Ruger LC9S trigger job. Can't wait to "see" the result.

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rpenmanparker

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I mentioned in another thread that I let curiosity overcome my better judgement and ordered a trigger kit for my Ruger LC9S from Powder River Precision, AFAIK the only folks offering one. Surprisingly Galloway Precision which specializes in Ruger striker gun performance parts is not yet offering one. $90 for the parts. I am hoping to shorten the trigger pull, reduce the overtravel of the trigger and also reduce the distance to the reset (which right now is almost all the way back to the front). I don't really want a lighter pull. That isn't necessary at all.

Well, the kit arrived on Friday and I took it to the gunsmith (or is it armorer?) shop at Athena Gun Club yesterday. Should be ready tomorrow. I didn't ask the cost of the labor. I am too far gone to care. And as a friend of mine likes to say, "It ain't a kidney."

I have mentioned before that as a chemist specializing in experimentation for my whole career, asking questions about the universe and then finding a way to answer them is how I operate. It was only natural that I would want to know if this conversion does any good and take the step to find out.

Are you guys as anxious to know how it works as I am? ;)

Stay tuned. I will shoot it when I pick it up and report back.
 
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so its a
Measured trigger pull weight ~5.5 lbs now and its going to be what? 3.5 lbs after
https://www.luckygunner.com/lounge/ruger-lc9s-60-second-review/
Dunno. Maybe no change. I don’t think that was the intent. You can look up the kit on the Powder River Precision site. Pull weight is not the issue for me. It is pull length. Numbers don’t tell the whole story. You have to shoot this gun to understand. Currently reminds me of a revolver.
 
I'm mildly interested but really don't care too much.

For me the trigger on my LC9S is perfect as is. I don't ride the reset when working with carry pieces so that doesn't really matter.

I know I wouldn't want it any lighter on this gun.

Still, share away when you get it back.
 
I'm mildly interested but really don't care too much.

For me the trigger on my LC9S is perfect as is. I don't ride the reset when working with carry pieces so that doesn't really matter.

I know I wouldn't want it any lighter on this gun.

Still, share away when you get it back.
Front Sight teaches riding the reset both before the first shot and between shots of the controlled pair. Jus’ sayin’.
 
I'm very happy with the trigger on mine. Reset is a bit long it doesn't bother me enough to put more money in an inexpensive gun.
 
Front Sight teaches riding the reset both before the first shot and between shots of the controlled pair
Just so I'm clear on what you're reporting. Are you saying that they teach maintaining contact with the trigger as you release it until it resets?

Are they teaching resetting in series or in parallel with the recoil impluse?
 
Just so I'm clear on what you're reporting. Are you saying that they teach maintaining contact with the trigger as you release it until it resets?

Are they teaching resetting in series or in parallel with the recoil impluse?
Not sure about the recoil impulse aspect. They teach locking the trigger back against the rear of the guard between shots. Then riding it forward just to the reset. Holding it at the reset while reacquiring the sight picture and then pulling back again to fire just from the reset point.
 
Dunno. Maybe no change. I don’t think that was the intent. You can look up the kit on the Powder River Precision site. Pull weight is not the issue for me. It is pull length. Numbers don’t tell the whole story. You have to shoot this gun to understand. Currently reminds me of a revolver.

I have shot the LC9S, in fact thousands of rounds over many years. Have shot thousands of rounds through the original model as well. I have never seen or heard of any Ruger LC9S as you describe. Never heard anyone say that it shoots like a revolver. You must be confused with the LC9S and LC9. Each to his own but why in the world do you need a 3.5 trigger on a CCW pistol? And all this stuff about riding a short reset sounds good in magazines, but I do not ride any reset and have no intentions of ever doing so. Do you learn the reset on all your guns? Man that would cost a bundle in ammo for training.
 
I have shot the LC9S, in fact thousands of rounds over many years. Have shot thousands of rounds through the original model as well. I have never seen or heard of any Ruger LC9S as you describe. Never heard anyone say that it shoots like a revolver. You must be confused with the LC9S and LC9. Each to his own but why in the world do you need a 3.5 trigger on a CCW pistol? And all this stuff about riding a short reset sounds good in magazines, but I do not ride any reset and have no intentions of ever doing so. Do you learn the reset on all your guns? Man that would cost a bundle in ammo for training.
Thanks for the input, but let me clarify a couple of things. There is no confusion between the LC9 and LC9S. I have never touched an LC9. My gun is unequivocally an LC9S. It has the longest trigger pull I have ever experienced outside of a DA revolver. Not the heaviest. Not the roughest. Not the most unpredictable. Just the longest. There is no detectable reset short of full return of the trigger to the starting point. The gunsmith I took it to was polite, but said it would not be a favorite of his.

As for the pull weight, there is no desire to lower the pull weight. I don't need a 3.5# trigger. That is just gravy.

So we'll see how it goes. I can't lose on this deal, because no matter what I will have learned something. That has been the real driving force of this exercise all along.

About riding the reset. I'm sure that is a personal choice. It is how I was trained at Front Sight so I am practicing it. I don't find there is anything to learn from gun to gun. If the reset is distinct, it is easy to stop right there. The main thing is to trap the trigger as a follow through mechanism until the recoil has completed. Then let it out until you feel the reset while reacquiring the sight picture. It is actually pretty easy once you overcome the tendency to just let the trigger go as soon as the shot goes off. I hear folks say they don't do it. Fair enough.
 
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Doing trigger work on a SD or CCW gun IMO isn't the smartest thing to do. My LCP has a really crappy heavy trigger, but it's 100% reliable and very concealable.
 
I was curious so I measured mine with a caliper. Measuring from the radius of the backstrap to roughly the center on the trigger mine has .205” of takeup. From there to the break travels another .180”. End of travel is another .050”. If I rack the side with the trigger pulled it travels back another .022”. Total length to reset is .260”

So effective trigger pull of .180” plus overtravel and reset of .260”. For comparison I measured my Ruger sp101 revolver in the same manor and the pull to break is about .420”, .040” overtravel, .465” to reset.

I guess it’s too late to compare but perhaps this will give you a reference for the new trigger.
 
Not sure about the recoil impulse aspect.
In series with the recoil impulse means that you are resetting the trigger after the muzzle flip is completed, in parallel means that you are resetting the trigger during the muzzle flip. Resetting in parallel is a more advanced technique

They teach locking the trigger back against the rear of the guard between shots. Then riding it forward just to the reset. Holding it at the reset while reacquiring the sight picture and then pulling back again to fire just from the reset point.
I didn't realize they were still teaching pinning/trapping the trigger to the rear during recoil and then riding the trigger out to the reset point. It is part of the progression toward trigger management, but is really more of a rifle technique to encourage follow-through. It also helps in avoiding peeking at the target between shots
 
In series with the recoil impulse means that you are resetting the trigger after the muzzle flip is completed, in parallel means that you are resetting the trigger during the muzzle flip. Resetting in parallel is a more advanced technique

I didn't realize they were still teaching pinning/trapping the trigger to the rear during recoil and then riding the trigger out to the reset point. It is part of the progression toward trigger management, but is really more of a rifle technique to encourage follow-through. It also helps in avoiding peeking at the target between shots

Yes, I recall them saying that their trigger technique would help with follow-through and also avoiding peeking at the target. Thanks for the information. Very helpful.
 
UPDATE:

The gun is now in work, and could be ready today late. I won't get out there to get it, and the gunsmith isn't working tomorrow. I have a shooting outing planned for Thursday, so that will be a good opportunity to pick up the LC9S. Too bad it has to wait that long. I will report my impressions.
 
Dunno. Maybe no change. I don’t think that was the intent. You can look up the kit on the Powder River Precision site. Pull weight is not the issue for me. It is pull length. Numbers don’t tell the whole story. You have to shoot this gun to understand. Currently reminds me of a revolver.
my rm380 has a real long trigger pull also it was 7lbs i put a spring kit for 19$ in it and it drop it to 5lbs better but your right long trigger pulls kinds suck
 
So here is the short story result of the trigger job. SUPERB!!!!

First the cost was very reasonable. $89 for the kit and $70 for the installation even with several iterations of reassembly due to the need for fitting the parts.

The results are exactly as advertised by the manufacturer of the trigger kit. The take up is shorter, very reasonable. The pull length to break is also shorter and much more predictable. The reset is about midway back to the front and quite distinct instead of being almost non-existent. And the pull weight is reduced. I don't have an actual measurement. And the whole thing is silky smooth. The gun now shoots a lot more like my other striker gun, the Ruger SR9. And my precision with the gun has improved markedly. Now it is almost like I shoot my 9mm 1911

With the external safety, trigger safety and magazine disconnect I am very comfortable to use this gun for EDC despite the light trigger. There is still more than sufficient length in the trigger pull to relieve any concerns about an inadvertent trigger pull to discharge.

I highly recommend this improvement to the LC9S.
 
I am getting another LC9s that I'm going to get the barrel extended and threaded for a suppressor. Reason being is that I like them and in profile an LC9 has a very similar shape to a PPK, so I can play 007 but in 9mm. I may just get an EC9s since I intend to mill the top for a red dot. Considering one of these kits for that purpose since it won't be a carry gun. Not sure I want to go any shorter or lighter for my carry gun though.
 
I am getting another LC9s that I'm going to get the barrel extended and threaded for a suppressor. Reason being is that I like them and in profile an LC9 has a very similar shape to a PPK, so I can play 007 but in 9mm. I may just get an EC9s since I intend to mill the top for a red dot. Considering one of these kits for that purpose since it won't be a carry gun. Not sure I want to go any shorter or lighter for my carry gun though.
Milling the slide is the Cadillac approach, but there is a mounting plate for the rear sight dovetail cut instead. And it includes some iron sights for co-witnessing. It is made by Galloway Precision. Just in case you are interested.

Too bad you are not in Houston. You could try mine out.
 
Milling the slide is the Cadillac approach, but there is a mounting plate for the rear sight dovetail cut instead. And it includes some iron sights for co-witnessing. It is made by Galloway Precision. Just in case you are interested.

Too bad you are not in Houston. You could try mine out.

I've seen it but milling is free.
 
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