Re-machine a mold

[Matt3357]

I had an idea to make a buckhammer style slug mold for a 20 gauge that can be used with standard shotgun wads cut to size. My conundrum lies with the cost. It would cost way to much to have a mold machined out of raw stock so I thought of another way. What do you think of getting a different mold re-machined into what I want? That way all my machinist would have to do would be to re-cut the profile. All I need is a single cavity mold. Also does anyone know the size of a 20 gauge full bore slug?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[BFE]

Matt, it would be cheaper for sure. Be carefull, most shops have a min charge, I for one have never done that because I personally do not think it's a fair practise. If you are in SE Virginia I would be more then happy to help you out.

 

[Matt3357]

The machinist I use doesn't really operate like a regular shop. He does machine work part time at home and works a full time job. I've had simple jobs done for as little as $20 where they would have cost closer to $60 anywhere else. Thanks for the offer, but I am in Southern Illinois, thus the need for shotgun slugs since we cannot use high powered rifles. By they way, how much would you charge to retool a mold?

thanks,
Matt

 

[Zeke/PA]

I have made several molds in the past, mostly for pistol bullets.
First a "cherry" or cutter was machined from oil hardening drill rod, then hardened and tempered.
Mold block blanks were machined to fit Lyman handles then the cavity was machined.
Sprue cutters were made from O-1 tool steel , hardened and tempered.
You may want to check a commercial mold as to venting which could be needed.
If your slug has a hollow base, check out how the molds are made to cast Minie-Balls.

 

[rcmodel]

Seems like a lot of trouble to go to when there is this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=236595&t=11082005

rc

 

[Matt3357]

rcmodel,

I have seen that mold many times and saboted rounds do not shoot well out of my gun, so I want a full bore 20 gauge slug much like the buckhammer. No hollow base nothing fancy, just 2 different sized cylinders on top of eachother.

Zeke,

I know how a mold is made. that is why i want to take a pre-existing mold in a smaller caliber and re-shape the profile. Since it is a simple enough shape I think he could make it with a standard lathe and mill.

thanks,
Matt

 

[rcmodel]

Well, the problem I see is, unless you can somehow attach the base wad to the slug (like a Buck-Hammer or Brenekke) or make it hollow-based like the lyman, the slug will be unstable & tumble.

No way it would work with just a cut-off plastic wad for a bore seal.

rc

 

[Matt3357]

hmmm now this is the kind of response I was looking for....a reason it wont work. You seem to have happened upon the next step I was going to take, which would have been to dissect a buckhammer and see what made it tick. But unfortunately I am at school and my supply of slugs are at home. Thanks for your input. Do you know how buckhammers' wads are attached by chance? The whole point of this is a combination of two things, so please bear with me, I would like to practice a bit with the slug gun more but at almost 3 bucks a shot, it starts to sting the wallet a bit, I am a Mechanical Engineering student that just so happens to like guns as well. I believe one of the driving forces behind the origination of Engineering was economics. To me it would be much more economical, as well as satisfy my urge to build something that works, to design and create my own slug for pennies compared to shooting commercial fodder. So all input is welcomed, including why it wont work(helps me avoid those mistakes the first time through, as well as gives me motivation to prove you wrong, ha)

 

[rcmodel]

as well as gives me motivation to prove you wrong, ha)

Good luck with that!

It has been a well known fact for several hundred years that a cylindrical slug will not stabilize in a smooth-bore barrel.

I have no idea how Remington holds the Buckhammer wad on, but I imagine it is a "snap-on" fit molded onto the wad & slug base.

The old Brenneke slugs had the base wad stack attached with a wood-screw.

rc

 

[Matt3357]

I realize that a cylindrical slug will not stabilize in a smooth bore barrel. That is why I am shooing a rifled barrel. So it is possible. I would like to recreate a production slug, not design a completely new one. I guess I am just going to have to wait until I can get my hands on a buckhammer and dissect it to even see if it would be plausible. I am sure there is something out there that could be used as a stabilizing wad. Something I don't quite understand is that if the wad is attached to the slug, why do I find them on the ground by the paper target? Surely the paper wouldn't cause enough resistance to rip the wad off. I am not trying to disrespect your knowledge, I am trying to learn from it.

thanks,
Matt