Ruger 10-22 trigger job

[willp58]

Can anyone describe the what is done differently on the drop-in trigger groups from Brownells for the 10-22?
I want to make the same improvements to a stock trigger group.

Thanks! Bill P

 

[willp58]

The more specific question is how to correct the overtravel on the stock trigger. I have the actual trigger pull down to 3 lbs.
Thanks! Billp

 

[Riss]

Easiest way to get results is to get a spring kit and replace all springs, chamfer the rear of bolt to make it work a little easier and to get the Volquartsen trigger with the set screw. No need for a trigger sear combo in my opinion. Trigger is around $20 and springs about the same. Otherwise if the gun is new, shoot at least 100 rounds and cycle the action as many times before doing the work. This will give you the feel for the crappy factory trigger and will make any areas that need to be smoothed out obvious when you get it apart. The hardest part of the whole job is getting the bolt back into the receiver along with the bolt handle/spring. The spring needs to be compressed with the bolt rearward and slipped into place. It may take a little while to do but don't get mad and beat it in. Also if needed take a little of of the end of the recoil spring ROD. It may be too long to put back in if the barrel is installed. Or may it easier by taking off the barrel first.

 

[4 eyed six shooter]

One other thing that helps the 10-22's is to put a shim on either side of the trigger assembly on the trigger pin. Brownell's sells the Ron Power shims to do the job. They make a set just for the 10-22, but if you have the Power S&W shims they work fine also. There is a lot of sideways slop on the stock trigger and this really helps get consistent trigger pulls. I can't for the life of me figure out why Ruger doesn't close up their tollerances.
Another tip when installing the trigger assemb. is to make a slave pin to go thru the trigger to hold it together when installing it into the trigger housing. If memory serves the slave pin should be .125" in diameter and should not extend beyond the sides of the trigger.
Good shooting, John K

 

[willp58]

Thanks for the info on this -
After you posted this, I looked in the Brownells cataloge and see a Clark hammer/trigger set with the set screw installed on the trigger for overtravel..
It sells for about $55.
Thanks! Bill P

 

[gunsmither]

I'd suggest going to Rimfire Central.com and ask about 10/22 overtravel and any other 10/22 questions. There are a lot of 10/22 Guru's over there. The site is down today for some reason, but here's alink. www.rimfirecentral.com . Safe Shooting! - "gunsmither"

 

[Chris Orndorff]

Overtravel?

I glued a pencil eraser behind my 10/22 trigger. Not as elegant as an OT screw, but much cheaper and works extremely well. I did install screws in my 22/45 triggers however.

 

[zahc]

Drop in a VQ hammer, leave the springs alone. Shims are ok. Put a setscrew in the trigger guard for overtravel and JB weld for pretravel.

 

[Badger Arms]

I bought a drill and tap and then drilled a hole in the back of the trigger guard, behind the trigger. This is an aluminum part and tapped really easy. I bought one of those plastic flat-head screws (white) at Lowes Hardware and cut it off to nearly the right length and practice installed it a few times till the trigger would break reliably without contacting the overtravel screw but would still stop all of the overtravel. The screws are about 15 cents each and I can always replace the screw if needed. They are tight enough just from being plastic to stay put.

The other thing I did was polish the rear of the trigger where it contacts the detent. This was rough like it'd just come out of the investment cast and slapped in the gun. Smoothing that and lightening the return spring did a great deal. I didn't mess with the sear contact surfaces. I think I'll install some of those shims if I ever feel the need to... sounds like a good idea.

 

[mattd]

I chamfered/polished the bolt, polished both sides on the hammer , polished the sear and put a piece of metal behind the trigger spring and had to file it down a bit so it would break good to get ride of the over travel and it was all for free.