GeoDudeFlorida
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- Dec 1, 2020
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We’re probably related.
S&B .38 Special, tight primer pockets
- Thread starter DanK3Pos
- Start date
ocd baby!!We’re probably related.
also use 5.0 grains with the 230 gn lrn in my g30. One can only has about 1000 grains left, but I still agree with you.
murf
had a lot of a usa cases in the 38 spl pile i just got done uniforming. Quite a few had tight pockets that grabbed the uniforming tool and torqued it sideways sticking it in the pocket. I had to treat those like I was tapping a hole: run the tool in a bit, back it out to clean the chips, repeat till the tool bottoms out on the case rim. I am thinking this would also happen with the s&b cases.
just an fyi if you decide to go this route,
murf
just an fyi if you decide to go this route,
murf
GeoDudeFlorida
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- Joined
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- 11,080
That’s about what I’m down to: 3# of Bullseye.
All told I’m doing okay on the Alliant powders I use most: 5# Unique, 2# each of Blue Dot and Red Dot, 3# of 2400… and the subs for each: 3# W231, WST, and Autocomp. The newest fastest and slowest are lasting best: 2# Competition and 5# 4100. I just got some 11FS to replace W296 on-sale / no hazmat along with Silhouette to replace WAP and SW CleanShot to replace my dwindling inventory of No.2. I’m down to single pounds of No.2, 5, 7, and 9 and Enforcer. But I don’t use them for much. I’m fixed much better for rifle powders but at 38-40gr per, when it goes, it goes fast.
Yep, chamfering the pocket will allow the primer to self-center and not crush.
I use one of these:
Primers will still seat hard but will not be crushed.
Works for de-burring case mouths too!
jmo,
.
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Have S&B primers of all sizes from when they cost 26.00. Never had an issue. Better luck to you.
I wonder if they are different. I've never seen them for sale.
Stocked up when that Clinton woman was being unconnected. If you use S&B primers, ppu brass and ppu bullets will a mini thirty be happy. No
W.E.G.
Member
AMAZON LINK $49
Product Description
RCBS primer pocket swager-2 has been redesigned to quickly remove the primer pocket crimp from a larger variety of cases than the original. Unlike reaming, the pocket swager kit forms a perfectly round pocket that is the correct dimensions for American boxer-type primers. Combo comes with swaging heads for both large and small primer pockets. This tool also features swaging rods that are made form stronger higher tensile strength Steel that more than doubles the strength when comparing to the original tool. Not for use on progressive presses. Kit contains: - 2 swager rods: (smallest is for 223 only) - 1 case striper - 1 Large and 1 small swager head (for primer pockets) - 1 swager die body with locking ring that has standard 7/8 inch -14 threads for use with standard single stage presses. Specifications: - Fits: single stage and turret presses - function: removes primer pocket crimps from military cases - Material: Steel.
AzShooter1
Member
I've always loaded with Federal brass and never needed a primer pocket to be cleaned. I loaded on a Dillon 650 at about 800 rounds per hour and the press just kept running.
On my old Lee single stage press I had to clean the primers but more importantly I had to take my time and make sure I was centered before putting the primers in the cases. Single stage = take your time.
On my old Lee single stage press I had to clean the primers but more importantly I had to take my time and make sure I was centered before putting the primers in the cases. Single stage = take your time.
it was interesting, I could tell the S&B pockets were a bit tighter, but not much. the tool would start in and start to stick, and just from experience I know I don't want to get that little tool stuck in a primer pocket. I thought about using a hand tool I've used to remove military crimps, but - it isn't great and I'm not that good with it and it works, but you end up removing a bunch of metal, which IMHO is less than desirable, so - pockets there were a hair tight won out in that argument. I figured as long as the primers seated correctly, and they seemed to - it was all good. It did take more force to get them to seat, and that gives me a bit of pause if I'm squeezing the primer to much and if it will deform and malfunction or something or go off, which would be a problem.
I'm considering throwing away all my S&B 9mm brass. It won't load in my convertable cylinder for my Black Hawk and when I resize and decap S&B brass it pushes the decapping pin up through the top of the sizing die. The primers must be darn tight.
Stan
Soonerpesek
Member
…. or a smaller flash hole than your decapping pin…?
LV Gun
Member
I have had the same problem with S&B brass I just use my Lee primer pocket swager and that usually works if it doesn’t I just scrap them.
bfalcon00
Member
Yeah this is what I do or I guess did with my 38 special S&B brass. Ran them through my Dillon super swage and it has been great brass ever since.
I know the Dillon super swage gets given a hard time quite a bit. I love the geometry on the swage pins though. One pass through that thing and I never have another problem with the primer pocket on that piece of brass. Other than the pockets growing too large that is.
N555
Member
Tickling the primer pockets with a new Phillips #2 bit would be the roughly $0 solution to widening it out enough to get the primers started.
Now that I have the cool toys I set aside the s&b and run them through my Dillion super swage when a nice pile accumulates.
Now that I have the cool toys I set aside the s&b and run them through my Dillion super swage when a nice pile accumulates.
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