Reloading For A 9mm Revolver

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nevadabob

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Today I brought home a Charter Arms 9mm Pitbull revolver. I've been reloading 9's for my semi's for about 6 years now. Any special considerations for reloading when it comes to a 9mm revolver?
 
I never had to do anything special with my blackhawk. You can use really light loads.
 
It's not the barrel that determines accuracy in a revolver so much as the cylinder throats. If the throats aren't even, over size, under size, etc., then nothing you do for the barrel will matter.

The upside of shooting the 9x19 in a revolver is you're no longer limited in bullet designs. If it's 38/9mm caliber, it will shoot, no matter what shape the nose is. The SWC bullet becomes a viable option in the revolver.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
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I'll need to carefully secure the revolver in the vise and slug the barrel. Whenever I bring home a new pistol I do that.
 
If using lead bullets, how about using bullets sized properly for the barrel?

I have to be careful because they don't like to seat in the revolver's chambers.
I have to size 'em, unlike when I use 'em in a semi-auto.
 
I sure don't want to derail this thread, but I have an additional question - do cartridges in the Charter Arms 9mm Pitbull like the OP is asking about still headspace the same way they do in a semi-auto? Or are they headspaced because they're being held in some kind of star, or moon clip?
Just curious.:)
 
To check bullet jump on my loads, and factory loads: with the known OAL, and with each chamber loaded. I shoot 3-4 rds. Then empty the chambers and check the difference of the OAL to what you started with.

.015" to .025" growth after 4 rds. isn't too bad in what I have found.
 
In an article on the Pitbull from "The Shooter's Log" (10-11-14) I found these words: "The chambers of the cylinder are also stepped so the case mouth of the 9mm bottoms out or headspaces on the step and does not fall through the chamber."
 
A buddy of mine just bought a used snub 7-shot 986 and we put it through the ringer this past weekend. We all liked it very much. It was very accurate with cast reloads as well as factory stuff. Soda cans at 25yds didn't last very long.
 
I'll be mindful of my crimp and measure for bullet creep/jump once out to the range

I have a S&W 929 PC (8 shot) which I put almost 1000 rounds per month through. This gun uses moons so I don't know how that might effect things but under normal conditions my standard 9mm set up sometimes the cartridges will get longer before it's their turn to fire. I have corrected this not by crimp but rather using a EGW undersize die.

I made up a bunch of "snap caps" with 135g coated for dry fire practice. After many 1000s of dryfire strikes some of the pre-U die bullets have started to grow. So I pull them, use a standard size die that I have that doesn't have a decap pin, and replace the bullet.

As far as bullet size is concerned I have 3 loads that I use on a regular basis. a 95 grain coated RN for some local static steel matches, a 105g coated TC for steel challenge and a 135g coated RN for falling steel. For the 105 the bullets I find work best measure .358 the others .357 With the .358 I have best results using federal or Blazer brass, the 95 and 135g, Winchester brass. I find that Win brass is thicker than Federal. I've used Hornady HAP 125g JHP, I think they are .356 not sure and they are good but too expensive so I really haven't used them much.

I have talked to some of the top revolver shooters in the country about bullet sizing and slugging barrels (in the 929) and the impression I get is they just experiment (as I have) to see what works best. With coated bullets at least there are in my experience slight differences in diameter from one batch to the next even when using the same vendor. Most of the top shooters have had their cylinders worked to make them uniform and they index for optimal performance. I'm not at that level of marksmanship by any means but I have noticed that the gun performs better at times depending on the orientation of the cylinder. I've had my cylinder trued and the B/C gap and headspace worked but it's not perfect. I don't know if it can be. Obviously with a snubbie much of this is not a concern but I wanted to make a point about neck tension vs. (taper) crimp for holding the bullets in place. I have a friend that is "old school" revolver and he has a bit of disdaine for the 929. He is a graduate of S&W revolversmith school and shoots nothing but S&W so it's not the brand but he doesn't "approve" of 9mm for a revolver. I have no big issue with it and it simplifies my ammo supply. But you do need to keep an eye on bullet creep.

On a side note it is always interesting to see the expression on peoples faces when I tell them my revolver shoots 9mm. Some of them I think believe that I don't know what I'm talking about. Of course most of the time if I were talking to the same people assuming that I had a S&W 627 and used 38 long or short colt the conversation would not go any further than the word "colt".
 
Surprised looks are interesting. Kind of like when I dropped a Chevy 350 in my '64 Rambler American 2 door hardtop. People would ask: "What's in that thing?". I'd reply: "The BIG 6!".
 
Not sure where they headspace but they don't utilize moonclips. Came across this recent article:

https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2...rnham-bullet-jump-makes-9mm-snubbies-a-no-no/

I'll be mindful of my crimp and measure for bullet creep/jump once out to the range.

Good to be mindful, of course. But I'd wager the offending gun was an LCR, perhaps exacerbated by the shooter's grip. It hasn't been an issue in my heavier Taurus 905, with a variety of factory ammo and reloads, from 88 to 147 grain.

When I load, I'm conscious of neck tension and a consistent, moderate crimp.
 
That's good to hear re your 905. It's the same weight as the Pitbull. My LGS had each in stock and was a toss up re my selection. The deciding factor was no moon clips. I have several other Taurus handguns and all shoot well.
 
I would love a 9MM revolver for a range toy, but S&W is awfully proud of them.
 
I have a couple Ruger Blackhawk convertibles in .357/9x19, and I had one 9x19 cylinder rechambered to 9x23 Winchester. The Rugers are built like a tank, and less expensive than the S&W. Certainly, they're a single action revolver instead of a double action, but they're still shooters.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
In an article on the Pitbull from "The Shooter's Log" (10-11-14) I found these words: "The chambers of the cylinder are also stepped so the case mouth of the 9mm bottoms out or headspaces on the step and does not fall through the chamber."

That is how the 9x19 head spaces in a semi-auto.

The other tip off is that the Pitbull does not need moon clips. Since there is no rim on a 9x19 case, something has to stop the case from falling into the cylinder.

So, since the Pitbull head spaces on the case mouth, taper crimp the the crimp of choice. Do not roll crimp them.

I just shoot the same ammunition that I shoot in my semi-auto 9mm pistols in my 9mm revolver. Makes inventory and reloading easier.

I've found that I like moon clips. A while back, I got an S&W 986 (9x19) which uses moon clips and then I got a 442 Pro (38 Special) that was cut for moon clips. Liked the 442 so well, I had two other of my J-frames modified to use moon clips. A BMT Equipped mooner/de-mooner is the cat's meow when coming to loading/unloading the moon clips but they are a bit pricey.

I have a couple plastic Berry MFG 30 cal ammo "cans" to store moon clipped ammunition ready to shoot.
 
Along these lines, the Tau 905 chambers are stepped to allow proper head spacing, as well. You can shoot without the moon clips, just not use the ejector.

Isn't that true with most 9mm revolvers?

The key benefit of the pitbull is that it allows the ejector to work without moon clips ....
 
A BMT Equipped mooner/de-mooner is the cat's meow when coming to loading/unloading the moon clips but they are a bit pricey.

Agree it is the best tool for the job. Takes a bit of practice to keep the rounds from falling over while loading the moons but still worth the cost.
 
Yes, the BMT tools for rimless cartridges seem to need a third hand for a while when loading/unloading moon clips. Once you have them figured out, mooning/demooning is a breeze. I have BMT tools for 45 ACP and 9x19.

The tools for rimmed cartridges like 38 Special are a bit more simple and straight forward.
 
I have a Taurus 905, and it shoots the same ammo as my autos. Interestingly the cylinder throats will not accept rounds loaded with .357/.358 diameter bullets, but .355 bullets are fine. I use 115gr TMJ-RN loaded to standard pressure with a taper-crimp. Never had enough bullet creep to be an issue.

The Taurus moon clips are a bit flimsy and can be annoying at the range, so I've taken to loading .38 Special cases shortened to 19mm overall length with 9mm dies. Easier to deal with and they work a treat. Not an issue for the Pitbull, of course, but really good in the M905.

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