Replacing an over travel stop in a S&W PC?

[KarateHottie93]

My revolver has a noticable bit of mush between the trigger breaking and the over travel stop hitting the frame. I've seen online that you can purchase the stops but they're pretty long. How do I swap one out?

Do I just pull the old one out, hammer the new one in, and cut/grind it to proper length?

There's chipping on the paint where the stop meets the frame. It doesn't fully touch in some of the areas where it's chipped though. I believe someone probably sanded it down at some point but went too far.

 

[Master Blaster]

The stop on my pc revolvers is an Allen screw that is threaded through the threaded hole in the trigger, you use an Allen wrench to extend it or retract it. so an Allen wrench would remove it, and you would screw the new one in.
Not sure where the hammer comes in changing a trigger stop in a Smith revolver. The old models had the stop on a screw under the sideplate, but if yours is a Performance center model made in the last 25 years it should be a trigger screw.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...-k-frame-factory-adjustable-trigger-stop.html

Edited: I was wrong just looked at my 625 and 627 PC revolvers and it is a piece of rod. I shoot these guns a good bit at the range. The triggers are good enough that I have not messed with them. There really isn't much overtravel in Single action on either revolver.

 

[halfmoonclip]

Recall those under the sideplate, and never did anything with it. (Seem to recall one that looked like it had been 'adjusted' at Springfield by filing) Actually made a trigger stop on a long suffering .38 by drilling and tapping a hole thru' the triggerguard; had to drill it at an angle due to the grip frame.
Current production larger frame Smiths (not PC) have a rod inside the rebound slide spring; you can make various lengths from finishing nail; it is a cut and try thing.
Moon

 

[halfmoonclip]

OP, BTW, that 'mush' is called 'overtravel'. You're right; getting rid of it can make a trigger more satisfying.
Moon

 

[KarateHottie93]

The stop on my pc revolvers is an Allen screw that is threaded through the threaded hole in the trigger, you use an Allen wrench to extend it or retract it. so an Allen wrench would remove it, and you would screw the new one in.
Not sure where the hammer comes in changing a trigger stop in a Smith revolver. The old models had the stop on a screw under the sideplate, but if yours is a Performance center model made in the last 25 years it should be a trigger screw.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-re...-k-frame-factory-adjustable-trigger-stop.html

I wish mine had the screw. Unfortunately it's the pressed in version that looks kinda like a roll pin. One of these right here. Someone on S&W forums helped me out last night and verified that they're not hard to press...no special tools needed or anything.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/322910

 

[KarateHottie93]

OP, BTW, that 'mush' is called 'overtravel'. You're right; getting rid of it can make a trigger more satisfying.
Moon

Lol that's why I mentioned over travel in the title. I was just describing it so people would know I was indeed having over travel.

 

[Rule3]

Recall those under the sideplate, and never did anything with it. (Seem to recall one that looked like it had been 'adjusted' at Springfield by filing) Actually made a trigger stop on a long suffering .38 by drilling and tapping a hole thru' the triggerguard; had to drill it at an angle due to the grip frame.
Current production larger frame Smiths (not PC) have a rod inside the rebound slide spring; you can make various lengths from finishing nail; it is a cut and try thing.
Moon

If you are making one that goes in the rebound spring at least make it out of a piece of drill bit rather than a nail. Better steel,
I have never seen much use to them either way.

 

[SteadyD]

I wouldn’t want one that was perfect in length because if it backed out a bit then the trigger might not be able to complete its full stroke. Perhaps that’s being overly cautious on my part.

 

[KarateHottie93]

I wouldn’t want one that was perfect in length because if it backed out a bit then the trigger might not be able to complete its full stroke. Perhaps that’s being overly cautious on my part.

I understand the logic. I want mine to have some play...enough to where I never have to worry about anything like that. There's just an unreasonable amount right now. It might as well not even have the stop to being with.

I've thought about leaving it as is because I pretty much only ever shoot my DASA guns in double action. Even with pistols, I tend to decock before every shot unless I'm focused on speed.

I feel like that's wasting the potential of this gun though. It has a perfect single action. A good stop just adds to that.

 

[Archie]

The old 'original' (as far as I know) trigger stop was the S&W installed adjustable under the side plate type. A number of agencies found - were convinced - those could work loose and prevent a full stroke, tying up the revolver. Many agencies simply removed the moving part (the block). Which is why many of those revolvers are missing those parts.

I have seen the threaded hole through the trigger arrangement. Typically it was an aftermarket alteration. I was not (still not) skilled enough to do it myself and too cheap to pay someone.

What I did was to install a steel pin inside the trigger return spring (located in the rebound slide) co-axially exactly long enough to stop the trigger movement as desired. This involves disassembling the clockwork, finding a rod of the correct diameter and shortening by trial and error; then rounding off both ends to prevent binding and reassembling the revolver. Simpler than it sounds.
If done right, it cannot jam up, cannot shift to block the trigger and will not prevent the single action mode.

 

[halfmoonclip]

If you are making one that goes in the rebound spring at least make it out of a piece of drill bit rather than a nail. Better steel,
I have never seen much use to them either way.

A drill would be more elegant, but the stop is not highly stressed; it only bumps the inside of the rebound slide and the frame stud. The expectation is to smooth the nail and square the ends.
Archie ^^^ is exactly right; it is a cut and try proposition...another reason that finishing nails are better for an experiment.
Rule 3, if it makes you feel better, it would be possible to determine the needed length with a nail, and than use a vernier to make a drill shank the same length.
Moon

 

[Rule3]

A drill would be more elegant, but the stop is not highly stressed; it only bumps the inside of the rebound slide and the frame stud. The expectation is to smooth the nail and square the ends.
Archie ^^^ is exactly right; it is a cut and try proposition...another reason that finishing nails are better for an experiment.
Rule 3, if it makes you feel better, it would be possible to determine the needed length with a nail, and than use a vernier to make a drill shank the same length.
Moon

Best method is to remove them and throw them out,

 

[KarateHottie93]

I ended up just stuffing the one already behind the trigger with JB Weld putty, but extending it out some. Then I sanded it to proper length. My OCD will force me to replace the entire pin at some point, but for the moment, this works perfectly.