Please tell me about trigger stops on S&W revolvers...

[jmars]

One of my K frame guns has a trigger stop (1967 m15), another K frame isn't machined to accept a trigger stop ('90's m19), and a third K frame is machined for a stop but doesn't have one ('81 m67).

Trigger stops limited overtravel of the trigger, I assume? Are S&W trigger stops adjustable?

Were trigger stops phased out at one point?

I seem to remember that some users remove the trigger stop for some reason (combat guns?); am I remembering correctly?
If my frame is machined for a trigger stop but has no stop, does it mean that the stop was removed?

Were trigger stops used on all the frame sizes?

Thanks for any info or comments!

 

[cfullgraf]

None of my S&W revolvers have trigger stops but then, except for a K-frame hand ejector from about 1920, my oldest S&W revolvers are from the early 1970's.

I've not heard of factory installed trigger stops either but that does not mean the factory would not do them or they may have been installed by some gunsmiths. In the past, S&W did do some custom work for customers.

 

[Col. Harrumph]

My mid-70's model 17-4 (8 3/8") does have one and it's adjustable through a rather small range.

 

[PzGren]

As far as I remember they could be special ordered on K-frames with adjustable sights, like Baughman or Patridge sights. They are generally cut out and drilled and tapped for the pivoting trigger stop and screw. Most of my target K frames have them.







On more practical revolvers, I swing it back in and tighten it really well. The trigger stop could block the trigger if the screw comes loose and the trigger stop would pivot outwards, against the pressure, which is unlikely.

 

[243winxb]

Good question. My models 60, 28, 29 don't have a stop. Only this 22lr.

Google found- http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/321275-model-19-trigger-stop.html post #5

 

[CajunBass]

Just off the top of my head, I see them on guns with target hammer and trigger, but that's not a hard and fast rule. I've seen TH/TT without stops too.

Model 15-2 from 1966



Model 19-4 (Penn. State Police 75th anniversary) from 1980 IIRC.



I've got a Model 28-2 that does have target hammer and trigger, but no trigger stop. I have always suspected someone put the TH/TT in later. The gun appears to have been refinished also.

 

[alfsauve]

I believe many people, especially LEOs, removed them out of fear they'd prevent the gun from firing. The weren't easy to adjust. I've had several with them and one or two cut for them but the parts missing.

 

[edwardware]

I think my 586 steel silhouette gun has a factory trigger stop. . . but I have added non-adjustable stops to all of my full size Smiths.

Select a piece of wire (like a nail) that fits easily inside the rebound spring. Cut overlength, and fit down until the trigger travels just enough to consistently release both single and double action.

This takes much longer than fiddling the tiny dingus and tightening the screw, but there's no question about the nail "coming loose" and tying up the gun just as the music gets loud.

 

[Jim Watson]

The version I heard was that trigger stops were removed by using agencies or left off of factory production to avoid hangups if the stop got loose and moved forward.
I'll have to go look at my revolvers.

I've got a Model 28-2 that does have target hammer and trigger, but no trigger stop.

The usual N frame trigger stop is a rod inside the rebound spring.
Like edwardware, I cut one to length for my 686.

 

[chicharrones]

My S&W 66-2 snub nose has one of those trigger stops. However, it has so much clearance after the trigger breaks that it really just stops the trigger from contacting the frame in double action pull throughs. In slow and controlled single action, it doesn't do much as it's so short.

Edit: I didn't realized it was adjustable until this thread brought that info out.

View attachment 1025280

 

[J-Bar]

On more practical revolvers, I swing it back in and tighten it really well. The trigger stop could block the trigger if the screw comes loose and the trigger stop would pivot outwards, against the pressure, which is unlikely.
View attachment 1025237

Would you please describe how to adjust a trigger stop?

I am not a gunsmith. I know the correct way to take the side plate off a Smith and Wesson, but do not do that for routine cleaning. Several of my S&Ws have trigger stops, and I would just like to know how to move them in and out.

 

[edwardware]

. . . I would just like to know how to move them in and out.

Remove the side plate, loosen the screw holding the stop, move it out, snug the screw, and check to see if the trigger moves far enough.

Iterate until it moves just far enough. Tighten the screw (and I'd suggest locktite/VibraTite).

Reinstall the sideplate, verify the trigger still functions.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

Trigger stops were pretty much limited to K frame target revolvers with adjustable sights. I have never seen a trigger stop on a S&W 'service' revolver with fixed sights, such as a Model 10, although I suppose I could be wrong.

For the purposes of this discussion, we will define a 'target revolver' as one with adjustable rear sights, as opposed to a 'service' revolver which did not have adjustable sights.

These were the days of Bullseye competitions.

A law enforcement officer was most likely to carry a revolver with fixed sights, such as a Model 10. He did not want his revolver to fail to fire in a pinch because the trigger stop might have gone out of adjustment. Not the end of the world if the trigger stop got out of adjustment during a Bullseye match.So service revolvers did not have trigger stops.

Trigger stops were set at the factory so the trigger just had a very small amount of over travel.

This is a photo of the frame of a Model 17-3 that I bought brand-spanky new in 1975. The trigger stop is a small 'teardrop' shaped piece protruding slightly into the space behind where the trigger would be. It sits in a small slot cut into the frame. The trigger stop is held in position by the by the small screw in the photo.







As far as I can tell, I believe S&W K frame revolvers began having trigger stops installed with the K-38 Masterpiece. This model was first released in 1949. This is a photo of the lockwork of a K-38 from the 1950s. The trigger stop can be seen just behind the trigger.






I have checked several of my N frame 'target revolvers' (with adjustable rear sights) and none of them has a trigger stop. This 44 Hand Ejector 4th Model does not have one.






At some point, S&W stopped putting in trigger stops. I forget exactly which year this Model 617-6 was made, but despite the fact it is a K frame 'target revolver' it has no trigger stop.

Would you please describe how to adjust a trigger stop?

My advise is leave it alone, don't mess with it. It was set at the factory and there is no reason to mess with it. To tell you the truth, I don't recall now whether the little screw goes through the trigger stop, or if it just snugs up against it. I can tell you that when I tried to adjust one a bunch of years ago there was much gnashing of teeth as I tried to get it positioned just right. The assemblers at S&W adjusted them just right, they did it all day long, and they could set one properly in probably just a few seconds. I have quite a few S&W 'target revolvers' with trigger stops, most of them are at least 50 years old, and none of the trigger stops has ever moved. They were adjusted just right at the factory and I will never try to adjust one unless some kitchen table gunsmith has messed up the adjustment.

Model 17-3






K-22 Combat Masterpiece.






K-22 Masterpiece.






K-38s.


Model 14-3






Model 19-3






K-32 Masterpiece. Notice the box says ANTI-BACKLASH TRIGGER! That is referring to the trigger stop.

 

[J-Bar]

Thank you once again DJ for your expertise.

 

[Jim Watson]

All my K-targets have trigger stops, even the. 2 1/2" 19-3 which is also the "newest" ca 1968.

 

[Jerry M]

I believe many people, especially LEOs, removed them out of fear they'd prevent the gun from firing. The weren't easy to adjust. I've had several with them and one or two cut for them but the parts missing.

Yes, the first thing that MD State Police armorer did with personal owned revolvers was remove the stop, if present. They can move and keep the firearm from firing.

 

[__steve__]

My PC 500 3.5" has a "PC tuned" trigger stop.

My other SS 500 S&W 4" does not have the guard.

but after reading, these have nothing to do with the topic which involves an internal stop, so I am editing this useless post of mine

 

[stonebuster]

Glad the OP posted this question as I recently bought a 1965 Model 15-2 that has the trigger stop. If I have a trigger problem I'll know where to look first.

 

[PzGren]

Would you please describe how to adjust a trigger stop?

I am not a gunsmith. I know the correct way to take the side plate off a Smith and Wesson, but do not do that for routine cleaning. Several of my S&Ws have trigger stops, and I would just like to know how to move them in and out.

It is a pivoting trigger stop with a cam. The side plate needs to be removed and then the screw that holds the TS has to be loosened. Next the TS can be swung out and extended or swung in and be shorter, then the screw needs to be tightened.
As I wrote before, the adjustable sight K-frames could be ordered with full target options or some. The TS was optional, like TT or TH and even grips.

 

[PzGren]

......

My advise is leave it alone, don't mess with it. It was set at the factory and there is no reason to mess with it. ....

My advice is slightly different and is based on the fact that I have adjusted a lot of TS on S&W revolvers and other guns. It is no rocket science but as easy as adjusting the rear sight.

 

[bangswitch]

Of my three K-frame S&W's, all (M19-3, M66-1, M48-4) have the slotted frame for the trigger stop, but only my M48-4 had the stop when I bought it. I removed it after the first time I took the gun to the range, I didn't like the feel, and adjusting it is too much effort for the precision you get.

I did, however, install a trigger stop on my 4" M19-3, but it's an old-fashioned type that many PPC shooters used to make, using a pencil eraser glued to the back side of the trigger and trimmed until you get the feel you want. It's easy, requires only a good pencil eraser, a drop of super glue and an emery board (and maybe a piece of masking tape to protect the trigger guard). It takes a bit of time and patience to trim just the right amount off, but once you get it done, you can rapidly pull the trigger in double action, bringing the hammer almost to its break-over point; finalize your hold and aim, then squeeze a bit to break the trigger and drop the hammer. Note, you can't really shoot the gun in single action after this modification, because the trigger travels further to the rear when cocked in single action than when pulled through in double action. Not really an issue, IMO, because if you are patient enough and trim the eraser just right, the final squeeze is about like a single action trigger release.
Note, the small amount of gunk on the back of the trigger got cleaned off after the picture was made. If you want to remove the stop, just use a razor blade or X-acto knife and trim it back to the trigger. Don't have to take off the side plate, nor do you have to worry about it coming loose and jamming the trigger. If this one comes loose, it simply falls off.

 

[sgt127]

This is a S&W F Comp. model 66.

Interestingly, the Performance Center chose to weld a stop on the trigger rather than use a frame with a trigger stop.

 

[Jim Watson]

I did, however, install a trigger stop on my 4" M19-3, but it's an old-fashioned type that many PPC shooters used to make, using a pencil eraser glued to the back side of the trigger and trimmed until you get the feel you want. It's easy, requires only a good pencil eraser, a drop of super glue and an emery board (and maybe a piece of masking tape to protect the trigger guard). It takes a bit of time and patience to trim just the right amount off, but once you get it done, you can rapidly pull the trigger in double action, bringing the hammer almost to its break-over point; finalize your hold and aim, then squeeze a bit to break the trigger and drop the hammer. Note, you can't really shoot the gun in single action after this modification, because the trigger travels further to the rear when cocked in single action than when pulled through in double action. Not really an issue, IMO, because if you are patient enough and trim the eraser just right, the final squeeze is about like a single action trigger release.

In my PPC days, that was known as the White Trigger Stop. Because the usual eraser is white or because it was first done by Mr White, I don't know.
If you wanted something fancy, Brownells had trigger stop screws with rubber tips for the same quasi single action operation.
One of the early revolver coaches had grips made that would bring the tip of the finger against wood, letting him know the DA was fixing to break and he could pause, improve his aim, and squeeze the shot off. Just the opposite of Ed McGivern who advocated a smooth continuous roll from front to back and back to front, the reset controlled like the firing pull.

Interestingly, the Performance Center chose to weld a stop on the trigger rather than use a frame with a trigger stop.

I have a gunsmith job like that, a pin pressed into the back of the trigger. It stops the trigger short of full cock; the gunsmith said if I wanted to restore single action to just file it down.

 

[.455_Hunter]

The stop is present on my 15-3.

 

[bangswitch]

In my PPC days, that was known as the White Trigger Stop. Because the usual eraser is white or because it was first done by Mr White, I don't know.
If you wanted something fancy, Brownells had trigger stop screws with rubber tips for the same quasi single action operation.
One of the early revolver coaches had grips made that would bring the tip of the finger against wood, letting him know the DA was fixing to break and he could pause, improve his aim, and squeeze the shot off. Just the opposite of Ed McGivern who advocated a smooth continuous roll from front to back and back to front, the reset controlled like the firing pull.
I have a gunsmith job like that, a pin pressed into the back of the trigger. It stops the trigger short of full cock; the gunsmith said if I wanted to restore single action to just file it down.

Lucky for me that I had a pencil with a white eraser, then. Otherwise mine would have been known as the Pink Trigger Stop.
The reason Iike this one so well, is, it requires no modification of any gun part, like drilling and tapping the trigger for the one like Brownells sold. It can be made as sensitive as you have the patience to make it, and when you want to take it off, you don't have anything to file down and have to repair.