S&W Revolver Caliber Conversion?

[Peter M. Eick]

I am starting to get interested in the idea of building up a blued steel 10mm 6.5" (or so) barreled revolver. I know I can search around and find a used stainless S&W 610, but I really want to get a blued steel version. I have decided that I really just do not like stainless guns to much for purely cosmetic reasons.

So, can someone with more experience at such things tell me if it would be possible to go pick up an older S&W 29, and then have it re-cylindered and barreled to 10mm?

I looked at the Cylinder and Slide web-site and it appears that they could do the work (conversion to moon clips, rebarreling, re-cylindering, action job, all of the bells and whistles etc) if I could get a barrel and cylinder.

Any opinions on this idea? Also any suggestions on a good smith to do the work?

As an aside, I know I could go get a 41 mag or hot load my 357 mags to get a similar performance, but the 10mm round is my favorite and I reload for 5 different 10mm auto's right now. I really do not want to get into a 41 mag right now and bullet weights seem limited.

Anyway, thanks in advance.

 

[AC]

You can have a new cylinder made but that is very expensive.

A smarter way to go about this might be to find a M28 .357 and have the cylinder rechambered and relieved at the back for those clips. Then have the original barrel rebored to 10mm. I don't know if there is enough metal to do this but maybe a M586 would work for this conversion.

Even doing it on the cheap as I've described is going to be expensive.

I would be inclined, wherever you get this done, to have it line-bored. This basically ensures proper chamber/barrel alignment. It, too, is expensive but on a custom revolver like this you don't want to sink a lot of money into it only to get mediocre accuracy.

 

[Gewehr98]

Sounds neat!

How's the availability of 610 moon clips?

A donor L-frame .357 cylinder shouldn't be too difficult to come by. Neither would an appropriate barrel blank. If Cylinder and Slide can't do the job, perhaps folks like Jack Weigand or 10-Ring Precision could.

When I built a Steel Challenge revolver out of a derelict .38 S&W Lend Lease M1905 years ago, I found out that S&W will NOT sell the end user replacement cylinders. You may just have to use a donor .357 L-Frame or N-Frame gun, to include the frame and cylinder.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Ok,

So Smith may not sell me a cylinder, but I want an N frame size gun.

What about an old 38/44 heavy duty which would get me a cylinder I could re-bore, and then I just have to find a barrel.

Do you think the old 38/44 heat treatment would take a 10mm round?

 

[Standing Wolf]

It might be worth your while to contact the good folks at http://www.clarkcustomguns.com

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I will try to call them over the next few days.

I am currently just trying to get my possiblities together and see how feasible this is.

 

[Old Fuff]

I wouldn’t try to make this conversion on an old .38/44 Heavy Duty. The barrel walls would end up pretty thin, and the cylinders were not made to Magnum specifications.

Your best bet would be to find an “N†frame .357 Magnum (models 27, 28, etc.) and have the cylinder rechambered and the barrel bored and rifled to 10mm. All of this could be done, but it would likely be expensive. It might cost a lot less to simply buy a good, used model 610 and have it refinished in blue. That can be done.

 

[Old Fuff]

SaxonPig:

Anodizing is a process normally applied to aluminum, not steel. Ruger’s blued guns are made from high-carbon, not stainless steel. However the blued guns do have stainless lockwork in many cases, and the aluminum grip-frames, ejector tubes and rear sight bases used on blued single actions’ are anodized blue-black to match the rest of the gun.

 

[Dave T]

Please don't ruin a classic 38/44 trying to accomplish this, in fact if you have one let me know. Maybe we can work out some kind of deal.

There are so many used Model 28/27s out there it makes no sense. And, the Magnums haver better cylinders for the task (better heat treat). Also, I think you would be better off with a replacement barrel made from a 40 caliber blank than reboring a tapered 28/27 barrel.

Just another opinion to consider.

 

[Old Fuff]

SaxonPig:

I didn't mean to rattle your chain - I was just afraid that Peter might buy a stainless steel revolver and then try to have it anodized. Stainless steel can be blackened, but by using different processes. You weren't wrong, you just pick the wrong method to get the job done.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

I thought about refinishing a 610, but decided that is not what I really want. I am after a good quality blued steel 10mm so this is now a project gun.

Yes I admit this is going to be expensive and frankly a waste of time and money but in this hobby that is what guns are about.

The more I get interested in this the more fun it becomes. So the 38/44 is out and now I should settle on a good 28/27. Ok, I admit that I know little about smiths (mostly a colt/dan wesson fan). The 27/28's are N framed blued steel right?

Looks like I will start searching for a pristine 27/28 to rebuild.

Thanks for the interest and keep up the suggestions.

 

[Jim Watson]

Why pristine?
S&W doesn't make M27 or M28 anymore, the collectors will pay good money for a nice one.
Start with a used one, you are rechambering the cylinder and replacing the barrel, just as well get it refinished to match while you are at it.

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Why pristine? I want the gun to look good when it is done. I do not want and nicks or scratches or the like. I would not take a NIB one to do the work to, but I want at least a 98% one that shows little wear and tear.

 

[Old Fuff]

Peter:

The model 27 was Smith & Wesson's top-of-the-line revolver for years. Extra care was taken when it was assembled and it had a number of deluxe cosmetic touches that couldn't be had on any other gun.

The model 28 Highway Patrolman was made for law enforcement agencies that wanted a .357 Magnum but couldn't afford the extra touches. In other words, a "Plain-Jane" model 27.

Other then this, both guns are identical - 357 Magnums made on the "N" frame. Either would do for what you want, but considering that this is going to be a project - and an expensive one at that, I'd start with a model 27 and go first class all the way.

So far as condition is concerned, finish wear won't matter - pitting and "dings" would. If the chamber(s) or bore are degraded don't worry about it. They're going to be reamed out. You can find many of both models that are lower priced because of holster wear - they are just what you want.

Model 27's will be found with barrel lengths of 3 1/2, 4, 5, 6, 61/2 and 8 3/8 inch barrels. The model 28 came with 4 or 6 inch ones.

 

[only1asterisk]

Bowen does caliber conversions on S&W N-frames. You can get a Model 28 for $225 in good shape. You can let him do the finish, or send it specialist. The price for the conversion will be $$$ but it will befirst rate.

David

 

[Peter M. Eick]

Thanks for the advice.

I am going to start looking for a good 27 with a 6.5" barrel for the conversion.

I will also start calling around to some of the smiths mentioned to find out what ball park this is really going to cost in. I am betting it will be greater then $1500, but who knows.

 

[RussB]

Just a though, why do the S&W 10mm's have an unfluted cylinder? Is this purely cosmetic, or does the high pressure of the 10mm require extra material on the cylinder???

 

[Peter M. Eick]

My understanding is that the early ones were fluted and the later ones were not mostly for cosmetic reasons.

To me a revolver should be fluted. It just needs to look right.

 

[E357]

Unfluted: cosmetic, cheaper to make and added road-hugging weight for gun games. But it is easier to clean the outside.

Elliot