Redding Dies

[9mmepiphany]

A while back I ran a thread asking about what folks thought an ideal die set would comprise of for my Hornday L-N-L AP. After a couple of pages of suggestions...and weeding out fan rantings...I arrived at
1. Lyman Carbide Resizing Die
2. Lyman "M" Expanding Die
3. Hornady Seating Die
4. Lee Factory Crimp Die

I happened to be talking with a shooting buddy who has been loading a lot longer than I and he lauded the qualities of the 9mm Redding dies he uses on his Dillon 650.

Doing a bit of research, I've found that Redding dies are highly thought of for precision rifle competition, as well as pistol competition.

I also notice that they make specialized sets for progressive presses and that they are very proud of their products ($$$). I found their Micrometer Seating Dies very interesting...something I'd consider for reloading my 7mm-08 or 6.5x55mm.

So my question to members who have used/own them:
1. What qualities do they posses that make them a better loading die?

I have to admit, I really can't tell much difference between the RCBS and Lyman dies I have. On the Hornady dies, I like the longer die bodies, lateral tension locking rings, and their texturing...and I like that they come already equipped with their bushings

 

[wlkjr]

I've only got about a year's worth of experience. I bought a used Dillon 650 and it had a Redding adjustable competition seating die. I now have two more on my other toolheads. Can't tell you why they're different or much else other than they're really convenient and I like'em a lot.

 

[Wyatt]

It's subjective, but I believe they are of slightly better quality in their finish, tolerances and honing. I use Redding for all my non progressive rifle loading, excluding a few calibers where I use Lee collet dies. For rifle, I think there is a difference! For pistol, not nearly as much! I also use Redding on my turret for pistol, but Dillon on my 650. I like the Dillion removable seater and crimp stems and their flared entry for progressives. I have also used the Redding micrometer seater and that feature is nice if you change bullets often on a progressive.

I only bought Dillon dies for my 650 because I didn't want Dillon to blame my off brand dies if I ever had a problem with my press.

I have not used many Hornady, Lee or RCBS dies and never Lyman. I do believe you get a 5% better product with Redding and Dillon, but you pay a 50% premium for either product. Really no different than other firearm related products. A Springfield and Ed Brown 1911 both fire 45 caliber bullets, but one costs 4 times as much. I have owned both, but the Brown wasn't 4 times as pretty or reliable.

Sorry I can't give you definitive scientific proof, but I use the best quality product when I believe there is a benefit.

 

[9mmepiphany]

What really caught my eye was that Redding produces a set of dies specifically for progressive presses...speaks to attention to detail; optimization for a purpose.

I've been looking at adding the micrometer loading stem to my Hornady seating die (which cost as much as the die itself) and balked a bit at the price. Then I saw what Redding charges and it made the Hornady seem like a bargain...that's what brings up the question of what you get for the additional cost.

Just to give you an idea of my sense of value. I passed on the micrometer adjustable stem for the Hornady powder measure, because I could almost get 3 of the non-micrometer stems for the same price. I just change them out once I had a favorite load set (by 1/4 and 1/8 turns) for a given caliber/powder; a friend who uses my press, bought his own stems and has them set for his favorite 9mm and .40 loads also

 

[nettlle]

I think the Redding dies are a bit better finished. As far as function I can't tell that they perform any better with the exception of the Redding Taper Crimp die. I do think the Redding Taper crimp die the best that is out there. You wouldn't regret buying Redding dies.

 

[cfullgraf]

I prefer Redding dies but will buy RCBS if i can't find the Redding I am looking for. I use the standard dies on my Hornady and RCBS progressive presses.

Redding dies just work. With some other manufacturer's dies, I occasionally have had problems right out of the box.

Redding has good customer service.

But Redding dies are pricey.

I like the micrometer stem seating dies in applications where I use several different bullets. Record the setting and it is easy to return to that setting at a later time. Cartridges where I do not change bullets, the standard seating stem is fine.

The Hornady seater die with the micrometer seating stem is a good, economical alternative to the Redding seater die.

I recently discovered the RCBS Gold Medal seater die. It has a window in the side of the die to drop the bullet in before seating and it has a micrometer stem. Great for use on the progressive. But, it is expensive and they only make it for a limited number of rifle cartridges. I have only used the 204 Ruger die.

 

[Paddy]

I found it confusing when first getting into reloading but one thing not painfully obvious to me was that a 3 die pistol set made for progressive is sometimes differentiated from a "regular" set by the fact that the expanding die is omitted and replaced with dedicated seat and crimp dies, is the flared mouth as mentioned. They understand that a user who is using the case activated powder drop with built in flaring won't need the flare die. So, to me, that's what defines a set intended for progressive use. Dillon sets are like this for the most part, as Dillon presses are primarily progressive.

 

[Walkalong]

I would suggest a Forster Competition seater for rifle when looking for accuracy. Any of the micrometer tops work for convenience as far as dialing to a certain load/bullet. The Redding is very good as well, but pricier than the Forster. Using Lapua brass, a Redding FL bushing style sizer, and a Forster Competition seater, and match bullets, I get .0025 to .001 runout.

The 'specialized" sets for a progressive is marketing in my opinion. There simply is no need for a huge flare in the die mouth to run smoothly on an LNL.

Redding does make some good stuff.

 

[rfwobbly]

I found it confusing when first getting into reloading but one thing not painfully obvious to me was that a 3 die pistol set made for progressive is sometimes differentiated from a "regular" set by the fact that the expanding die is omitted and replaced with dedicated seat and crimp dies, is the flared mouth as mentioned. They understand that a user who is using the case activated powder drop with built in flaring won't need the flare die. So, to me, that's what defines a set intended for progressive use. Dillon sets are like this for the most part...

True.

I have used the standard Redding 9x19 Luger die set on my Dillon 550 when I couldn't afford the Dillon dies. That's $39 vs $80, or half the price. Their advantages are...

► True taper sizing, resulting in zero "wasp waist". Being non-carbide, it's easier to make a Luger sizing die that forms the brass to its true external taper shape.

► For SWC bullets I like the hollow Redding seating anvil better than a simple flat anvil.

► Because Redding uses the same thread on all their stems, you can mix and match the die internals within a 3-die set. When used on a progressive this allows me to place the seating die stem inside the expander die body so that no crimping takes place during seating. Then place the seating die body with no internals in the 4th position as the taper crimp die. This setup saves me from having to order a separate taper crimp die.

 

[Paddy]

Mind=blown! Okay so is tha typical among "non progressive" 3 die sets? Because that would be really nice for flexibility.

Edit: I just checked my progressive redding set and the crimp die has no threads so it cannot be used to seat, and the seater cannot crimp.

 

[Offfhand]

Extracted quote from above post by Mr. Walkalong in this thread:

" I get .0025 to .001 runout."

It's always interesting to know where on the bullet or case that the measurement is being taken, and the measuring instrument used, as that adds perspective. Apparently, different people take their measurement(s) at different points, and with different tools and techniques, which can lead to misunderstandings about the value of stated claims.

 

[mdi]

IMHO; reloading dies are very simple tools. A conscientious reloader can reload good, accurate, reliable ammo with the cheapest tools available and a sloppy, unconscious reloader can't reload decent ammo with the best, most expensive dies. So it seems to me to be a non-issue for a beginner as the popular Lee dies will produce good ammo, just as well as Redding dies (I own both). Dies being so simple the differences are mostly finish and tolerances (but tolerances can also be a moot point because of the much lager tolerances in firearm manufacturer). So my Redding dies look good and make good ammo, but my slightly less attractive Lee dies also make some good ammo (FWIW, a 1,000 yard shooter once held the record for smallest group with ammo reloaded with a Lee Loader). If you are starting with the best quality (unnecessary IMO), benchrest dies cool, do it, but there are several more important factors in producing good accurate ammo than die cost/quality(?)...

Yep, mostly personal preference...

 

[MCMXI]

1. What qualities do they posses that make them a better loading die?

I've been reloading for just about 22 years now. I started out with one of those RCBS RockChucker kits and over the years added progressive presses, more single stage presses, electronic powder measures, Redding 10X and 30-BR powder measures, and on and on. I started buying Redding dies about ten years ago and these days I ALWAYS check Redding first before ordering dies. I have numerous complete sets of Redding Competition Dies for various rifle cartridges. I have Redding competition seater dies for a number of pistol cartridges too. I will say that I've NEVER had a problem with any Redding products. Recently I started reloading for a female friend who's a hunter rather than shooter. I didn't want to invest $200+ in Redding competition dies for her so I purchased a set of Lee dies. I had to modify the seater die to work properly with Barnes TTSX bullets. I've worked up a 1/2" load (at 100 yards) for her rifle using those budget dies. Also, once I started reloading for .375 H&H Mag I bought a number of Redding dies but they don't make a competition set for .375 H&H. For this reason I bought a Forster Ultra Micrometer Die from Midway.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/78...r-die-375-h-and-h-magnum?cm_vc=ProductFinding

The seater plug was undersized (O.D.) so the plug was expanding during bullet seating and causing all kinds of problems for me. I contacted Forster and they CHARGED me to replace the seater plug of a brand new die. Not impressed even though the new seater plug works fine.

As I said, I've never had a single issue with a Redding product. Their machining tolerances surpass any other die maker, the finish, the design, usually the best approach whether it's a sliding sleeve, spring, micrometer, seater plug or anything else. The only thing they need to do is include Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Rings with each die to make their product perfect. Like Walkalong I've had bullet runout in the .0005 range using Redding Competition Dies (dial indicator on the bullet, cartridge rotated on tapered part of case in a jig).

Caveat: I do have Lee FCDs that I use on various rifle and pistol cartridges and have a Hornady .450 BM die set that works reasonably well. So my die experience is with RCBS, Redding, Forster, Lee and Hornady.

 

[Walkalong]

where on the bullet or case that the measurement is being taken

With the case head supported, and the bullet supported just past the tip, I take it on the shoulder and the bottom of the neck. Some people like to support the shoulder and measure it near the case mouth. They only care about how straight it is from the shoulder forward.

You always ask that, but usually don't get an answer. How do you like to do it?