Revolver Trigger Pull

[tomkatz]

I have to agree with bluesbear on this......I have revolvers that are DAO and of course that is how I practice with them......I also own revolvers that are capable of S/A fire and I practice with them both D/A and S/A....
I read this thread a couple times and was wondering if anyone was going to bring this up, or was I the only person here thinking that way.....hey, at least if I'm crazy I'm not alone, eh bluesbear?
I can get off a shot quicker DAO though, it may only be a split second but it could make a difference.....
....tom

 

[Newton]

Hey, come on guys I was just asking about my revolver triggers, no need for any falling out.

We're all friends here, let's go have a beer

 

[tomkatz]

Newton.....I got all caught up in this and forgot the original intent of the thread.....I agree with others that the newer smiths just don't have the trigger of the old ones......I have four j frames, 442-nothin, 642-1, 38-nothin, and a 640-1 and the triggers on all of them are pretty nice, the best being the mdl 38.....I had a 342 that had a really bad trigger, my local smith said he could fix it but I sold it before I got around to having it done......tom

 

[scbair]

Yes, back to the original topic!!!

I have no experience with Rossi, but my 642, purchased new, had a pretty rough trigger. I did 3 things:

1) rounded & polished the trigger face (purely ergonomic, but it does ease the "slide" of the finger across the DAO trigger).

2) replaced the rebound slide spring with a lighter weight version (from Wolff).

3) fired & dry-fired the heck out of it!

Result? It's actually pretty smooth, now! I suspect Action #3 above is the primary reason.

I considered replacing the mainspring with a lighter weight Wolff offering . . . well, actually, I DID replace the mainspring. Fired a few boxes, had no failures to fire, but came to my senses and replaced the original, full-strength mainspring. Guaranteed ignition (for a CCW) is vastly more important to me than is a slight reduction in trigger weight! Smoothness is a bigger factor than weight, anyway.

Try dry-firing extensively and see if that helps. Rent a Mikey Moore mockumentary, remove all live ammo to a different room, and . . . . .

 

[pcf]

Yeah, they don't make Smiths like they used to, but the most recent ones certainly beat anything produced in the 80's and 90's.

-When I wanted to shoot faster, the trick was to learn to slowly shoot and correctly.....
-Even though clay pidgeons and doves have little in common, shooting the former make hitting the latter easier (and after dove season those pidgeons just seem to float out there).
-My dog can pee higher on the telephone pole than your dog
-When I have a hard time shooting well at 15yds, I try a couple groups at 25 or 50 yds, back at 15 yds shooting seems "easier".

If you shoot well, variety will improve all of your skills.

Of there was only one right way to do things, well.....we wouldn't have Smiths, Colts, and Rugers to argue over.

 

[Newton]

Thanks again for the responses guys.

I would like to try the steps described by scbair, but don't want to "bubba" my otherwise excellent 642.

I'm on the lookout for a really competent gunsmith who could give the gun the trigger it deserves. If Rossi can make a cheap gun with a smooth trigger that has provided me with 100% reliable ignition, then I should be able to get the S&W to the same condition.

That 642 sure would be sweet with a smooth light trigger.

 

[BluesBear]

Where are you located Newton?

 

[Old Fuff]

The problem with using a lighter rebound spring is that this spring not only pushes the trigger forward, but also rebounds the hammer and positions the trigger to re-set in the cylinder stop. If any of this goes wrong, of if the shooter tries to pull the trigger a second time before it is fully forward, the revolver will jam. On "toys" this might be acceptable. On defensive weapons I'd think it wasn't.

 

[rick_reno]

Who shoots double action anyway?

Many of the bullseye shooters I shoot with swear by double action only. They claim it's more accurate. It's not for me.

 

[Mastrogiacomo]

The trigger pull depends on the gun more than the model or the name brand. My 686 2" and 4" have an excellent DA - the 4" more so.

The model 60 2" also has an excellent DA. The LS 36 - needs a trigger job - stiff as anything, even the single action.

My New Single Six has an excellent single pull. I tried someone's Tomcat (Beretta) at the range and it had the worst single action pull I've ever felt on a gun.

My Ruger SP is good but will send it to a smith for work, the GP doesn't need it. To me it varies by gun so I try not to generalize. Wish I had a trigger gauge to compare....

 

[scbair]

Old Fuff has a valid point. Don't "lighten" any springs without careful thought, and thorough subsequent testing.

In my own defense (pun intended), my replacement of the rebound slide spring has resulted in no problems. I first did this modification in an old S&W M19, back when it was THE state-of-the-art service sidearm and I was a LEO. I fired it in "Distinguished" qualification on the PPC, and also carried it as a plainclothes/felony stakeout officer. I've fired thousands of rounds, with nary a problem.

I've now fired several hundred rounds through my 642, also with no "short-stroke" on the trigger return.

YMMV!!! Test before relying on any machine.

 

[oweno]

I've had good luck with a good lubrication of the moving parts. Now given that lots of stuff goes on inside a revolver and you've really got to remove the sideplate to lubricate the innerds properly and I've perviously been roundly criticized for recommending that you do this yourself ... I suppose you could take your Smith to a gunsmith and ask that it be properly lubed by him.

In other, similar threads it's been recommended that you drop a few drops of oil on the inside of a cocked hammer or, if it's like a 642 put oil on the trigger when holding the piece upside down but I've never tried this. Struck me like putting oil where it's easy and hoping for the best but I could be and often am wrong.

I'd recommend Militec oil and grease (where appropiate) but there's a lot of other good stuff out there.

If you're not happy with the results, you can have more work done on it...stone moving parts, lighter springs, whatever.

Owen

 

[Newton]

BluesBear - I'm in Phoenix.

 

[Old Fuff]

oweno:

Frequently removing the sideplate to simply lubricate the lockwork isn't necessary, and in the long run causes burring along the edges of the sideplate even if the removal is done correctly. If you put 2 or so drops of oil down the hammer face and/or the hand window, along with the cylinder stop window and at the back of the rebound slide (after removing the stocks), double-actioning the trigger will distribute the lubricant. If you have one of the small "J-frame" guns, a drop of oil on the (coil) mainspring strut is also advisable. Too many people get into trouble over-lubricating a gun then under-lubricating it. A shot of air from an air hose in the back will also help move the oil around.

 

[oweno]

Hmmmm ... Old Fluff gives good advice. Do like he said. I especially agree with the over-lube problems comment (forgot to mention that) and I never thought of the shot of compressed air to move the oil around.

I'd lube the piece just like he said and see how it works out. ..may solve your problem completely w/o removing the side plate, trip to the 'smith, etc.

Owen