Bazoo
Member
I wonder if it'll make any difference with the use of vegetable vs chrome tanned leather?
I use neatsfoot oil every so often just dribble it down the threads. I will soak all around the lever and prevent rust. I work with leather and make my own wraps. I have done this for 50 years no rust on the leavers.Im planning on adding a leather wrap on my large lever on my Henry 44 mag. I've heard it could make it rust underneath over time. I was thinking what about if I cleaned it very well prior to adding the leather wrap and then applying a light coat of something like renaissance wax to it prior to the leather wrap? Would that be a good idea? adding a layer of protection. The wax is used and highly recommended by people who have collectable firearms and museum's to protect their metal items finishes during long storage. Or is something better out there?
Nice work. It looks pretty clean to me.Completed the wrap. My first time doing this type of thing. Not the best lol but I like it. One small mistake that I did at the end that I noticed but no biggie. Thanks everyone for the help.
Nice. What is the rifle on top?I use neatsfoot oil every so often just dribble it down the threads. I will soak all around the lever and prevent rust. I work with leather and make my own wraps. I have done this for 50 years no rust on the leavers.
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I just really like the look , and now that its on there it does feel great to me also. To each their own I guess. I love'em either way though.Chrome tanned leather is more prone to rusting guns than vegetable tanned. The problem is that it's getting very hard to find vegetable tanned hides. I use them for linings in my home built holsters.
The practice of using any holster for storing a handgun has long been considered a no-no. The reason is rust, forming where the metal touches the leather.
Too, I've never seen understood the reason for wrapping a lever. Paint or successive coats of urethane might prevent it, but why do it in the first place.
Good Luck & HTH's Rod
Big Horn Armory .500 S&W magnum 18" Carbine Model 89Nice. What is the rifle on top?
I was going to say that the type of leather might make a difference. For the OP's application, he might want to consider a leather substitute rather than real leather.Chrome tanned leather is more prone to rusting guns than vegetable tanned.
It was probably chrome tanned. These days, the dangers of chrome tanning are largely a non-issue but with the lever wrap having 100% contact 100% of the time, I would use vegetable tanned leather.My worst experience was with white buff leather slings on early muskets. These -- made with real buff leather rather than simply dyed -- will rust the sling swivels almost overnight.
I would try soaking a short piece of the leather wrap in some boiled linseed oil.I just went and coated it with some good old nail polish. Ill do 2 coats. It seals and dries hard. What do you think?
Yes Krylon, and I have removed/washed it off with OMS, so easily removable.I would clean it throughly, mask off everything you don't want painted, and spray it with clear Krylon Fusion. Spray one cot and within 30 minute another wiithout sanding. Fusion sticks to almost anything with no primer needed and is the toughest paint I have ever found. It seems to toughen more the longer it's on something.
That is a myth, pure and simple. If a blued gun rusts in a vegetable tanned holster, it's because it was left in a humid environment, which is a threat to any carbon steel, holster or not. If you leave a handgun in a holster inside a vehicle or garage, it's the humidity, not the leather that causes the rust. If you spend a week in the bush and suffer through a rainstorm, it's the moisture causing the rust, not the leather. If it's inside your air conditioned home, it will not rust.But any blued finish that is exposed to constant contact with leather is probably going to degrade.