Ruger Old Army, stainless or blued?

[bigbore442001]

I have been contemplating the addition of a Ruger Old Army to add to the black powder collection. I see this gun being used for informal target shooting as well as a woods bumming gun from time to time. I have heard all kinds of information about the blued is more accurate, better fit, etc while the stainless is better, etc.

I'd like to gain the experience of others here as to what they would consider to be the better gun. Blued or stainless. In all honesty, this gun will probably see only H777 as its propellant as that is what I use in my hunting muzzleloaders.

 

[MCgunner]

I had a stainless one I loved that got stolen. I found a used blue one in excellent condition for $97 at a gun shop. I says, "Is that price tag right." "Yup, getting out of black powder, just wanna get rid of it." "Well, you just did, here's a hundred."

Both guns shoot well, but the neat thing about the stainless one was clean up. I put a pachmayer rubber grip on it, would come home and pull it apart and just stick it in the dish washer. Ultra easy! I do still miss that stainless Old Army. Might get another some day, but for the price, I could NOT pass up that blued one.

 

[Howdy Doody]

The stainless versions allow you to see the crud and that makes them easier for me to clean. The downside is the glare, which bothers some, but not all.
Either way the Roogers shoot great.

 

[Zeke/PA]

Stainless or not, you still gotta clean 'um.
My Old Army is a blued specimen.
As I have stated in previous posts, it is the most accurate handgun that I own.
So accurate in fact, I often refer to it as my"Squirrel Rifle".
Respectfully, Zeke

 

[4v50 Gary]

I'd get stainless. Why? I have some blued ones already.

BTW, $97 for a Ruger is a real steal McGunner. Congratulations.

 

[LEE3370]

Blued or Stainless

Howdy,
I have, and shoot both the blued and stainless models. I have R&D conversion cylinders for each for 45 Long Colt and shoot my reloads in them. I reload with 250 grain bullets coming out at around 800 fps. With the blackpowder cylinders in them, I use 25-30 grains of 777fff, a lubed wad, and a 457 ball. Don't try to shoot the ball over the Crony without covering the display, I did and a few pieces of wad went through the display so I don't know how fast they come out.
For me, the only difference between the stainless and blue model is which finish you prefer.
Lee

 

[ArmedBear]

Stainless with adjustable sights, IMHO.

If you're going to go with a modern gun, then go with all the modern features.

The Uberti Millenium finish 1858 I got on sale still takes care (and a can of Bullfrog Rusthunter) to prevent rust. I ordered a new screw for the triggerguard last night and when I took it out to confirm which screw I needed, I found some rust on the cylinder face and the little spot on the frame above the barrel. Rusthunter and a toothbrush took care of it, but I THOUGHT it was clean and oiled... The whole point of the Millenium was so I wouldn't have to worry about it so much...

I wish I'd gotten stainless when I opted for a gun that wasn't polished blue like the rest.

Since shootability is your priority (over history and aesthetics) I'd say, get the best modern gun you can. That would be stainless. Save the high-maint blue finish for a pretty vintage-design gun with polished brass and a lot of case color, like a Colt.

If you find a blue one for $97, by all means, get it, though.