Redding taper crimp die

[MoreIsLess]

I just purchased a Redding Taper crimp die from Midway. It didn't have any instructions how to adjust the crimp. Can anyone advise the best way to do this.

Thanks

 

[Slamfire]

I just purchased a Redding Taper crimp die from Midway. It didn't have any instructions how to adjust the crimp. Can anyone advise the best way to do this.

Thanks

There are rifle and pistol taper crimp dies. I don't like crimping rifle ammunition unless I have to, which would be for cartridges like the 30/30 which are used in a tubular magazine.

Anyway, Chuck Hawks provides advice on how to adjust a taper crimp die.

How to Adjust Reloading Dies

https://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm

This has to be so obvious, I don't think this answers your need, and if it does not, you are going to have to be more specific.

 

[Walkalong]

For an auto caliber like 9MM?

Adjust it down a little at a time until it removes the bell but no more on the shortest cases which means it will remove the bell and move the case in maybe .001 on the longest ones. Go easy, it is very easy to over crimp.

 

[MoreIsLess]

For an auto caliber like 9MM?

Adjust it down a little at a time until it removes the bell but no more on the shortest cases which means it will remove the bell and move the case in maybe .001 on the longest ones. Go easy, it is very easy to over crimp.

Yes, 9mm........sorry

 

[9mmepiphany]

As Walkalong posted it is important to adjust your crimp die for your shortest case. If you adjust it to correctly crimp your longest case, it won't apply enough crimp to the shorter ones

 

[hdwhit]

Walkalong wrote:
Adjust it down a little at a time until it removes the bell but no more on the shortest cases which means it will remove the bell and move the case in maybe .001 on the longest ones.

What Walkalong wrote is entirely correct. Adjust your crimp die to your shortest case. The inevitable corollary to such advice is that you have to know which of your cases is the shortest.

Unfortunately, the advice commonly given on this forum is that in case of "straight-wall" pistol cases (and despite it's slight taper, 9mm is generally treated as a "straight-wall" case) they should not be routinely trimmed, so the question becomes how you know which of your cases is the shortest (unless you intend to measure each one).

 

[9mmepiphany]

so the question becomes how you know which of your cases is the shortest (unless you intend to measure each one).

While I don't trim my 9mm, I do sort by headstamp. It seems to limit the variation between case length.

I do trim my .38Spl cases that I use for coated bullets...after I've already sorted them. I do it to get more uniform expansion (Lyman M die) to prevent shaving of the bullet during seating. I don't trim the cases I load with plated bullets

 

[mdi]

Place an empty 9mm case (sized) in your press. Run the ram all the way up. Insert the die and screw it down, on the case until you feel resistance; the die hitting the case. Lower the ram, run the die down just a tad, finger tighten the lock ring, and try it. Use just enough crimp to straighten the flare of the case mouth (Neck tension is what holds bullets in place, not a crimp. It's easy to get too much crimp, because it's not easily seen by the nekkid eye and case bulging often results)...


A few thousandths case length is no worry as you only want to "deflare" the case, just check finished rounds with your gun's barrel; aka "Plunk Test"...

 

[Walkalong]

(Neck tension is what holds bullets in place, not a crimp. It's easy to get too much crimp, because it's not easily seen by the nekkid eye and case bulging often results)...

Worth repeating.

 

[nettlle]

And use the barrel of your gun to plunk test them.

 

[Doublehelix]

Place an empty 9mm case (sized) in your press. Run the ram all the way up. Insert the die and screw it down, on the case until you feel resistance; the die hitting the case. Lower the ram, run the die down just a tad, finger tighten the lock ring, and try it. Use just enough crimp to straighten the flare of the case mouth (Neck tension is what holds bullets in place, not a crimp. It's easy to get too much crimp, because it's not easily seen by the nekkid eye and case bulging often results)...


A few thousandths case length is no worry as you only want to "deflare" the case, just check finished rounds with your gun's barrel; aka "Plunk Test"...

Thanks for those directions.

I have been using Lee FCD's for a long time, but I see the effect they have on coated lead bullets and have started to migrate over to taper crimp dies.

For my .40 loads, I bought a Dillon taper crimp die, which has an adjustable sleeve (similar idea to the Lee FCD). I just ordered and received a couple of Redding taper crimp dies for my .45 and 9mm loads, and I was surprised that there was no visible adjustment other than the die depth.

Seems simple enough now that you explain it.

The "measure using the shortest case" part worries me since (as already mentioned) we don't trim pistol cases. I guess I can randomly crab 20-30 cases and see which one is the shortest and use that one.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I just ordered and received a couple of Redding taper crimp dies for my .45 and 9mm loads, and I was surprised that there was no visible adjustment other than the die depth.

I actually like them a bit better as I don't have to monitor if the adjustment is drifting...as I have to with the Lee FCD (I use index marks on the die)

I've been tempted, but can't quite get myself to get a Redding Micrometer Adjustable Crimping die

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I've been tempted, but can't quite get myself to get a Redding Micrometer Adjustable Crimping die

I feel the same but every time I look at the almost $70 price tag for one die I just can't click the "buy button" lol.

 

[Walkalong]

I've been tempted, but can't quite get myself to get a Redding Micrometer Adjustable Crimping die

I'll stick with my spacer method.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...stable-taper-crimp-dies.831571/#post-10739979