Rifle finishes

[Bruuin]

I'm now into the final stages of building a custom Mauser. However, I would like some advice regarding metal and wood finishes. I intend to use this rifle to hunt so a durable finish is required.

I was looking at something like Brownell's Gun Kote because it is not too expensive and I think I can do the work myself. Anyone care to offer any information on the process and results. I think I'd be getting the "brushed stainless" color as I like the combination of shiny steel and walnut. If anyone has tried this color, how does it look?

As for the wood, I've sanded the stock pretty well. I worked my way down from 120 grit paper to emory paper and then rubbed the whole stock with 0000 steel wool. Right now, I have some Minwax oil stain stuff that looks like it will work. I also have some Birchwood Casey finish and conditioner I could use. Am I on the right track here? Is there anything else I might need to finish my stock?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[rockstar.esq]

Although a little off your intended question, I'm a huge fan of a finish called a "French Gray" which appears somewhat like a blend between satin stainless and Ruger's target gray. As for how it's done I've no earthly notion, I just admire it's looks...

 

[browningguy]

First, I haven't tried the stainless color but the black on my mauser works great.

I don;t like oil based stains on gunstocks, I use analine dyes that you can get at most any woodworking shop (if you really need to add color). I generally sand stocks to 320 or 400 grit, apply the analine dye, then sand very lightly with 0000 steel wool. One of the problems with sanding too fine is that you can close the ores int he ood causing some blotchiness. Some people don't like steel wool because it may leave whiskers that will discolor later, hasn't happend to me yet though. The BC Truoil is a good finish to use on top, I've also used exterior matte and semi-gloss finish spray polyurethane, 4-5 very light coats with steel wool in between each coat looks real good after you wax it.

 

[Coltdriver]

I can not comment on home based metal finishes but I have done a few stocks. For a reasonable sum you can send your barrelled action to mac at macs shootin irons and he will do a poly over parker treatment that is just excellent. See mac at www.shootiniron.com

Depending on the finish you want on your stock try one of these choices:

First of all I recommend that you sand the stock all the way down to a 400 grit of paper. I have gone to just 200 grit and it will come out nice, but 400 grit and it will come out really nice and its not but another hours work at the most.

I have used poly eurathane. Its ok and I am sure its durable but I could never get a really good dust free perfect finish.

I have used minwax spar varnish. This will build up very quickly, three to four coats at the most and it will give you a tough, shiney and waterproof finish. I recommend that you get to a 400 grit finish prior to applying spar varnish. It will quickly mirror your sanding work. The wood does not darken up with each added coat.

I have used minwax tung oil which is actually a tung oil and varnish combination. This takes longer to build up the coats but it is worth the effort. I have never added stain because the wood darkens with every coat that you add. You can also decide if you want to go shiney or satin. You apply a wet coat, let it sit five minutes then wipe it off. Let the stock sit for 24 hours then hit it with your 200 grit paper. Wipe the dust off and repeat. It will take about 10 to 12 coats but the results are worth it. If you want satin, keep wiping the wet coat off. If you want shiney then let the wet coat dry with about your tenth coat. Sand it and apply another wet one, let it dry. At about 12 or 13 coats you will have a very nice shiney coat.

The tung oil is pretty durable if you let it go to the shiney stage and fixing a ding is very easy. Just sand and put another wet coat on.

The tung oil is excellent if you go the satin route. It really just seals up the pores of the wood and gives a nice satin shine to the wood.

If you want to stain the wood you can add stain to the tung oil for the first few coats. Then just go plain clear tung oil from there on out.

Make sure you do the entire stock meaning get the barrel and action channels as well as the outside. If you are going to checker the stock you do the checker work after you have done the finishing. If its already checkered you can tape off the checkered area.

Good luck and post us a picture when your done!

 

[SigfanUSAF]

I have had great sucess Brownells GunKote and Aerosol Baking Laquer. Easily applied, oven cured, and fairly durable. Never tried the brushed stainless though.

Here's pics of the dark parkerizing grey Baking Laquer I just did an AR in.

I refinished my HK-51 clone in GunKote matte black,

And the reciever and magazine on the G43 in matte black Baking Laquer.

 

[Jackal]

I have used the "Brushed Stainless" finish on a Chilean .308 Mauser. It looked JUST like the satin stainless rifles like Ruger makes. That said, I wasnt happy with that finish on a Mauser. If you want the stainless look, have it hard chromed. Something about the bake on or spray on finishes just feel so cheap to me on anything but a truck gun.

 

[Bruuin]

What if I just bought some clear-coat type stuff for the action and barrel instead of a colored finish? Right now, the barrel is polished stainless steel and the action is, apparently, simply well-polished steel.

Also, what should I coat with the finish? Everything except the inside of the barrel or what?