Results of Improper Squib Removal

[markr6754]

These photos are from my Beretta 92FS barrel after allowing a range worker attempt to remove a squibbed 115gr FMJ bullet. Interestingly, I continued shooting this barrel for nearly 2 decades after the damage was done with NO noticeable impact on accuracy over normal indoor range distances.

Yes, the barrel is shot to hell...it's also obvious that no amount of shooting is going to deposit enough cooper or lead to fill in deep gouges in a barrel.

No worries...I picked up a new barrel long ago, and use this one at my workbench for plunk testing.

 

[Walkalong]

Hmm, let's hope that is enough barrel leading that the damage isn't in the steel its self.

That said......what the heck did he use?

 

[NMexJim]

If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer and maybe a screwdriver. Says something about this range's workers .......

 

[markr6754]

Hmm, let's hope that is enough barrel leading that the damage isn't in the steel its self.
That said......what the heck did he use?

He used something very similar to this. I remember thinking at the time - that point will likely drive straight through that soft bullet. Had I acted on my thought I could've limited the damge to the first gouge. Sadly, I was in shock...and did nothing. Following the destruction he said that there was a problem in my barrel that probably produced the squib in the first place. I only ontained a bore scope a few months ago...I wasn't expecting the amount of damage I found.

 

[AJC1]

The cheapest easiest route in an auto pistol is a transfer punch set. I find the one that fits tight no slop and just tappy tap. Undersized punches are a disaster in undisciplined hands. I'd also be happy to use a brass or aluminum rod that closely matched the bore.

 

[BRatigan]

I have a bronze rod for this problem. Never a problem and always the right size for 9mm and 357 to 45-70. Mcmaster Carr has them and they do no damage and can be cut to size. I would buy another barrel just for the sake of it.

 

[21H40]

Ouch. Of course, if it wasn't enough to affect accuracy or function over several more years of use then maybe it just looks bad. I'm sure someone knows a calculation that can tell us how deep and how much surface area needs to be affected to change the bullet's performance

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

These photos are from my Beretta 92FS barrel after allowing a range worker attempt to remove a squibbed 115gr FMJ bullet. Interestingly, I continued shooting this barrel for nearly 2 decades after the damage was done with NO noticeable impact on accuracy over normal indoor range distances.

Yes, the barrel is shot to hell...it's also obvious that no amount of shooting is going to deposit enough cooper or lead to fill in deep gouges in a barrel.

No worries...I picked up a new barrel long ago, and use this one at my workbench for plunk testing.

That’s painful to look at.

 

[Rule3]

But, you let the range guy do it!

5/16 brass rod

https://www.amazon.com/Suitable-Tur...+brass+rod&qid=1680362777&s=industrial&sr=1-4

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

But, you let the range guy do it!

5/16 brass rod

https://www.amazon.com/Suitable-Turning-Handles-Diameter-Length/dp/B08C9N3MP7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=5/16+brass+rod&qid=1680362777&s=industrial&sr=1-4

Seems like he lived and learned. I bet it never happens again.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

A guy at a black powder match was using an old German Commission Mauser rifle and shooting very well with it.

He asked me to push a cleaning rod with a tight patch down the bore. About a foot from the muzzle there was no resistance at all but then the rifling re-engaged the patch about six inches from the muzzle. The muzzle crown was perfect.

The barrel for whatever reason had about six inches where the rifling had eroded or corroded away.

Lesson learned: a bore can be severely compromised but it is the condition of the last few inches and the crown of the muzzle that can really affect the bullet: slight damage there can mess up a barrel with an otherwise perfect bore.

 

[mdi]

A "range rod" should be included in every shooter's range bag. A brass rod of appropriate diameter and length will remove a stuck bullet safely and easily, with no damage to the barrel. I learned this lesson in 1972 when I had my squib. I had no appropriate tools so I had to stop shooting and drive the hour back home. I now keep a 5/16" brass rod 10" long in my shooting kit. No steel tools/punches in, on, or around my guns' barrels!

 

[kmw1954]

These photos are from my Beretta 92FS barrel after allowing a range worker attempt to remove a squibbed 115gr FMJ bullet. Interestingly, I continued shooting this barrel for nearly 2 decades after the damage was done with NO noticeable impact on accuracy over normal indoor range distances..

That is pretty ugly. I have 6" long brass rod I keep in my range bag.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

We make the assumption that someone who works there (whatever whereever there is) knows what they are doing.

 

[Savage30L]

I've never had a squib load in more than 5 decades of shooting, but I have recently started reloading, and this is good information. After reading this thread, I went to Amazon and ordered an assortment of lengths and diameters of brass rods.

 

[Walkalong]

As others have mentioned, I keep a brass rod in my range bag

 

[lightman]

Wow, that looks bad. Its amazing how well a barrel with damage can shoot.

 

[Dudedog]

Those evil bore scopes show you things you might not want to see......
Ouch, sorry the ID10T at the range messed up your barrel.

 

[berettaprofessor]

That is, as someone said, painful. Yes; brass or copper rod, soft enough to not hurt steel

 

[AJC1]

Those evil bore scopes show you things you might not want to see......
Ouch, sorry the ID10T at the range messed up your barrel.

Military spotted

 

[hutch51]

Carry an old aluminum cleaning rod in the range bag.
Softer than steel

 

[74man]

The last Squib I had was because they didn't crimp the case but anyway is got stuck in the barrel in my auto loader Keltec SU!6CA. Got home and took it apart and used an aluminum rod and drove it out of the barrel with little taps. No harm no foul. Had a neighbor bring me a .38 spl with a bullet caught between the cylinder and barrel. Stainless Steel over a lead bullet the stainless steel wins every time, I drove the cylinder out with a mallet which cut the lead in half, then drove the bullet out of the barrel. Took one of the (homeloads Lead) bullets that were in the cylinder and took it apart and it had about 2 grains powder, good thing there wasn't any more powder if the bullet got stuck halfway inside the barrel, the next shot would have been a dysaster!!

 

[alsaqr]

These photos are from my Beretta 92FS barrel after allowing a range worker attempt to remove a squibbed 115gr FMJ bullet. Interestingly,

Looks like the guy used a cold chisel.

 

[rfwobbly]

I hope this person isn't a dentist !!

 

[Slamfire]

Let me tell you, with target loads, a squib that pushes a bullet two inches up the barrel will fool you with its recoil, that the bullet went out the tube. At a Bullseye Pistol Match, Old Joe shooting next to me, "fired" his first round, pulled the trigger on the second, but the 1911 did not go bang. Old Joe was pretty smart, he recognized a squib. I think he had to have racked the slide, and saw a fired case still in the chamber. I don't know the exact sequence as my pistol did not malfunction during the Timed Fire sequence. I only saw Old Joe beating on his pistol after he called an alibi. Old Joe had a 3/8" or so brass rod in the truck and beat the bullet out. The case was still in the chamber till I saw him knock it out with the brass rod. There were particle balls inside the case, making me wonder if a couple of grains of Bullseye pistol powder had been in the case. Others told me, a primer only could stick a lead bullet two inches up the tube.