Reloading Table

[Lumberjack0864]

I just ordered a Lee Classic Turret Press and need to make a work table to mount it on. I have plenty of space for a big table but was wondering if I should use 2x6's for the top or plywood. Also I was thinking about having some overhang on the front of the table but did not know how much overhang I would need for the Lee Classic Turret Press to mount it properly. Any suggestions? Thanks!d

 

[kludge]

A 2x will flex more than the same thickness of plywood.

 

[oneounceload]

two layers of 5 or 7 ply marine-grade plywood, glued and screwed on 6" centers will make a formidable top. Another option I used was to take a "Gorilla Rack" (Sam's or Costco), 8' long when set side by side, a piece of stock kitchen counter top (formica from the big box store), and said plywood underneath it. That combo top was then screwed to the rack AND the wall studs. Since the rack is 19" deep, and the counter was 24", I had room for knees or for a press that hung below (like an RCBS). When assembled and bolted down, I could stand on the edge of the overhang - I'm 6'3" and 260 - and it didn't move at all

 

[Lumberjack0864]

I was thinking more about 3/4 inch plywood. Its kinda pricey for that stuff and would be cheaper with the 2x6. I just wanted to know what would be sturdier in the long run.

 

[oneounceload]

Plywood will be sturdier due to the layers running perpendicular to each other - gives strength in both major axis of direction. You could take 1/2" and double it up for less than 3/4" and have a thicker top

 

[Tilos]

3/4 ply equals $$$$$$$$$$

I just built a loading cabinet using 2x6's for the "top".

The rear of a press will lift from the bench top during the ram up/handle down stroke, compounding the flex.

I add a 3rd bolt to clamp the rear of the press (rock chucker) to the top, eliminating this lifting.
I place this bolt close the rear centerline of the press base (no hole on the press) and use a strap clamp to the press base.

Adding an additional 2x6 (or x4), front to back under the 2x6 bench top, on the press centerline, will add a lot of strength to the top and is much cheaper than 3/4 plywood.
I caulk the joints in the 2x6 top and paint it white so the little pieces don't disappear.

Way too much info...maybe I'll post some pics.

 

[MattTheHat]

If you laminate two pieces of 3/4 plywood, you can also add a 1.5" wide firring strip around the edges. It will add a little rigidity, but more importantly, it will keep the edges of the plywood from snagging your shirt every other time you rub up against it.

As for cost, lower grades of plywood can be used for the bottom layer, as well as for the top. (For the top, you'd probably want to fill any voids and then hit it with an orbital sander.

I would also recommend using some kind of finish to keep the plywood from absorbing moisture.


-Matt

 

[snuffy]

Sticky

Go here, the sticky at the top of the page. You should be able to get a FEW pointers on loading table construction there!

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=218720

I made one for my then new dillon 650. It was made from 2 pieces of 5/8 solid core plywood, glued and screwed together, then mounted to a 2X4 frame. It's stout, since I also lagged it to the wall joists.

 

[RustyFN]

My bench is 2X6 with 3/4 plywood top and it is plenty sturdy. You will want a 2X6 for the back lag bolt to screw into. I wouldn have any overhang in the front of the bench, I think that will cause the press to flex a little. Here is a picture of my bench.

 

[girvin02]

oops, wrong thread

 

[Buzzard]

Dimensional lumber is about the worst building material you can choose as it isn't meant to take those loads. It will crack, and eventually split with repeated use. You want a solid-piece material. 3/4" CDX plywood can be had for as little as $20 per 4x8' sheet. Some construction sites or home centers will let you buy or give you their scrap pieces. Even the half-sheets! You can use CDX or BC grade for the backer doubled-up, and then use whatever material you want as a top. I've seen laminate, formica, linoleum, really pretty figured Birch or Walnut veneer plywood. But if you want an end-all work surface, do the following...

Buy a 4x8' sheet of 3/4" MDF. Cut into two pieces the same size and screw them together (total thickness 1.5") then use epoxy from a home center as a top finish. You want the transparent stuff in the gallon buckets. My neighbor's workbench was built using this method and is absolutely bomb proof. You will need at least two other people to help you move the sheet, as MDF weighs a ton. Doubled up and epoxied, make that two tons. It won't dent, it won't warp, chip, crack, split, and it certainly won't move. At least, it won't move unless you hit it with a truck.

Here's a thread on the subject: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=518676

 

[Eb1]

I load with a single stage on a plastic stand from Frankford Arsenal, and it seems to work fine.

 

[BADUNAME37]

My press is mounted to my 2x4, 2x6 and 2x8 framed workbench that is about 18' long and about 32" deep. I believe I used 2x12's on the top and the front overhang is about 1".

I built that workbench over 25 years ago and it is not cracked anywhere and is as solid as can be, there is absolutely NO MOVEMENT when using my RCBS Rock Chucker IV Press, no matter how hard I am pulling on the handle. I would literally BREAK THE PRESS and/or bend the handle before that press would move on my workbench or before the workbench would break.

I used 1/2" x 5" Lag Screws bolted down through the top and into the front framing member to secure the press in place.

You could put over a ton of anything anywhere on my workbench and it would not move nor would it deflect.

 

[flashhole]

I built mine like this. The legs are the fake decking stuff (solid and heavy) and are directly below the press. The presses are attached to 5/16 steel plate that is attached to the bench top and legs. All the pressure is directly over the vertical shaft. It's very solid and was easy to build.

 

[ultralightbackpacker]

I used 1" inch plywood for the decking/top, but I used high quality Oak. Heavy and very sturdy. I do wish I would have sealed it with tongue oil or lacquer or something similar for a better finish and look. I have over 10k rounds on my dillon with this deck and its rock solid.

Take care,

 

[kludge]

Tilos, *very nice* cabinet there.

Lumberjack, one thing to notice on Tilos' cabinet is that a short span will flex much less than a long span.

On some of the other benches pictured here you also see a vertical member under the edge of the top, which all give a lot of strength without a lot of weight, like post #9 and #14.

 

[Memnok]

If you want no flex at all, use 4"x6" beam construction with two layers of 3/4" plywood for a top.

 

[Tilos]

Flashole; I've seen your bench pics before and like it a lot, mostly the freestanding, walkaround design.

I would "copy" it in a minute if I didn't share my garage with a 5 year old

I encourage him to "play" with hand tools when I'm with him, but all that storage in your design would be tempting, at eye level for him.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

Go to a second hand store and find an old metal desk from the 60's to 70's. They are built like a tank and usually have drawers for storing less often used items. They are also very comfortable to sit at and reload.

 

[tasco 74]

when i moved in here there was a piece of counter top someone had changed out.... just right thing when i mounted it to my wall with some heavy steel brackets and a 2by4 under the press for a leg....... i also bought one of the ergo knee office chairs they had a few years back..... has a padded knee support no back and wheels.........

 

[qajaq59]

The rub with the 2 x 6s is the cracks. Two layers of plywood glued and screwed works well. Or 1 layer over the 2 x 6s will also work. And varnish it so you don't get slivers later on.

 

[RustyFN]

flashhole what are the two green tools mounted right behind the Lee classic cast single?

 

[flashhole]

Those are the old style RCBS bench mounted priming tools. I have one each dedicated to small primers and large primers; they use standard shell holders. Using that bench mounted tool is my favorite way to prime cases. You have to handle every primer but it fits my reloading style. You wouldn't think so by looking at them but you get very good tactile feel when seating a primer.

 

[LiveLife]

I have built several garage and portable reloading benches for myself and other reloaders over the years.

Garage benches were usually built 2'W x 5'L (or longer) using 4x4s as corner posts and 2x4s as frame rails. Portable benches with casters were built with 2x4s and at 2'W x 2'L so they will roll through any inside doorway (common door frame opening is 27.5" with the door open) and into the closet for storage (my reloading room's walk-in closet door frame opening is 26" with the door open). Height of the bench is matched to the user's height for ergonomics. I use casters from Harbor Freight furniture moving dolly as they are rated for heavy weight and they roll easy on the carpet/don't mar the hardwood floor ($8-$10 on sale = $2-$2.50 per caster). The 2x4s are fastened with 8d/10d nails and 4" drywall screws. Presses are bolted with nylon locking nuts. Bottom shelf has another 2x4 brace in the middle so you can put as many boxes of bullets as you want there (I have put up to 40K bullets on the bottom shelf with no show of deflection and the bench still rolled easily - it is rated for much more weight).

I have used 2x6 as bench top material, but it split/cracked/chipped as the wood dried within a year. I usually use plywood or OSB screwed to the top of the 2x4 frame rails with another 2x4 added for strength/stiffness. I have noticed that OSB actually provides greater degree of stiffness and is cheaper than plywood (check the discard bin at HomeDepot/Lowes and you may get lucky too). I even thought about using two layers of plywood/OSB, but with the 2x4 frame rails and single layer plywood/OSB, the bench top does not flex and the stiffness increases for the smaller portable bench.

For ease of cleaning, I wrap the bench top with heavy vinyl sheet from the craft section at Walmart (usually $2-$3 worth) and staple to the inside of the 2x4 frame rails. To catch any spills and keep loose components from rolling off the bench top (like live primer into the carpet) I used to add a strip of wood at the edge of the bench top under the vinyl, but now use plastic trays cut around the press (I buy these at the dollar store - they are called All-Purpose Tray and used for muddy boots by the door).

This small portable reloading bench can be used just about anywhere in the house. I roll it into the living room to deprime/size while watching TV (patio for watching the sunset with wife), remove the plastic trays to sort range brass (I have a dedicated sorting deep pan with multiple boxes for different caliber, and roll it into the reloading room for focused/concentrated reloading.

Station one die hole is empty because the depriming/sizing die is on the RCBS RS5 single stage for separate depriming/sizing.

 

[LiveLife]

Two more close ups.