Ruger GP-100 vs. Smith 586 and 686 both in .357 with 6 inch barrels.

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mavracer said:
It's all about coordinating, so since you said 6" most defiantly a Ruger GP100 as it goes so well with the 3" SP101.
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Now if you'd have asked about a 4" then I'd have said the Smith as my 686 SSR is a perfect match for my 60 Pro.
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Beautiful and very nice set you have there. There is also the SP-101 snubby in a grey finish with a different grip distributed by Lipsey.
 
Ex said:
Read this, then decide. The main argument from S&W folks is the trigger. Takes very little to get the Gp100 trigger just as nice!

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=776592

And the Ruger IS the tank. if given the choice, go 6" SS
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As far as smooth trigger pulls I remember I purchased a Colt Python 4 inch .357 in Nickel brand new for $400. Now that was the Cadillac of trigger pulls. Very smooth and it felt so good.
 
Here's my 686+ Combat Magnum:
SW686-plusbullets.jpg

I've also tried a friend's Ruger GP100 at the range, so I can compare them. These are basically the same gun.

If you just want a 6" wheelgun, get the Ruger. If you want 7 rounds and the best trigger, get the Smith. The price is about the same for both, but I think the Smith will hold its value better - which isn't an issue for me as I'd never let this gun go.
 
My own experience is not quite the same, but here it is. I have owned a Combat Masterpiece and it was a superb revolver. I mean, it was well-built, well-finished, just great all around. I later got a Police Service Six. Everything about the Smith was better than the Ruger regarding looks, machining, etc. But the Ruger was just plain built like a tank. It has become my one never-sell-revolver (other than family heirlooms). I've owned Smiths, Colts, even a cherry Webley. The Ruger I still own.
 
Shockwave has it right, IMO. They are both almost the same. I have both the Smith 686 6" & GP100 6". The Smith has a smoother trigger but not by much. Both are accurate. So my conclusion is get both.:neener:
 
I'm a Ruger fan through & through. They just felt right back when I first got into guns in the heyday of many classic S&W revolvers and the price was always much better. And though I've owned several nice S&W revolvers over the years, they always left while the Rugers stayed.

I have a 6" GP 100 of recent manufacture that is very nice in every way that I like enormously, though I believe I'm going to like my new adjustable sighted Match Champion just a bit better. :D
 
jehu said:
Shockwave has it right, IMO. They are both almost the same. I have both the Smith 686 6" & GP100 6". The Smith has a smoother trigger but not by much. Both are accurate. So my conclusion is get both.:neener:
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No don't want to get both though I have solved some decisions like that before.
Just like trying to decide between the Kahr PM 9 and Kahr MK9 and could end up getting both.
 
stinger 327 said:
No don't want to get both though I have solved some decisions like that before.
Just like trying to decide between the Kahr PM 9 and Kahr MK9 and could end up getting both.
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Get a Kimber Solo or the new Glock 43 if it's a small 9 you want,IMO!
 
Having both - Honestly I can't tell which one shoots more accurately. Weight is pretty close too. I had the trigger done in my ruger, and they're soo close to tell as well.

One thing I tested after reading this post - I set them up in a holster and drew them repeatedly.

For me, the grip on the Ruger aligned itself better with my hand on a fast draw more often. Of course - that is simply an issue of practice as well.

But both pale compared to my 19-3. If I carried any of them. That would be it.
I could break it down this way.
If I knew I was going to be shooting lots of 357's, I'd carry the ruger (less flip, and softer grip)
If I knew I was going to get checked out while shooting some 357's. I'd carry the smith. She's a better looker IMO

If I knew I was going to need to carry. I'd make sure at least one was in the holster.
 
anothernewb said:
Having both - Honestly I can't tell which one shoots more accurately. Weight is pretty close too. I had the trigger done in my ruger, and they're soo close to tell as well.

One thing I tested after reading this post - I set them up in a holster and drew them repeatedly.

For me, the grip on the Ruger aligned itself better with my hand on a fast draw more often. Of course - that is simply an issue of practice as well.

But both pale compared to my 19-3. If I carried any of them. That would be it.
I could break it down this way.
If I knew I was going to be shooting lots of 357's, I'd carry the ruger (less flip, and softer grip)
If I knew I was going to get checked out while shooting some 357's. I'd carry the smith. She's a better looker IMO

If I knew I was going to need to carry. I'd make sure at least one was in the holster.
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wHAT'S a 19-3?
Then the Ruger must be a heavier gun to get less recoil than Smith 686.
 
stinger 327 said:
wHAT'S a 19-3?
Then the Ruger must be a heavier gun to get less recoil than Smith 686.
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19-3 is my old Smith k frame. Predecessor to the 586/686. little bit lighter gun. totally different style. The Ruger is probably a bit heavier, but not so much that I've ever noticed carrying, but the Ruger seems to have more weight out at the muzzle end. The balance is significantly different between the two.
 
Although Ruger makes a durable and very serviceable revolver, I prefer a pre-lock L or N frame S&W due to the smoother action, better trigger feel, more comfortable grip, and better operation of the cylinder release.

I don't have any 7- or 8- shot S&W revolvers, but I've put many thousands of .357 rounds through my 6 shot S&W revolvers and timing issues have never cropped up.
 
HankB said:
Although Ruger makes a durable and very serviceable revolver, I prefer a pre-lock L or N frame S&W due to the smoother action, better trigger feel, more comfortable grip, and better operation of the cylinder release.

I don't have any 7- or 8- shot S&W revolvers, but I've put many thousands of .357 rounds through my 6 shot S&W revolvers and timing issues have never cropped up.
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What is a timing issue? Cylinders don't line up?
 
HankB, all subjective, Ruger trigger take little to make smooth, trigger feel ?, cylinder latch for me on the Ruger is better because of the way I reload. I have shot about 150,000 rds from revolvers and to me the Ruger is the way to go.

I have seen many S&W's cylinders fall out when reloading, barrels crack, hammer pins (main pivot) snap, etc, etc., never seen or had it happen with a Ruger.
 
Caswell Ranch said:
HankB, all subjective, Ruger trigger take little to make smooth, trigger feel ?, cylinder latch for me on the Ruger is better because of the way I reload. I have shot about 150,000 rds from revolvers and to me the Ruger is the way to go.

I have seen many S&W's cylinders fall out when reloading, barrels crack, hammer pins (main pivot) snap, etc, etc., never seen or had it happen with a Ruger.
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On the Smith's or Taurus 7 or 8 shot revolvers is it worse?
 
Stinger 327,
Short answer is the same (6,7,8). The real point is, if you are going to shoot 100 rds a month with a few .357 mag in the mix then the S&W 6/7/8 shot or the Taurus or the Ruger will all do the job you want them to do, keep an eye on the side plate screws (replace the front one from time to time). Taurus is still to this day spotty on QC, I tested a .357 from them a few years ago, I trashed the gun in two months only shooting 38spl +P at 1,200 rds. What ever you buy, look it over, take somebody with you that knows revolvers, many S&W's can be full of grit (Inc from PC) barrels not clocked, over tight barrels with pressure ring showing ( new guns this way).

Regards,
Dean Brevit
 
What is a timing issue? Cylinders don't line up?
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If the cylinder doesn't rotate the proper amount in order for the locking bolt to engage the locking recess in the cylinder before the hammer falls, you have a timing issue.

HankB, all subjective, Ruger trigger take little to make smooth, trigger feel ?, cylinder latch for me on the Ruger is better because of the way I reload.
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I'm not going to badmouth a Ruger - like I've said, they're durable and serviceable, and if you prefer them, that's fine with me. But to me - subjectively - the S&W is more pleasant to shoot. And the only - ONLY - problem I've personally experienced with an S&W revolver is unburnt powder finding its way under the extractor star and binding things up until it was brushed out.
 
Caswell Ranch said:
Stinger 327,
Short answer is the same (6,7,8). The real point is, if you are going to shoot 100 rds a month with a few .357 mag in the mix then the S&W 6/7/8 shot or the Taurus or the Ruger will all do the job you want them to do, keep an eye on the side plate screws (replace the front one from time to time). Taurus is still to this day spotty on QC, I tested a .357 from them a few years ago, I trashed the gun in two months only shooting 38spl +P at 1,200 rds. What ever you buy, look it over, take somebody with you that knows revolvers, many S&W's can be full of grit (Inc from PC) barrels not clocked, over tight barrels with pressure ring showing ( new guns this way).

Regards,
Dean Brevit
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try out those Buffalo Bore loads.
 
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