Buck13
Member
How hard is replacing the barrel on a Ruger 10/22? My state is about to ban threaded barrels on the semis, so I should get a 1:9 twist while I can. Does that have to go to a gunsmith, or can a mediocre amateur DIY?
Rebarreling 10/22
- Thread starter Buck13
- Start date
45 long
Member
Check YouTube . Plenty of videos on the subject. Here's one........
(481) Brownells - Installing A 10/22 Barrel - YouTube
(481) Brownells - Installing A 10/22 Barrel - YouTube
Seamaster31
Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2019
- Messages
- 171
Replacing the barrel on a 10-22 is a 10 minute job that requires very few tools and very little thinking. The barrel is held in place by a block which is attached by two screws. You do not need a gunsmith.
LiveLife
Member
Very easy to do by DIY.
10/22 barrels slide into receiver and held by "V block" that gets bolted to receiver with two Allen head bolts - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/page-2#post-12174248
I replaced the factory "V block" with Tactical Solutions V block that "lifts" the void cut out bottom of barrel
Last edited:
If the barrel has been on there a while it may require a few light taps with a rubber hammer. I placed something soft on the ground and held the barrel in one hand while lightly tapping on the front of the receiver. Some come off easy, others require a little help. But other than that it is about as easy as it gets.
I'd use this opportunity to go with a better quality, more accurate barrel.
Not the only source by any means:
ruger 10 22 barrel - MidwayUSA
I put this one on a rifle that I wanted to keep light. It is far more accurate than factory.
E. R. Shaw Barrel Ruger 10/22 22 Long Rifle Sporter Contour 1 16 Twist (midwayusa.com)
I'd use this opportunity to go with a better quality, more accurate barrel.
Not the only source by any means:
ruger 10 22 barrel - MidwayUSA
I put this one on a rifle that I wanted to keep light. It is far more accurate than factory.
E. R. Shaw Barrel Ruger 10/22 22 Long Rifle Sporter Contour 1 16 Twist (midwayusa.com)
OP
OP
Buck13
Member
Is that to firm up the barrel mounting when using a free-floated fore end?
LiveLife
Member
Yes.
I free-float the barrel by placing a plastic shim under the V block until I could slide a sheet of paper around the barrel - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22-collector-3-break-in.859106/#post-11307816
And I also better secure the receiver with the stock by adding a strip of electrical tape to prevent receiver movement with trigger pull (cheap bedding) which could result in muzzle movement - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...lector-3-break-in.859106/page-2#post-11351163
With factory barrel free-floated and even after 6000 rounds, Volquartsen trigger kit and CPC reworked bolt (to prevent flyers) produce 1/2"-3/4" 10 shot groups at 50 yards with preferred ammunition of CCI SV/Blazer and Aguila 40 gr - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...t-shipped-pricing.902560/page-5#post-12304852
Last edited:
Riomouse911
Member
Easy-peasy swap, as the guys posted above.
As for the twist, .22 LR is usually a 1/16” or maybe a 1/14” twist with some makers. A1/9” twist .22 LR barrel is normally geared towards long, heavy bullet ammo like the Aguila 60 gr subsonic loads. (This is why a fast-twist rifle barrel is paired with long-heavy bullets from a 5.56 or .223 AR, a 6 mm, 6.5 mm bolt gun, etc.) Slow twists wont stabilize the longer bullets.
Several reviews of fast-twist .22 LR with standard 36 to 40 gr loads reported good to so-so accuracy, but not great. ( I’d stay with a 1/16” myself.)
Stay safe.
Dave DeLaurant
Member
The DIY videos probably already mention this, but take out the bolt before loosening the barrel screws so you don't run afoul of the extractor.
With both barrel screws out, try rotating the barrel just a couple degrees to either side of vertical. I can usually do this without resorting to a padded vise.
Tapping as advised above with a rubber or plastic mallet is the next step if you can't simply twist and yank it out.
If it's really, really stuck to the receiver, try using a heat gun or torch to warm the barrel (say to around 120 F) a few inches ahead of the receiver, then put the barreled action into the freezer for half an hour. I haven't had to resort to this method on a 10/22 barrel yet, but it's worked for me in other situations.
With both barrel screws out, try rotating the barrel just a couple degrees to either side of vertical. I can usually do this without resorting to a padded vise.
Tapping as advised above with a rubber or plastic mallet is the next step if you can't simply twist and yank it out.
If it's really, really stuck to the receiver, try using a heat gun or torch to warm the barrel (say to around 120 F) a few inches ahead of the receiver, then put the barreled action into the freezer for half an hour. I haven't had to resort to this method on a 10/22 barrel yet, but it's worked for me in other situations.
doubleh
Member
It's only slightly more difficult than throwing rocks. What has me confused is the 1-9 twist on a 10/22 barrel.
OP
OP
Buck13
Member
Doing more research, it looks like this is only a good idea if shooting primarily 60 grain bullets. Given many people claiming poor results with 40 grain, I may abandon that idea and get 1:16 after all.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
I never understood the fascination with 60gr bullets in the .22LR.
doubleh
Member
Neither have I. The 40 grainers are slow pokey enough. The 36 gr. HP is a very efficient killer of small game within reasonable 22 rimfire range.
LiveLife
Member
Now with over 40,000 round testing 30+ brands/weights/lots of ammunition, I find 40 gr lead/CP bullets to consistently produce smaller groups than 38/36 gr bullets - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/page-2#post-12454264
BTW, factory 10/22 barrel has 1:16 twist rate and T/CR22 barrel has 1:15 twist rate.
Last edited:
Been there, done that. Not worth the time, effort or expense. Stick with 40gr solids.
As for the rebarreling, could you just do a pin and weld with a muzzle device? If you don't want a muzzle device, P&W a thread protector.
If you're chasing accuracy, you'll do better focusing your efforts on pillar bedding the receiver at the front and back to truly freefloat the barrel. For a start anyway.
There was a time when I had it in my head that I was going to assemble a 10/22 that would compete with bolt guns in our local rimfire matches. The receiver to stock work made the most difference. I was able to be competitive, but didn't start winning until I went to a 40X. Man, was that a rabbit hole I almost didn't escape from.
