adelbridge
Member
anyone run russian steel cased suppressed? I am wondering how dirty it is going to run. 7.6xX39 AR-15
russian steel cased ammo
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wally
Member
I shoot Wolf, Brown Bear, Monarch, C.I.P, Tula, etc. all the time in my suppressed SIG 556R, 7.62x39 AR SBR and Draco-C SBR with a GemTech HVT-QD.
Don't see them being that dirty at all, 180-210 rounds per gun in an outing is pretty typical and I don't always clean afterwards -- just a quick oily rag wipe down, followed by a bore snake and some more CLP on the moving parts.
OTOH if you put them back into the safe with "white gloves" then I guess you'd think they were dirty
Any ammo will leave more dirt in a suppressed AR. If Russian steel ammo made any difference, I haven't noticed it.
If I may suggest, the direct impingement platform is not great to run suppressed. Much more residue blows back into the action and in the shooter's face.
If I may suggest, the direct impingement platform is not great to run suppressed. Much more residue blows back into the action and in the shooter's face.
Its a little dirty, I run a Lane LLC suppressor on my 7.62x39 uppers. I get the sound reduction of the SRTs with the take down option. Even in full auto I don't know that it really amounts to a lot of junk building up. It seems like you get a small build up inside the can and that's about it.
I have fired Brown Bear and Wolf .223 from a suppressed AR. I did not notice much difference vs brass because everything caused heavy fouling. There was also blowback acrid smoke in the shooters face, and I don't know if it's any more toxic from steel ammo. I stopped using the suppressor on DI rifles. There is also a point of controversy about the proper chamber seal and the extractor tension with steel, but that's another topic.
SilentStalker
Member
How do you keep them from rusting if you do not clean them after shooting corrosive ammo? I mean yes oil will keep rust from forming but I figured it needed to be a clean surface first because as long as the salts were down first then it would still rust. Hmmm...
Even if it says noncorrosive, I don't buy that wholesale. It is difficult to verify, and would require a sacrificial gun or two. South Texas has to be humid, just like my neck of the woods. I am in a habit of cleaning as if all my ammo were corrosive. I don't even read those statements.
wally
Member
None of the current commercial Russian ammo is corrosive. My guns are proof!
I also shoot a good bit of the corrosive surplus and cleaning after every outing is a must!
I'm on my 5th can of corrosive 5.45x39 and 13th can of 7.62x25, and 2nd can of 7.26x54R (not big on bolt guns) so I know the drill. Its the absolute need of cleaning afterwards than makes me shoot relatively little corrosive ammo.
If there is a place more hot and humid than Houston, I don't want to be there!
I don't shoot the corrosive ammo suppressed as cleaning booth the guns and the can is more than I want to do at the end of a shooting session!
adelbridge
Member
reporting back that I have run about 200 rounds and that added back pressure blows a nasty face full about once every 15 rounds. Can stinks of burnt powder so bad I had to rinse it with water before a hog hunt, they would have noticed it as I could smell it in my trunk driving home.
Gunnerboy
Member
False it isnt AS corrosive but shoot a bunch of tula ammo let your gun sit in the humidity for a week and you will see orange film in the gas tube and any non chrome lined part.
Beaux Nehr
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Go ahead and read that post to yourself in the mirror a few more times.
Sebastian the Ibis
Member
That's funny, I never noticed this in Florida. There must be more humidity where you are. My guns develop a sweet smelling grey patina.
wally
Member
And my wife isn't as pregnant ....
Either the primers produce salts upon ignition that catalyze rusting or they don't.
Corrosive ammo is not like the metal dissolving blood of the Alien, its more like driving your car along the ocean beach -- you'll have problems down the road if you don't wash it off.
Speaking of blood, I don't know of a easier way to corrode a gun than to get blood on it and let it sit.
dogtown tom
Member
Mine don't either.
Tula is used almost exclusively in my AK's and about half the rounds through my AR.............in four years I've yet to see orange film, rust, barrel boogers or anything out of the ordinary. (and I don't clean my guns after each trip to the range)
Primers are either corrosive or not.......and Tula isn't.
Four years ago I bought 1,000 rounds each of Tula .380, 9x19, .40 and 7.62x39...............never one iota of a problem.
Older primer compositions contained potassium chlorate, such as the FA 70 and FA90 primer mixes. I don’t know what the Communists used, but it probably was a chlorate mix, cheap and stable. Chlorate primers left an ionic residue that attracted moisture and the stuff would cause aggressive rusting. Since chlorate salts dissolve in water, not oil, unless you are using a water based solvent you are not dissolving corrosive primer fouling.
Almost all primers since the corrosive era use lead styphnate based priming compounds.
Leaving fouling on gun parts will attract moisture and create rust, regardless of whether you are using non corrosive primers or not.
If you are worried about corrosive fouling than cleaning with hot soapy water will clean that off, will also clean gunpowder residue, and won’t hurt a thing. Just get everything dry afterwards.
Almost all primers since the corrosive era use lead styphnate based priming compounds.
Leaving fouling on gun parts will attract moisture and create rust, regardless of whether you are using non corrosive primers or not.
If you are worried about corrosive fouling than cleaning with hot soapy water will clean that off, will also clean gunpowder residue, and won’t hurt a thing. Just get everything dry afterwards.
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