the rest of the pictures detail how I built this contraption, with only hand tools, a grinder, a vice, and a Dremel.




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The limitation with the Pro 2000 design is the location of the APS primer system, which precludes any case shuttle system that raises and lowers with the ram and picks up a case somewhere in the ram cycle.
Therefore I chose to build a stationary shuttle at the bottom of the stroke when the primer is pushed in. That means there is no syncing to do, except to make the shuttle the same height as the shell plate when it fully seats a primer.

Notice primer counter below is mounted to the press with a heavy-duty “L” bracket using the holes RCBS provided for there tube primer system option. The next picture shows that I mounted the case shuttle to that bracket …. notice a second bracket on top stops any flexing of the lower bracket.
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The mounting bracket above was made from 1 ½” 2mm thick strap, bent to the "el" shape in my vice using a big hammer. Cuts were made with a hack saw, and of course drilled and bolted where needed.
Since nearly all who might want to tackle this project themselves won’t probably have the primer counter, they will have more direct access to the mounting holes at the front of the press casting. Mount should be a little easier for you.
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ABOVE: The shuttle track is just aluminum channel from Tru-Value Hardware, mangled with a hacksaw, dremel, hammer, and channel locks to get the shape shown below. The cases can’t possibly be pushed to the shellplate in a straight line. I first tried a sweeping curve. The result was 90% effective…not good enough. I had to find a way to get the shuttle in closer. The “S” curve did the trick. This shows the track while the shell plate is at the rest position (press handle up) BELOW: This picture shows the track while the shell plate is at bottom (primer inserted). This is when the next case is shuttled.
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Notice the steel circle with ears cut and bent up under the shuttle channel. That is how I mount the case feed cylinder…see the holes drilled in the ears.
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Above: My two piece shuttle. Just like a train going around a curve, I had to articulate the case shuttle. The wire is heavy piano wire. The shuttle material is UHDPE plastic. I needed something with self-lubing properties to reduce friction. UHDPE can’t be glued so screws become the only way to attach things.

The front of the shuttle, where the case is pushed needed to have a way to keep the shuttle down tight and slip underneath RCBS’s spring keeper. That’s what the steel plate with the notch is for. The notch captures the spring keeper and the spring keeper captures the shuttle and holds it down. The metal plate is recessed.
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I added in this picture to show the detail on the end of the shuttle. It's rough textured since I used a Dremel with a small sanding drum to shape it. Notice the ridge near one end that slips into the extraction groove of cartridges that have them. So far the groove doesn't seem to adversely effect .357. Haven't tried 30/30 rifle. But if I need to...making a second "front car" is just a Saturday project away. The notch on the right allows the shuttle to reach into the target hole better.
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The wire screwed to the back “car” is dropped into the front “car”.
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Pushed forward the shuttle catches the spring in the notch, pushes it aside, place the case into the shell plate. Retrieving the shuttle releases the spring, which keeps the case where it needs to be…centered below the sizing die. There is a small notch in the bottom left corner of the front shuttle piece to allow it to overlap the shell plate in the left corner. That makes it possible to push the case all the way in.
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I needed a spring on the back of the shuttle, so I screwed a plate to the bracket that gives me a place to mount that, plus a smooth area to feed primer strips.
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A short piece of 1¼” PVC, carved out on one side to less the shuttle just pass through, and carved out on the other side to let a .308 case pass through, was my goal in making the case feed cylinder. I later painted it with satin black auto trim paint, to make it prettier.
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Case feed cylinder mounted, with a case feeder adapter setting inside. My idea is to just make a new case feed adapter for different calibers as needed. That’s pretty easy.
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So far so good. Time to anchor and spring-load the shuttle. Then mount the Case Feed Cylinder.
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Case feed cylinder painted black. Notice the two holes topside. One’s a mistake and I filled it in. I tapped threads in the other one and added a thumb screw to tighten each Case Caliber Adapter in place. Notice the three notches on top. I drill matching hole in the adapters, tap them, then screw in long set screws to position the adapters perfectly each time. Notches are spaced so it only goes in one way.
 

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Above: This picture shows a lot. First: the case caliber adapter is tightened up high on purpose to show the set screws. They are screwed in enough to be flush with the out side cylinder surface.
Second: you can see that my dremel cut a slot in the shuttle channel close to the press, where I need it the "train" to go around the bend. That allows me to bend the side to the profile that ultimately worked perfectly. Then I ground off the channel base to match. I could solder the slot closed, but decided it was not any advantage.
3. I drilled, cut, filed, sanded, and polished slots in both sides of the channel, drilled an axle hole through the back shuttle piece, inserted an axle (RC Airplane parts), added the UHDPE white square slide bushings to keep down drag, mounted the spring to it and finished with lock nuts.
4. The 2 bolt/nut assemblies are for adjusting the height of the channel to match the shell plate height. This adjustment is easy to tweak when/if you need to adjust the depth you want to seat primers.
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The .45 ACP Caliber Adapter is also the base for all other auto pistol calibers. To make it work for .40’s and .9mm you just add tubes to lower the height from the shuttle channel. Bottom of the threads slides on the UHDPE shuttle. The clear tube under it just lets the .45 slide underneath. Left out the case fall over when it is dropped. We can’t have that.;)
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Notice the somewhat black triangle (need to add more perm. Marker) on the back side of the clear plastic tube. That will match similar triangles in the .40 S&W and .9mm adapter tubes.
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This is the .40 S&W adapter tube with matching triangle. The longer tube serves to again keep the cases from toppling when dropped. The sleeve with the triangle was glued with super glue.
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The Coupler Tube just slides over the adapters and allows me to just drop a 36” long tub of cases (AlliedArmory $28 bullet Feeder style).
As you may surmise, one Caliber adapter and 2 tube adapters handle auto pistol caliber. It takes separate Caliber adapters to do each rifle and 357/.38 pistol. See picture below for two rifle adapters.
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I found I needed a cartridge fence to keep the shell plate ejector wire from sending finished bullets to places other than into the finished cartridge bin. This was due to cartridges bouncing off the shuttle side wall. I made it out of Alder hardwood to match my Forster case trimmer mount seen to the left. I had to do more than a little measuring and fitting to make it both drop in and stay put…..there is no fasteners needed to hold it down.
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I mounted my powder inspection mirror to the back of it way simplifying the setup I was previously using. (mount to the trimmer base and too many joints) It still could use some simplification. Later.
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The mirror points to another mirror in the top of the press casting. In the video, from the camera lens, it points to nothing of use. But from my normal reloading position, planted on my drafting stool it shows the picture above.
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Feeding the tubes (all four 3 footers), with my shaker collator, takes about 40 seconds for .40 S&W, 30 seconds for .45 ACP,, and about a minute for 9mm. Unlike the Lee collator it will load tubes full of rifle too. It takes about less than a minute for .223 and .308. I will post a separate thread showing how I built the collator. It may be of interest to Lee folks and even Dillon 650 people who can't or don't want to spring for the $220 electric Dillon collator plus its $50 caliber wheels. This gizmo doesn't need different parts to do different rifle calibers, just one part to convert the pistol to rifle.

Too bad it isn't this easy to fill bullet tubes. The only quick way is a electric bullet collator, that I know of.
 
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I have to give you credit for the most ingeneous add-ons to the Pro2000. I am just in awe.

I am still just feeding bullets and brass by hand. I made 1000 rounds of 45 acp today and just banged them out. Lots of fun, but your add-ons are neat.

I will comment that I noted your press moves a lot. Mine is very ridgid on the bench and I do see much movement at all. Maybe I don't notice it because I am running the press. You make me think i should video my setup at some point.
 
GWStaar, you knocked another great one out of the park. That was simply amazing. I am still in the same boat as Peter. I am still manually loading both cases and bullets.

When I finally have some down time, I think I will have to try some of your ideas ideas. I hope you don't mind.

Your ingenuity is simply amazing..!! Thanks for the great post..!!! The Pro 2000 just wroks well...
 
I have to give you credit for the most ingeneous add-ons to the Pro2000. I am just in awe.

I am still just feeding bullets and brass by hand. I made 1000 rounds of 45 acp today and just banged them out. Lots of fun, but your add-ons are neat.

I will comment that I noted your press moves a lot. Mine is very ridgid on the bench and I do see much movement at all. Maybe I don't notice it because I am running the press. You make me think i should video my setup at some point.

Thanks Pete...still trying to swell my head aren't you. I do appreciate your interest though. When you retire you'll have time to tinker more. I'm just a tinkerer....that's my other hobby. I'm incapable of refining anything. For that you need real machine tools, and access to the best materials. But it works for me.

You mentioned that you notice my press moves a lot. Most of the movement is the case feeder shuttle and cylinder. If I had the materials and tools mentioned above, there wouldn't be any flex, but I used what I had, 2mm thick steel to make the shuttle's bracket. Plus that bracket is bolted to the "el' bracket mounting my primer counter, which also can flex a little. If that flexing bugs me, (and it might now that I've seen the video and noticed it) I may replace the bracket with one made in a machine shop with a CNC setup. I'm causing the movement there by pushing the shuttle, not cranking the press. I never noticed the press casting moving before when sizing....you're right it does a little. I will check that out. My bolts may have worked loose....get back with you on that.

GWStaar, you knocked another great one out of the park. That was simply amazing. I am still in the same boat as Peter. I am still manually loading both cases and bullets.

When I finally have some down time, I think I will have to try some of your ideas ideas. I hope you don't mind.

Your ingenuity is simply amazing..!! Thanks for the great post..!!! The Pro 2000 just wroks well...

Thankyou for the kind words. The reason I posted this and included the detail pictures was to encourage imitation and better. I sure don't mind. In fact please post your project when it happens...would love to see it....improve it even!:)

The other reason I posted this was to give RCBS a push start. Wouldn't it be great if RCBS offered a polished version of this to everybody. We don't need super expensive collators to feed bullets and cases. AlliedArmory showed them that just a few months ago, and already they have their own $28 bullet feeder.;) Now if they added this contraption to it, Pro 2000 owners would have totally automated presses for a $100 extra.

Richard Lee's case shaker collator costs $15.....and it works pretty fair. It can be improved easily. Which I did, in prototype form. Now if we can figure out a way to shake bullets into tubes that efficiently, we'd complete the quest. I'll be working on that next.
 
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Looks like a winner. With that project finished you can start on bullet and brass collators, I think you have the talent to built them yourself.
 
Looks like a winner. With that project finished you can start on bullet and brass collators, I think you have the talent to built them yourself.

LOL!! You may wear me down yet. :) Your many great projects and ideas shared with us was my main inspiration to improve my stuff. The other positive factor is the simplicity of the RCBS Pro 2000 that allows tinkering without much effort.

I know you frown on AlliedArmory's collator-less tube bullet loading idea....and I agree I would be in heaven building a collator like your sweet machine.

The only rub is that you have to recreate the hard part for each caliber. I finally found a piece of black (inferior remanufactured) HDPE to buy (3/4"x12"x12") and paid $30 bucks for that little piece so I could use ten cents worth. Then I used a table saw to cut a 3/4" slice off, a band saw to chop the slice into shorter lengths, a dremel and a utility knife to shape it. And to be honest it wasn't that easy or fun to drill straight holes in it. All that and it looks like an amateur did it. (ok, that part's true :)) For me to copy your collators I'd want some pointers on how you shape and machine your HDPE. Yours looks just fine...no...super.

(Folks the reason we use HDPE is for its self-lubing properties. No contaminating and messy oil or grease needed to make the shuttle slide nice and easy.)

I will be starting a thread on building what was intended to be a stop gap case collator (don't wish to wait weeks or months for a fancy collator) and it frankly it works fine even if it is a " budget class collator." :) Lee's was cheaper but it doesn't collate rifle, nor is it upside down case proof.

My next project will probably be a wet tumbler with stainless media....lots of inspiration on AR15.com for that, but your version is more the size I'd like.
 
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