S&W 43c sticky extraction tip

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I've had sticky extraction in my otherwise-great 43c, and no luck with a few different ammo brands.

While doing ball-and-dummy drills today, I noticed that when the firing pin hit the spent cases a second time, it seemed to knock them loose enough to make extraction a lot easier. Hurray for ball-and-dummy drills!

So if you don't mind pulling the trigger eight more times after shooting each cylinder, that might solve your sticky extraction, and it seems easier/safer than smacking the ejector rod on a bench or polishing out the chambers.

(I'm assuming that it's not bad for the firing pin to hit a spent .22 case one extra time in the same spot. I've heard that hitting the brass rim several times without rotating the case might cause work-hardening of the brass and beat up the firing pin, but I'm hoping once per case is no big deal. If anyone knows more, chime in.)
 
I have several 43c revolvers and none exhibit the problem you are having. Hope you are able to work through it. They are such fine revolvers.

BOARHUNTER
 
I had sticky chambers on my S&W 17-3. Regardless of cleaning, hotter .22 rounds, even nickel plated Stinger cases would stick.
I disassembled the cylinder and using a .22 bore mop with Flitz polish spun by my drill driver I polished each chamber. It didn’t take much, just a few seconds in each chamber and my sticky case problem went away.
 
My 6” Model 48-3 .22 WMR must have gorilla glue infused in the chambers. Shoot any more than 12 in a day without a full bore-brush scrubbing between cylinders-full and it was locked up tight.

Like @Pat Riot I cleaned up the chambers, but I used an 800 grit .22 WMR chamber honing tool and oil in my drill press to finally loosen the grip enough to extract cases after firing.

My Model 34, 18 and Dan Wesson .22 LR also needed chambers honed to extract without stickiness. My Model 17-3 and 48-4” have always been perfect in the extraction department. :thumbup:

Good luck! :)

Stay safe.
 
...
While doing ball-and-dummy drills today, I noticed that when the firing pin hit the spent cases a second time, it seemed to knock them loose enough to make extraction a lot easier. Hurray for ball-and-dummy drills!
...
Your description of stuck casings and your method for dealing with them makes perfect sense. However, if you polish the chambers like detailed in other posts in this thread I'm betting you won't need to use your method of jarring those casing sloose any more. Flitz would be my method of choice.
 
If you aren't happy after trying a little gentle polishing, be in touch with Smith. They will take care of it.
One caveat; they are in the process of getting out of town in Springfield, so they may not be able to help you right away.
Moon
 
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