Reloading for Ruger No. 1 .223 Rem

[David4516]

So I have a Ruger No.1 rifle that I'd like to try shooting at longer distances (500 yards - ish). I want to come up with the more accurate reload with higher BC bullets than what I've been using.

Up till now I've just used the same load I developed for my AR15. This load was developed with saving money in mind. I wasn't as worried about accuracy since I'm shooting iron sights on that rifle anyway. I was happy with "minute of paper plate" at 200 yards (about the longest I can shoot with irons I'm nearsighted LOL). Load consists of 55gr Hornady flat base soft points, mixed head stamp once fired brass (my friend calls it "range poop"), H335 powder (25.0gr), and CCI No. 41 primers.

This load is OK out of the Ruger. Gets just shy of 3,100 FPS. But it drops pretty fast past about 300 yards and the wind really pushes it around. So I'm interested in higher BC and velocity.

From what I can tell the rifle's twist rate is about 1:12 1/2 inches. Used the "cleaning rod" trick several times and the average result was about 12.5

So finding a better BC bullet that will still stabilize with this twist rate I think will be a challenge. I bought a box of Horandy 53gr VMAX bullets, they've got a BC of 0.290, this is the highest I've seen for anything in the lighter-than-55gr category.

I think I will stick with H335 as my powder, I've had good luck with it so far.

I bought a box of 100 Norma brass, I'm told that it's supposed to be more consistent from one case to the next than most brands are. Hope this is true...

Not sure what primers to use. I have CCI small rifle, CCI No. 41 "mil spec", and Winchester small rifle. No idea which of these is supposed to be the most consistent, or if I should just buy something totally different?

Other questions I have are bullet seating depth / COAL, and full length sizing brass vs just neck sizing.

On the seating depth, I took a fired piece of brass, and pressed the case mouth lightly against the floor to dent it inward just enough to hold a bullet. I put one of the 53gr VMAX bullets in the case (leaving it really long) and pushed it up into the chamber of the Ruger. Removed it and measured with calipers. I believe that this should give me the COAL where the bullet starts to touch the rifling. I did this several times and got very slightly different results each time:

2.313
2.330
2.339
2.339 (again)
2.342
2.345
2.344

Interesting that every time I tried this the number got a little bigger. I wonder if my method of testing is flawed? Averaging these numbers gave me 2.336 COAL

I understand that touching the rifling is bad and that you want to seat slightly deeper than this number. I'm just not sure by how much. In the past I've always gone with what the book suggests as the COAL but I know that this can vary alot from one rifle to the next and I want to tailor these rounds to this specific rifle as much as possible.

The book recommends 2.240 for this bullet. 2.240 vs 2.336 is a big difference though. Is that normal? Where should I start at? I was thinking 2.315, but not sure if that's enough margin for error

I tried this same method with the 55gr soft points I've been shooting and the numbers I got from my test were actually pretty close to the number in the book:

2.212
2.209
2.211

Book says 2.200 for that bullet so this is just about dead on. So if this bullet is so close to the book, why is the VMAX so far off?

On the full size vs neck size thing, I've always just full sized all my .223 ammo, because I've been told you have to for semi-auto rifles. I am told that neck size only is the preferred method for bolt actions. But I have no idea what the right method is for falling block actions?

Sorry this is such a long post. I just want to get this right (hopefully on the first try ha ha). So any info/advice you guys could share would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[rcmodel]

Your rifle will probably stabilize 60 grain flat base SP Spitzers, or 63 grain semi-pointed.

My old 1-12 22-250 was very accurate with 63 grain Sierra Semi-pointed.


Your best bet for measuring to the rifling is size and seat the bullet long.
Then color it with a black marker, or smoke it with a candle, and chamber it.

You should see rifling marks where it rubbed the black off.

Keep seating deeper and remarking it until it doesn't.

rc

 

[BigBore45]

i would go with sierra's 52 grain match king.

anything heavier is going to be marginal on stabilization at any upper end velocity for long range work.

 

[flashhole]

The bullets themselves can have that much variation if you are using the bullet tip as the datum. You need to use a tool that allows measurement from the ogive. I like this one. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/746974/ptg-bullet-comparator-22-24-25-26-28-30-calibers

I will put in a second vote for the Sierra 63 grain semi point bullet.

 

[Bart B.]

Ruger's website says their No. 1 in .223 Rem has a 1:9 twist 26" barrel. That's good for bullets up to 70 grains in warm weather 70 degrees or higher. Up to 60 grains in cooler weather.

Regarding sizing fired cases.....

Sierra Bullets proved back in the 1950's that full length sizing bottleneck cases produced best accuracy in bolt action rifles. Such dies are also best for lever action an falling blocks types like the Ruger No. 1. The benchrest folks finally caught on about 10 years ago. While their smallest groups stayed the same size, the biggest groups got smaller by full length sizing cases. It's important that fired case shoulders not be bumped back more than .003" so a gauge to measure your cases is needed. RCBS Precision Mic or Hornady LNL is good; the LNL can be used with a set of calipers.

I don't think you need a bullet comparator. I never used one nor figured out a need for one. A .010" spread in overall cartridge length is normal with bullets not all perfectly pointed. After you can shoot no worse than 1/4 inch at 100 yards, then a comparator may help you shrink your biggest groups down to 3/16 inch.

 

[GooseGestapo]

The highest b.c. bullet under 60gr is the Hornady 53gr V-max @.290.
Get some and some either RL15,H4895, or BLC2.
Load 27.0 Rl15, or BLC2, or 26.0H4895.
My 1/12" .223 shoots them sub moa. About as good as you'll get.
Set to just touch the lands. Your rifle will tell you what it wants. Listen to it, not the Internet.

 

[David4516]

rcmodel, thanks I'll try the marker method and see what happens

Bart B., the current production No. 1 probably does have a 1:9 twist 26" barrel but mine is about 15-20 years old. It is shorter (22 inches I think, I haven't actually measured it, but it's not a 26 that's for sure) and has slower twist. I wish it was a 1:9 that would give me more options. Also I'd be happy with a 3/4 inch group, right now it's shooting more like 1 1/2

GooseGestapo, I've already got some of the 53gr VMAX bullets that, assuming it shoots well, will probably be my go-to bullet for this rifle. I have H335, IMR4198, and CFE223 on hand, so I'd like to try the powders I've already got on the shelf and see what they do before I go buy something different. I have high hopes for the H335...

 

[ArchAngelCD]

If your Ruger does have a 1:9 twist I highly recommended the Sierra 69gr tipped Matchking. It has a BC of over 300 @ any velocity listed and it is accurate. I use Varget but it seems CFE223 will deliver higher velocities so if the accuracy is good that might be the powder to use.

 

[RecoilRob]

Unless you're using the really heavy bullets, you're going to have trouble having enough bullet in the neck with the short ones out to the lands. People will argue all day about seating depth, and not having enough purchase in the neck is going to have the bullet being very fragile.

Loaded bullet runout is the #1 most important thing IMHO for accurate ammo. A few thousandts here and there closer or not to the lands is less important than getting enough bullet stuck in the neck so it'll stay where you put it until it's fired.

Being a single shot (nice choice on the #1!) you can be gentle with them unlike an AR or other autoloader, but still they have to be robust enough to get from your bench to the chamber without being tweaked.

If you play around with your chosen bullet, which I'd personally keep to 55grns for longer range shooting, some experimentation might show you how deep they need to be seated for minimum runout with your die set. We shot M16A1's at 500 yds a lot, and the 55's were barely stabilized enough out there with the 1-12 (I think that's what they were) twist...and NOT stabilized enough in the cold damp morning relay.

My Bushmaster Varminter absolutely LOVES 53 SMK's over 26 grns of 335. Shoots 10 into .4" if I do my part at 100yds. That is with a 1-9 barrel....so having such a slow twist might thwart your attempts at heavier bullets...but you'll not know until you try! Nothing is cast in stone, and the 69's might shoot great for you...good luck. Just be sure that whatever you load to get that bullet runout down to .000 or as close as possible.

Oh...neck sizing with Lee Collet die was the most accurate way to load .223 for me in my bolt guns. I full length size the Varminter ammo just in case it has to go in one of the other guns.

 

[Bart B.]

55 to 60 grain bullets were used in AR15's in .223 Rem in competition through 600 yards with great accuracy from the 1:12 twist barrels used. That was back in the 1970's when that round/rifle (and its military versions) were first allowed in DCM'CMP and NRA service rifle matches.

Nothing's changed since then. 50 and 52 grain match bullets in the .222 Rem with 1:14 twist barrels were winning benchrest matches so the 1:1;2 twist is therefor appropriate for a slightly faster and heavier bullet from a case a bit larger.

Go find your favorite twist rate software then check out what Sierra's 22 caliber 55-grain FMJBT bullet needs for a twist rate when shot from a .223 Rem case.

 

[David4516]

RecoilRob, I was thinking about buying the neck size only Lee Collet die. I am told that you don't even need to use case lube with these things. I like the sound of that.

Also seating the bullet too far out and not having enough case neck to hold it in place is a problem I never even considered. Thanks for the info!

 

[RecoilRob]

Yea...the collet dies are sweet! No need for lube at all. The only problems I've seen with them has been inadequate bullet tension which can change a little due to the spring-back of the brass. If it's been freshly annealed I've seen no issues at all, but stuff with hard necks won't be holding the bullets very tightly.

You only need a thousandth or two of tension to hold the bullet for most rifles and a single shot especially, but if you find them not held tightly enough it's easy to reduce the mandrel with sandpaper and drill to make the collet squeeze the neck down a bit more. I think Lee would produce an undersized mandrel for you if you ask. You probably won't have any problem, just remember if you have any issues with them moving you can tighten them up.

Oh...and depending on the rifle and how many times the cases have been fired, sometimes they'll tighten the headspacing up after repeated firing enough that a trip through the full length die is needed to bump back the shoulder. It's very gradual and might not happen, but if you start encountering difficulty shutting the action you'll need to move the shoulder a little. Good shooting!

 

[kudu]

I have one of the older Ruger #1's in .223. It does have a 1-12 twist rate. I stuck to 55 grain and under for varmints around here, don't think I have shot it past 400 though. There are tricks to getting a #1 to shoot better by retensioning the fore grip hanger. Been so long since I did one I can't recall exactly what needs done. I have a #1 IN .338 WM that wouldn't shoot under 2.5" until I reworked the for end, brought it down to sub minute groups.