Reloaded 9mm Velocity Way Too High

[booran1]

I'm fairly new to reloading and inherited a nice lot of gear and supplies, including a Dillon 550 press. I reloaded some 40 S&W without issue and decided to get setup on 9mm. After reloading maybe 50 rounds to take out and test I got some bizarre velocities. I'm using a Caldwell Chrono to measure the velocities (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTN5DTE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

The first string had a handful of shots ~860 - 980 fps. There was one or two that came in low around 550 fps. Then several shots in the order of 5000-6000 fps. A second string started with 5000-6000 fps again. I stopped wanting to investigate further to figure out if it was true reading or the chrono doing something funny. In between I shot a box of factory loads that all measured up fine. I don't see any signs on the brass of over-pressure and a close inspection of the firearm didn't show any signs of abnormal wear or damage. I'm at a loss of how this velocity is possible and frankly how I didn't blow metal into my hand.

I am using Tite-Group which I have read stories of being sensitive and I noticed more variation in the COL than I would like. All of the data is below with pictures. Please if anyone could give me any advice it would be much appreciated. I don't know if I'm pressing them too tight or if I should back down the powder significantly and test more?

Bullet: WB38MC130 (130 Gr. FMJ .356 diameter)
Powder: Hodgdon Tite-Group
Primer: Winchester Small Pistol
Target COL: 1.15
Powder Weight: 3.8 grs

I used the load data for a 130 GR BERB RN out of Hodgdon's manual (Start 3.5 grs - Max 3.9 grs). Ended up seeing COL ranging from 1.145 - 1.159.

Thank you for any help!

 

[z7]

I don’t think 5000fps is possible without blowing up your gun as well

how was recoil on the reloads compared to factory?

 

[clone]

5000 fps you would definitely notice alot of recoil and see signs on the brass. You may be to close to the chrono or it it is bad, one of the two.

 

[booran1]

I was definitely bumping up as close as I could to the chrono. I shot 4-5 strings of factory that same day and all of them seemed consistent and expected velocities. It's been a bit of time so I can't remember for sure if I was close to the chrono on all of the strings. What kind of distance do you normally use when testing new loads on pistol?

I don't remember any concern with the amount of recoil, but again it's been a while :/ I think if it jumped harder than I liked I would have stopped immediately. This was also using a Ruger SR9C so I was surprised the frame didn't just crack with that velocity.

 

[<*(((><]

5,000-6,000 fps is not possible with 9mm let alone nearly every cartridge including rifles. There have only been a few rifles to exceed 5,000 fps. Your chrono is giving bad readings. Try putting a fresh battery in your chrono.

 

[Bfh_auto]

I usually stand back about 10 feet.
Being too close, or poor lighting can cause strange readings.

 

[Rod47]

Too close to cronograph. Read instructions with your unit.

 

[booran1]

Ah... I was probably inches from the chrono. Is there any reasoning behind why standing too close causes bad readings? The gas distorting the sensors or bits of burning powder moving faster than the bullet?

I guess I'll have to shoot some more at the proper distance and get better data...

Thank you for the input!

 

[joneb]

I set up my chrono between 7'-15' from the muzzle depending on the the firearm.

 

[ATLDave]

LOL! 5,000 FPS from a handgun! Yeah, either the chrono reading is bad or you should call DARPA and offer to sell them your reloads and recipe.

 

[ATLDave]

Ah... I was probably inches from the chrono. Is there any reasoning behind why standing too close causes bad readings? The gas distorting the sensors or bits of burning powder moving faster than the bullet?

Measuring gas or ejecta is one reason, but when you're at "inches," the flash itself is probably involved. Your chrono is optical - it's trying to time the gap between when the shadow (literally) of the bullet passes the first and the second screen. Shooting from inches away is like popping a flashbulb in the middle of the optical instruments - you're blinding them. Results are going to be unrelated to anything real.... there's nothing coming out that barrel at 5,000 fps unless the whole gun is coming apart.

 

[Phlier]

Is there any reasoning behind why standing too close causes bad readings?

Too many things moving quickly past the sensors. The only thing that you want moving quickly past the sensors is the bullet.

 

[Obturation]

Yeah, as others said - impossible. If it were a true reading there would likely be a tear in the fabric of the universe where the bullets went. I'm no physicist so I could be wrong about that but if I see 9 foot tall spaghetti monster wandering around I'll know he came through from another dimension and I'll know who made the hole he came through.

 

[Rule3]

When in doubt, read the ........................................

OPERATIONMPS< >OFF< >FPS1. Place Chronograph on stable surface at the appropriate height for firing projectile through the shooting window. The Chronograph may be mounted on top of a Tripod using the ¼-20 threaded insert.2. Position the unit 10 to 15 feet in front of the muzzle of a firearm

https://www.btibrands.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/chronograph-and-kit-master-instructions.pdf

 

[mrawesome22-250]

Too close to the chronograph and using bullets designed for 38Super.

 

[fxvr5]

using bullets designed for 38Super.

But this doesn't matter.

 

[Phlier]

Yeah, as others said - impossible. If it were a true reading there would likely be a tear in the fabric of the universe where the bullets went. I'm no physicist so I could be wrong about that but if I see 9 foot tall spaghetti monster wandering around I'll know he came through from another dimension and I'll know who made the hole he came through.

And he was likely in the shower when he got torn into our dimension; he's not gonna be happy.

Best have some of them super 9mm loads at the ready.

 

[rfwobbly]

Welcome Aboard !

Brother, you really need to step back before you get hurt. Read more, reload less.

And please get the correct components.....
• Your loading 38 Super FMJ bullets, and using plated 9mm load data.
• You need to start with a much more forgiving powder than TiteGroup. Something like Sport Pistol or Win 231. The narrow load range on TG doesn't leave you any room for mistakes... in judgement OR loading process.

You got really good equipment and the correct idea to chrono your loads. Good ! But you are proceeding as if great equipment will protect you and details don't matter. Understanding, a highly refined process, and record keeping are the 3 legs this hobby rests upon.

If this was Bungee Jumping... you've got the best rope, but you're tying it off with the same knot you use on your shoes. Capiche ?

 

[booran1]

Welcome Aboard !

Brother, you really need to step back before you get hurt. Read more, reload less.

And please get the correct components.....
• Your loading 38 Super FMJ bullets, and using plated 9mm load data.
• You need to start with a much more forgiving powder than TiteGroup. Something like Sport Pistol or Win 231. The narrow load range on TG doesn't leave you any room for mistakes... in judgement OR loading process.

You got really good equipment and the correct idea to chrono your loads. Good ! But you are proceeding as if great equipment will protect you and details don't matter. Understanding, a highly refined process, and record keeping are the 3 legs this hobby rests upon.

If this was Bungee Jumping... you've got the best rope, but you're tying it off with the same knot you use on your shoes. Capiche ?

Yea, I hear ya. For what it's worth I've read through a reloading manual about 3 times now, but it didn't go into as much detail on plated vs FMJ bullets. I referenced the Hodgdon manual here but I actually compared a few different loads and some online information before setting on the numbers I used. From what I researched online (before starting these) the bullets were okay to cross into a 9mm load.

 

[Walkalong]

I set my chrono at 15 feet from the muzzle, works well.

Be careful out there, the advice to read/study some more is sound.

This is a great place to get safe advise.

 

[Random 8]

Listen to RF. Immediately discontinue that load, you're hot, not because the chrono says so, but because Hodgedon says so. They have a max of 3.2 indicated for a 124 grain jacketed bullet.

As above, proceed with a more forgiving powder such as HS-6 and a known projectile with data specific for that bullet...a berrys of that weight or similar may be a good place to start. 9mm is particularly sensitive to seating depth, and this varies by specific bullet. There are also differences for apropriate data for jacketed, vs coated vs plated bullets. Add a good manual such as Lyman's to your kit.

Save the substitutions for after you've gained experience

 

[booran1]

They have a max of 3.2 indicated for a 124 grain jacketed bullet.

Maybe I'm looking at different data?
I see
124 GR. BERB HBRN TP that has start 3.6 grs and max of 4.1 or
130 GR. BERB RN that has start 3.5 grs and a max of 3.9?

 

[Random 8]

Maybe I'm looking at different data?
I see
124 GR. BERB HBRN TP that has start 3.6 grs and max of 4.1 or
130 GR. BERB RN that has start 3.5 grs and a max of 3.9?

Look at the data for Jacketed bullets. Cast and plated generally utilize different charges to attain same velocity and pressure. Look at the Hornady HAP at 125 and the Sierra FMJ at 125. The latter interestingly has a higher load range, the HAP significantly lower. You might be in a safe range, you likely might not be or are on the high end. Either way you need to work up to it.

 

[booran1]

You might be in a safe range, you likely might not be or are on the high end. Either way you need to work up to it.

Definitely don't disagree. Just trying to navigate all of the different load data (none of which contain the specific bullet I'm using).

Hornady HAP 125 is showing start at 2.8 max of 3.2 and
Sierra FMJ 125 is showing start at 4.1 max of 4.4

How would one decipher this and pick a starting point for their own bullet? I'm trying to be careful not to start too low and get a bullet stuck in the barrel, but really don't know how low you'd have to go to do that.

 

[Random 8]

2.8 will have zero risk of lodging a bullet. When loading 9mm, I generally seek the lightest charge that will provide reliable function and acceptable accuracy. These are near the low end of charges, with the exception of a Military Browning I used to have that needed a slow powder running hot.

When approaching a maximum load for defense or practice thereof, I select a bullet as tested in available reloading data, for which specific charges are available.

I really would suggest you switch to a more forgiving powder. HS-6 is a good pick in 9mm with wider charging ranges and a known bullet as listed in your data manual or Hodgedon online. The BERB 124 would be a good pick. As you've gained some experience, you should feel confident using your existing TG and 130s up with a safe load.