I've always been a firm believer that modern times call for modern components. ie; lead did not belong in a barrel until you first covered it in copper..However I saw a mould I just couldnt walk away from. Its a double cavity LBC WFN 458 325 grain with gas check. The other reason I shunned cast is due to the fact that to get a material hard enough for any worthwhile killing FPS you were instantly into fouling. I think these bullets could be cast out of kryptonite and still kill. Their almost full wad cutter, so for the brush I hunt they should be sweet. The only reason I like to keep the 45/70 marlin up to a respectable fps is that even though its mainly 50 yd shooting,you never know when your going to see one on a beaver dam at 100. I like to keep the ability to point and click to atleast 100.So before I run a single one of these down the barrel I would really appreciate a guidline of precautions.I have an abundant supply of wheel weights and H4198,so I'm looking for things like should I lube the bore first? What size should I make em to? What lube to use?What max fps? Anything else you could think of to prevent a mess on my hands......
Reduce leading before it happens
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db_tanker
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you gas-check that bullet like your supposed to and you won't have any leading issues, I think.
Leading, if I have been reading this right, occurs from using too hot a load and in a barrel that isn't really proper (twist rate) for lead bullets.
A marlin should be just fine, as far as twist rate goes.
The load, however, is where you need to worry...diffrent powders can help out in keeping leading from happening...instead of 4198, which is a good powder to use, use some 3031. Some powders can cause "jetting" around the base of the bullet that causes it to melt...again, this is what I have learned on here...which is why I just use GC'd bullets when I shoot lead. If I shoot plain base, then I go with a light charge and treat it like a plinker round.
MTCW
D
Leading, if I have been reading this right, occurs from using too hot a load and in a barrel that isn't really proper (twist rate) for lead bullets.
A marlin should be just fine, as far as twist rate goes.
The load, however, is where you need to worry...diffrent powders can help out in keeping leading from happening...instead of 4198, which is a good powder to use, use some 3031. Some powders can cause "jetting" around the base of the bullet that causes it to melt...again, this is what I have learned on here...which is why I just use GC'd bullets when I shoot lead. If I shoot plain base, then I go with a light charge and treat it like a plinker round.
MTCW
D
ReloaderFred
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If your Marlin has Micro-Groove rifling, then you'll need to keep the velocity down around 1,600 fps or so. Otherwise, the bullets will tumble. If you own one of the newer Marlins, with Ballard type rifling, then it won't be a problem. I've shot cast bullets out of my 1895 Marlin with Micro-Groove rifling, but anything over 1,600 fps, then they will be all over the place sideways.
At any rate, clean all the copper fouling out of your barrel before you try the cast bullets. Lead does best with a barrel that doesn't have any copper fouling in it.
The gas check will take care of most of the leading issues. In my 45-120 Sharps, I'm pushing a 420 grain gas checked cast bullet at a little over 2,100 fps and there are no leading issues whatsoever, but I also use a case filler, which you have to be careful with so you don't ring the chamber.
Cast the bullet a little harder than wheelweights. The harder the alloy, the faster you can push it without tumbling, if you do have Micro-Groove rifling. You can harden it with some linotype, if you have it available, or some 50-50 solder. I wouldn't go any softer than Lyman #2 alloy if you're going to push them very fast.
As for lubes, I use the regular NRA 50-50 beeswax/alox formula for my 45-120 bullets, but I also use the harder lubes for some of my other cast bullets, especially in pistol calibers.
I've also confined my 45-70 loads to IMR 3031, and it's been pretty accurate. There are other powders that work, too. IMR 4895 comes to mind, along with IMR 4198, but I haven't tried them in my 45-70. I do use IMR 4895 in my 45-120 with excellent results.
If you don't have the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual, then I would suggest you pick up a copy, as all your issues are addressed in it. Cast bullets are fun to use and make, since it adds to the sense of accomplishment with the finished product.
Hope this helps.
Fred
At any rate, clean all the copper fouling out of your barrel before you try the cast bullets. Lead does best with a barrel that doesn't have any copper fouling in it.
The gas check will take care of most of the leading issues. In my 45-120 Sharps, I'm pushing a 420 grain gas checked cast bullet at a little over 2,100 fps and there are no leading issues whatsoever, but I also use a case filler, which you have to be careful with so you don't ring the chamber.
Cast the bullet a little harder than wheelweights. The harder the alloy, the faster you can push it without tumbling, if you do have Micro-Groove rifling. You can harden it with some linotype, if you have it available, or some 50-50 solder. I wouldn't go any softer than Lyman #2 alloy if you're going to push them very fast.
As for lubes, I use the regular NRA 50-50 beeswax/alox formula for my 45-120 bullets, but I also use the harder lubes for some of my other cast bullets, especially in pistol calibers.
I've also confined my 45-70 loads to IMR 3031, and it's been pretty accurate. There are other powders that work, too. IMR 4895 comes to mind, along with IMR 4198, but I haven't tried them in my 45-70. I do use IMR 4895 in my 45-120 with excellent results.
If you don't have the Lyman Cast Bullet Manual, then I would suggest you pick up a copy, as all your issues are addressed in it. Cast bullets are fun to use and make, since it adds to the sense of accomplishment with the finished product.
Hope this helps.
Fred
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