Gun Master
Member
Is it safe to fire .38 Sp. +P ammo in S&W M&P models made in or about 1940 or 1941 ?
If not, what type ammo is safe?
Thanks.
If not, what type ammo is safe?
Thanks.
If the gun is structurally sound there is absolutely no reason not to shoot and carry it. The gun can easily handle today's plus p loads. If he had a box of 70's super vel rounds than I'd advice caution. It is a betrayal to history and the men that crafted and carried these weapons to let them rot in a safe.Manufactured in 1940/41?
Would you want your 70 year old plus granma running triathlons?
I am specifically stating that today's plus p loads are equal to the standard loads of yore. The gun was designed for standard loads so logic dictates that if today's plus p loads are equal to the old standard and today's standard is even less then today's plus will NOT accelerate wear on the gun like people believe. If you shoot the old timer plus p loads or hot .38 loads then absolutely the gun can shoot loose or even blow up depending on the charge. But for today's loads, the gun will be fine. For heaven's sake people are shooting guns made from the 1800s the damn 1940s was not truly that long ago in the big scheme of time.I think what most are saying, is that since +P was introduced, they have lowered the loading now to what was nearer the standard load. You won't blow up the gun, but you might loosen the screws and fittings with a steady diet of +P. For guns shot less often, like in a drawer beside the bed, it wouldn't hurt to have 6 rounds of +P.
Right guys ?
I agree with using lead bullets. Preferably some sort of flat as opposed to RN, Keith SWC is the favorite.Who knows what and why the factory is doing, but they do seem rather soft.
But for the handloader, things haven't changed much. Data in Lyman 49 of 2008 is not significantly different from Lyman 44 of 1967. 2008 velocities are a bit lower because they were using a 4" vented pressure test barrel instead of a real 6" revolver. If you want the old standard of a 158 at 850 fps, 3.5 grains of Bullseye should still do it for you.
I think the best thing to do for full power in a .38 is to use lead bullets. The friction of a jacket can sap a lot of energy when you are operating at black powder levels, which is where the .38 Special started out. One shooter got 967 fps with black, although out of a 7.5" barrel.
Unless you just like tinkering with alloy, lube, and diameter, the now-common coated lead bullet seems the way to go.
Guess that would just depend on the application for the weapon. I've used Keith SWC for coup de grace shots on a couple of deer. They work great for coyotes and racoons as well. Never had to shoot a man with that load and I hope I never have toUnless you are shooting at man or beast, there is no reason to avoid the roundnose.
As Phil Sharpe said, the true Keith SWC is heavy with long bearing surface and will not deliver the velocity of the Sharpe design. Or other makes meant to seat short enough for .357 Magnum.
Would that affect the zero of a fixed sight revolver? Probably not much.
Unless you are shooting at man or beast, there is no reason to avoid the roundnose.
As Phil Sharpe said, the true Keith SWC is heavy with long bearing surface and will not deliver the velocity of the Sharpe design. Or other makes meant to seat short enough for .357 Magnum.
Would that affect the zero of a fixed sight revolver? Probably not much.