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Kame B.
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Kame-When you say your gunsmith set the gas block did he bore it to fit the larger barrel?
So the barrel is the original contour from the gas block back?
I'm with you on that one. If someone wants to buy a Mini-14, he's met with a chorus of "buy an AR"; the same for the guy who wants an M1A ("get a AR-10"), or even a thread about scout rifles, which are, by definition, bolt guns--someone will chime in with "buy an AR". The chorus is deafening--one of the reasons why I traded my AR off for a CZ-527 carbine in 7.62 x 39mm.It never fails to amaze me how any time someone asks a question about a mini 14 here the "buy a AR" posts automatically come in.
Have any of you AR guys ever considered that many people prefer the looks and feel of the mini and don't want or care about extra uppers or lowers or if the gun will function after spending a week in a mud hole?
There's a reason Ruger has been making them for 40 years. People like and buy them.
Interesting the way they do that. I have know gun smiths who fit a heavy contour barrel to the mini, then turn down just the part where the gas block fits. Or leave the heavy barrel as is, and make a new larger gas block.
Ether way, the operating rod must be modified to work with the heavy barrel.
$90 yeah I'd say you got a deal. Sharp looking gun BTW.
Kame- that 200 yard target is fantastic, Don't know why anyone would want better from a .223 semi-auto.
$220 Barrel+$90 fitting. I like it. what's the twist on that barrel? What bullet are you using?
Oh and I just noticed your join date. Welcome on board to THR! I think you'll be a valuable member here
To me, the AR suggestion is appropriate these days as AR-15's can be had for very very cheap.
Sometimes I wish ruger still made the 6.8 mini
Catpop-That skinny/heavy barrel thing aways bothered me to. But kame b's 200 yard target speaks for it's self.Great thread. Enjoyed following it.
The part that bothered me about the heavier barrel route was that it retains the original contour from the receiver to the gas block. Because of Ruger's original design's close proximity of the barrel to the operating rod (slide), it is an almost impossible hurdle to overcome in trying to install an overall larger barrel diameter to reduce muzzle whip. I've looked and measured it from every angle (I can think of) and can't see a way to get a barrel over 5/8" in there. Which by the way seems to be what Ruger did to correct the original whip problem.
I did notice in my load workups that best accuracy seemed to occur when the load was too light to cycle the action and hence not set up a moving mass as the gun cycled. But then it is an auto, not a single shot shot so that is not part of the equation.
I've enjoyed experimenting with mine and look forward to finishing the project this winter. I've achieved moa so far with my 9/16" barrel and just want to see how small of groups I can get on a very tight budget
Catpop
Catpop-That skinny/heavy barrel thing aways bothered me to. But kame b's 200 yard target speaks for it's self.
kame very impressive. Why are you single loading?
That brings up a question I forgot to ask. How long is the throat on that new barrel? On my factory mini the throat is so long even the longest, heaviest bullets I can buy, seated out as far as possible fail to touch the rifling.
You may not know if you're using factory.