S&W Revolver ?'s

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GETxSOME

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New to the forum, new to guns, new to life in general.. I'm Travis.

I've recently been trying to identify and learn about the random guns that are in my father's gun safe, and my quest has lead me to join this forum. I found a revolver that I like quite a bit, and want to know more about it. I've already looked through the "Common S&W Identifying Features" sticky and narrowed it down a bit.

The serial number is 7D93XXX, so I'm assuming that this is a D series K frame from 1981? It has a 3" barrel, non-diamond grip, fixed sights, service hammer, and says ".38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" on the barrel. Any information someone can give me about this gun would be greatly appreciate! If needed I can post a picture tomorrow night.
 
GETxSOME

New to the forum, new to guns, new to life in general.. I'm Travis.

I've recently been trying to identify and learn about the random guns that are in my father's gun safe, and my quest has lead me to join this forum. I found a revolver that I like quite a bit, and want to know more about it. I've already looked through the "Common S&W Identifying Features" sticky and narrowed it down a bit.

The serial number is 7D93XXX, so I'm assuming that this is a D series K frame from 1981? It has a 3" barrel, non-diamond grip, fixed sights, service hammer, and says ".38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" on the barrel. Any information someone can give me about this gun would be greatly appreciate! If needed I can post a picture tomorrow night.

First, welcome to the forum.

Second, pics will help a lot. In 38 Special, S&W made at least 6 different revolvers on the K Frame. Without a photo, we will just be guessing.
 
I'm by no means an expert - matter of fact, my first S&W was bought less than a week ago.

That said, the model number on mind was stamped onto the frame under the cylinder pin. Just swing the cylinder out, and look at the frame where it is now exposed just ahead of the cylinder, and see if there's any markings there.
 
Purely a guess - round butt Model 13.

Not in .38 Special. The Model 13 is .357 Magnum.

My bet is it's a Model 10 with either a 3" or 4" barrel.

Many people measure the barrel wrong and thus subtract in an inch off of the correct barrel length. They tend to measure from where the barrel protrudes from the frame and don't include the inch or so inside the frame.

Knowing that, my bet is it's a 4" Model 10. It could be the more rare 3" version if the OP correctly measured the barrel length.
 
Not in .38 Special. The Model 13 is .357 Magnum.

I know I haven't been sleeping much lately, but I must be in a coma. I skipped right over the .38 Special part. All I focused on was the 3" barrel. I bet you're right about the model 10.
 
With the 3" barrel and fixed sights I would say it is probably a Model 10 or 64. If it is blue then it should be a Model 10, if it is stainless steel then its a model 64. Both are great 38s. I have a 4" Model 10 at home and was issued a 4" 64 when I became a Dept. of Defense Police Officer. I wish I could have purchased the 64 when we went to Berettas.
 
Thanks for the responses!

I read the sticky, and measured correctly ;)

I am now trying to figure out how to load a picture directly from my iPhone so please bare with me!
 
So I finally got a chance to post some pics, tell me what I've got! Remember, serial number 7D93XXX..

P.S. Two friends and I put 50 rounds through this yesterday and it felt amazing. I've been wanting to shoot this gun for maybe... 10 years? lol
 

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Looks like a 3" round butt 64, which is the stainless version of the model 10.
 
Open the cylinder and there should be a model number stamped on the frame where the crane goes into the frame.

From the pics it's a Model 64. Open the cylinder and look at the model number to confirm this.

It's possible that its a nickeled Model 10, but the finish doesn't really look like nickel in this pic. Sometimes pics lie though.
 
That is a 64, no doubt about it. It looks like it is in very good shape. You should have no problems with it. It makes a good home defense as well as personal defense gun. The 64 will accept +P loads with no problems. The one I was issued had unknown thousands of +P rounds run through it. In my years I have run across some that thought stainless steel was rust proof. Wrong, it is rust resistant but not rust proof. Take care of it and it will take care of you when needed. BTW the 357 Magnum version of the same revolver is the model 65. You have a very nice revolver there.
 
Thanks a ton guys, it's nice to finally know what I have. It shot so well on Saturday I was very impressed. I'm thinking about getting a thicker grip.. Any thoughts?

P.S.
I also shot the Arminius .38 special that I found and it's sights were of by a good 18" from 15 yards. I'd feel more confident throwing it at someone lol
 
Thanks a ton guys, it's nice to finally know what I have. It shot so well on Saturday I was very impressed. I'm thinking about getting a thicker grip.. Any thoughts?

It's a round butt K frame, so there's probably more choices made for it then any other revolver.

I've always been partial to the Pachmayr round butt "compac" model for shooting if looks aren't your primary concern.

P.S.
I also shot the Arminius .38 special that I found and it's sights were of by a good 18" from 15 yards. I'd feel more confident throwing it at someone lol
You don't want to do that, it's liable to go off and you might get hit......;)
 
Yep, stainless model 10 which was indeed a 64. Here's what a model 10 looks like but mines a square butt, but look at the similarities.

l_01910317ad4d4da38c6b228dd5a5fa5f.png

BTW on grips, there are more grips made for the model 10/64 roundbutt than you can shake a stick at. All manner and I THINK a squarebutt grip for the K/L frame will fit a round butt so the sky is the limit.
 
Sile or something like that. I love it too. Very very nice feel in that grip. Many (from what I have been told) police officers used and loved it. This is a ex police officers gun and I am glad he took care of his service revolver!
 
That is a very nice 64!

Quote:
I'm thinking about getting a thicker grip.. Any thoughts?

You don't need to remove those original stocks. Just add a Tyler T-Grip.

I was just thinking the same thing. Here is a picture of my 3" S&W Model 13 (K Frame, .357 Magnum) with a brushed manganese bronze Tyler T Grip. Helps give more to hold onto and keeps your knuckles from getting bashed up by the trigger gaurd under recoil. And best of all, they don't compromise the concealability of the gun at all. Round butt K Frames with small wood magna stocks are, IMO, just about as easy to conceal as small S&W J Frames.


DSC07825.jpg


DSC07838.jpg


DSC07829.jpg



And here is a brushed aluminum T-Grip on a 2.5" Model 66:


DSC07755.jpg
 
Hi,

GOOD NEWS! . . .
Don't worry about the gun being off 18" at 15 yards . . . it's called "operator error" and has nothing to do about the inherent accuracy of that Model 64 3."

MORE GOOD NEWS! . . .
Get some competent instruction and you'll soon discover that revolver will have normal 15 yard accuracy of about 1 1/2" for five rounds at 15 yards! They are that accurate, plus the 3" K frames are incredibly sweet handling too.

The 3" K frames bring a premium price over the much more common 4" versions.

Here's my 3" stainless steel K-frame Model 65, along with some more of my favorite 3" barreled S&W revolvers.

The M65 is the same basic gun as a M64, but it is a .357 version of the M64. Someone has already posted a photo of a 3" M13 . . . the same gun as my M65 but in a blued finish (bright nickle plating was also an option on the M13).

2441844IMG1390cw2t2.jpg


Stick with that wonderful M64 and learn the art of the grip and shooting, and you'll fall in love with that little tackdriver!
 
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