S&W color case finish...what do you think?

[eflatminor]

I'm thinking about picking up a new S&W revolver (can one have too many?!). I saw a Model 36 Classic .38 snubnose (1 7/8") with a color case finish. I've only seen this type of finish before on old-style six shooters. I kind of like the look. Anyone have an opinion on these new old-style revolvers (I think they call them 'Classic') and color case finishes in general?

While we're talking finishes, why don't new revolvers with a traditional blue finish have the georgeous luster of my father's old S&W and Colt revolvers? Is it just economic or is there another reason for the rather plain looking blued finishes of today?

 

[highorder]

I have fondled samples of the new S&W's and they look great! nice swirls and good colors.

as for the lack of quality bluing these days, you nailed it. anybody can dip a gun in a tank of caustic salts, but quality metal polishers are in short supply. almost no one is doing nice bluing from the factory, but there are a few places that will give you the kind of bluing you want on a custom finish basis.

 

[Brian Williams]

First the Case hardening on the S&W heritage series is just a color job and not true case hardening.

Second it is economic, it costs a lot of money and time to learn to polish and train up Master polishers and it takes a good bit of time to then polish the frame to any great level of polish once you have a master polisher.

 

[highorder]

Brian, if its not a true case hardening job, (and I believe you ), how is it done?

the only way I know to achieve that look is by immersion in carbon containing media after heating...

thoughts?

 

[News Shooter]

Learned a little something from this
http://www.restoration-gunsmith.com/ArtCCase.html

 

[Hawk]

In another tangential question: I noticed the new-old S&Ws with colored frames and got to wondering how practical it'd be to rescue an old model then send it to Doug Turnbull for the real thing.

Which brings up the obvious question: which models would it be appropriate to do this to? Just the one's listed on S&W's current catalog or would it include random model 10s as well?

Presumably, it'd have to have a pinned barrel so Turnbull or whoever could get the barrel off when cooking the frame. Any other "gotchas" I'm missing?

 

[eflatminor]

Does anyone know how to tell the difference between a true case hardening process and a color job simulation? Brian's comments are of concern if he's right. The pistol is too expensive for it to have a finish treatment that isn't the real thing.

Thanks Hawk for the head's up about Doug Turnbull. I've been looking for a good restorer that specializes in old style finishes for another project.

 

[Jim Watson]

I know of no gun that S&W ever made with a color casehardened frame. The current products are "reproductions" of originals that did not exist. No doubt Turnbull could mottle and blotch one up for you but it would not amount to a restoration because it was not made that way to begin with.

 

[Hawk]

"reproductions of something that never existed" - interesting concept, that.

Too bad, Turnbull's stuff looks pretty nice but I'd want the finished product to be at least plausible as a restoration.

 

[Bullet Bob]

"First the Case hardening on the S&W heritage series is just a color job and not true case hardening. "

_______________________________________________________

I don't know about the current Heritage series, but the ones done around 2000 were true case hardening, and in fact were done by Doug Turnbull's shop - you could ask him. Rugers on the other hand are just a color job.

Many people don't like them because "S&W never made them that way". That's their right, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I like them, and have several of the one's done previously, without the dreaded lock (not that I mind that, either).

For the original poster, you could go here http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/ and search (please) under "Heritage", or user "SmithNut" and/or "Bullet Bob", and see several examples recently posted.

 

[eflatminor]

I like 'em too. Just saw another one today. Thanks for the forum link where I'll try to determine if the current series are really case hardened or not. Can't do anything about the lock if I want a new one, correct? I just find it...offensive. Where weapons are called for to be secured, they should be locked away entirely. An integral lock is therefore unnecessary...and I can always remove a firing pin if you really want to render it unfireable. I also think integral locks are dangerous in the wrong hands. If one has a child that one cannot trust with a weapon, a lock isn't going to keep that child from brandishing that gun in front of someone with an unlocked pistol. Integral locks give a false sense of security to the ignorant.

 

[Old Fuff]

Off hand, and without checking, I believe that the classic series that are color case hardened have been finished with a true bone & charcoal process by Doug Turnbull under contract with Smith & Wesson. In general the process is the same as the one formally used on older S&W hammers and triggers.

The lock has not been incorporated in those models that have enclosed hammers and grip safeties. Otherwise yes - including the model 36.

It is true that S&W never made a case hardened frame prior to the ones under discussion. However they are offering full blue and nickel plate in addition to the case hardened ones.

 

[highorder]

my question still stands; how do you fake a case color pattern?

I have spent a fair bit of time in the knifemaking world, and am no stranger to putting flame to steel; colors are created in the tempering process, but that isnt conducive to receiver strength.

 

[eflatminor]

Thanks all. I'm going to go for one of the case hardened models. I'd like to carry this little gun and I bet it will wear nicely or at least less perceptibly compared to a more uniform blued finish. Something different anyway.

 

[Gator]

...how do you fake a case color pattern?

I don't know what the chemicals are, but the Ruger case coloring just coats the surface of the steel, then a clear coat is applied to protect it. Once the clear coat wears away the case colors will wear away too. The finish is cosmetic only. Ruger receivers are hard enough on their own and don't need a true case hardened surface.

The S&Ws have real color case hardened finishes.

 

[Brian Williams]

Yes I stand or sit corrected, the S&Ws were done by Turnball. The Rugers are the ones who are painted.