Reboring a 22 for a Liner - What Do I Need To Know?

[sign216]

Drilling out a vintage Rev-O-Noc falling block single shot for a barrel liner. Using a Harbor Freight hammer drill, set to just drill (no hammer), which is drilling it out easily, using a Brownells piloted barrel drill.

I'm going to file an extractor notch in the liner, and then Acraglas or Loctite it into the bore. Are there any tips or pointers I should know?

 

[dfariswheel]

Before bonding, roughen the inside of the barrel and outside of the liner to give the bonder a "tooth" to bond to.
Loctite seems to work easier since it won't start to set up quite as fast as an epoxy, and it's thinner so easier to get it together.
Clean up of the excess it also easier.
For the best bond you might look into a Loctite Primer to improve the bond.

One trick is to use a very worn or sanded down nylon bore brush to work the Loctite into the barrel before inserting the liner.
It needs to be very loose so it will coat the bore and not brush it right back put.
This may do a better job of fully coating the bore.
Plug the liner with a plastic or wood plug to prevent it from entering the liner bore.

When you insert the liner, don't hesitate, it can start to bond faster then thought and you can get stuck part way in.
That's why you should test fit before the Loctite.
Also, do a very through job of degreasing the barrel bore and liner to insure no oil that will prevent a bond.

 

[sign216]

Before bonding, roughen the inside of the barrel and outside of the liner to give the bonder a "tooth" to bond to.
Loctite seems to work easier since it won't start to set up quite as fast as an epoxy, and it's thinner so easier to get it together.
Clean up of the excess it also easier.
For the best bond you might look into a Loctite Primer to improve the bond.

One trick is to use a very worn or sanded down nylon bore brush to work the Loctite into the barrel before inserting the liner.
It needs to be very loose so it will coat the bore and not brush it right back put.
This may do a better job of fully coating the bore.
Plug the liner with a plastic or wood plug to prevent it from entering the liner bore.

When you insert the liner, don't hesitate, it can start to bond faster then thought and you can get stuck part way in.
That's why you should test fit before the Loctite.
Also, do a very through job of degreasing the barrel bore and liner to insure no oil that will prevent a bond.

Dfaris wheel,
Thank you for the ideas and points to remember. Esp your tip re plugging the bore beforehand, as it's easy to forget, but will prevent tremendous problems.
I'm planning on using Loctite 680, which is the high strength formula for slip fit components.

Brownell's instructions are thorough, but didn't cover the Loctite method, so it's good you brought that up. Their instructions can also make one smile, like their point Not to hammer the liner in place. Ha!

Joe

 

[Jim Watson]

A friend has a little Martini that was lined down from some obscure Rook cartridge to .22 by the old Parkerifling process. The liner is soldered in and is stamped Parkerrifled on the muzzle across the seam.
I have a 1939 Stoegers (reprint) with the equipment advertised and the process described. Strong adhesives like epoxy, Acraglas and Loctite make it a lot simpler.

 

[sign216]

A friend has a little Martini that was lined down from some obscure Rook cartridge to .22 by the old Parkerifling process. The liner is soldered in and is stamped Parkerrifled on the muzzle across the seam.
I have a 1939 Stoegers (reprint) with the equipment advertised and the process described. Strong adhesives like epoxy, Acraglas and Loctite make it a lot simpler.

Jim,
Descriptions of the old solder process are not attractive. The adhesive technique has got to be a huge improvement. I can't imagine anyone using the solder technique, unless it was the 1800's and good adhesives weren't available.

Joe

 

[Jim Watson]

I don't know when adhesives were first used, I vaguely recall Brownells plugging Acraglas for the job.
But as I said, Parker was offering a soldering system in 1939 and no suitable glues on the market. I don't know if they kept it after the War.