This sounds like it will work, but I must ask also what is the reason you decide to taper crimp? Were you experiencing bullet setback issues or anything? Reason I ask is I've got some super accurate and reliable 9mm going over the years and I've never crimped 9mm. Just never really saw the need in my particular weapons. As always YMMV that's why I ask.
By not Crimping I mean any extra die for crimping, just a full length resize and then seating die does the rest. I've never had to add the additional step of a specific crimp die for 9mm is what I was getting at, I realize my seating die technically does crimp the cartridge.
No proper taper crimp, which removes the bell on the shortest cases and only gives a hair inward "crimp" (.001 or .002 at most) on the longest cases, will make up for poor neck tension. If one taper crimps enough to encourage bullets to not get pushed in further it will be too much and the cases will be "headspacing" on the extractor instead of headspacing properly on the case mouth. A proper taper crimp should always be used on semi auto calibers such as 9MM that headspace on the case mouth. It is needed to remove the bell. Some folks do not bell at all when using jacketed bullets, and so have no need to taper "crimp" 9MM. I don't subscribe to the practice, but it works for some folks. If one is having to taper crimp more than removing the bell to feed/chamber something else is wrong.
Crimping with a separate die allows you to control the amount of crimp applied without effecting the seating depth.
