Homerboy
Member
Local shop has some 870 Police shotguns with Surefire forends. The forend and stock are painted orange. Probably designated as less lethal weapons. How would I get that paint off without damaging the electronics in the forend?
Removing Paint From. Surefire Forend on Shotgun
- Thread starter Homerboy
- Start date
herrwalther
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2013
- Messages
- 8,130
Ideally a sandblast cabinet with aluminum oxide blast media. Some heavy tape over the flashlight lens should keep it from getting scuffed while blasting. A fore end that can withstand shotgun blasts probably won't be harmed by a blasting cabinet.
If you don't have a blasting cabinet, you could try a heavy paint and epoxy remover like Jasco to see if that can strip it off. Make sure you use a plastic putty knife as a scraping tool so you don't scratch the forearm underneath.
If you don't have a blasting cabinet, you could try a heavy paint and epoxy remover like Jasco to see if that can strip it off. Make sure you use a plastic putty knife as a scraping tool so you don't scratch the forearm underneath.
Homerboy
Member
The flashlight can be removed from the fore end, so no worries there. I don’t have a blasting cabinet.
SterlingBullet
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- Joined
- Jun 1, 2015
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- 305
Are stock and forend plastic? If so, and the plastic was painted, you might have a little difficulty removing the paint. If the plastic was injected molded with a shiny gloss surface, paint will come off with a paint remover, but in a few spots the paint might be stubborn and require scraping, which will result in a scratched surface no matter how careful you are (at least use a plastic or wood scraping tool).
If it was injection molded with a matte finish, then there will be paint that has penetrated the tiny pores in the matte finish, and chemical paint removers will not reach all of the paint. Unless you get lucky.
Mechanical blasting with the finest grain blast material would have to penetrate the surface to get every paint spot which means your blasting technique would have to be very even to get a uniform finish.
Paint on plastic is always hard to get off.
There might be some better advice out there, someone who has employed techniques that have worked. I hope they chime in.
If it was injection molded with a matte finish, then there will be paint that has penetrated the tiny pores in the matte finish, and chemical paint removers will not reach all of the paint. Unless you get lucky.
Mechanical blasting with the finest grain blast material would have to penetrate the surface to get every paint spot which means your blasting technique would have to be very even to get a uniform finish.
Paint on plastic is always hard to get off.
There might be some better advice out there, someone who has employed techniques that have worked. I hope they chime in.
Do you care about having the Surefire forend? If not, a new stock and forend set is fairly inexpensive. https://www.midwestgunworks.com/remington-870/stocks.html
Homerboy
Member
I don’t care that much, but I figured why get rid of a working flashlight fore end? Replacing the stock would likely be easiest.
DaleD
Member
If I am not mistaken this is what I used to remove paint from plastic 1911A1 grips somebody had painted white and it worked great
MOTSENBOCKER'S Lift Off Lift Off 22 oz. Latex Paint Remover 413-01 - The Home Depot
Motsenbocker's Latex Paint Remover patented formula breaks the molecular bond for fast, easy removal of fresh and old latex paint and latex enamel from walls, trim, molding, floors, wood, vinyl, tile,
www.homedepot.com
entropy
Member
Every Surefire forend with a light I've ever seen has been polymer, which would have the color impregnated into it. I have seen orange ones used for non lethal, even seen slug guns set up with Speed feed orange stock sets for deer hunting. You'd probably have more luck painting them.
