Safe distance to shoot AR500 steel

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bainter1212

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Hey guys,
I am all set to order some IDPA style silhouette steel targets, so my buddy and I can start shooting steel when we go out to the desert. These targets are AR500 steel.
My plan is to fabricate some wooden stands and hang the targets via chains, lanyards or something similar so they "swing".
My concern relates to safe distance and lead "splatter". Various target retailers recommend a distance of 10 to 15 yards as a safe distance, although I have seen many people shooting at 5 to 7 yds from these type of steel targets.

So....what's the skinny?? Lawyer and non lawyer answers welcome.

BTW we will be shooting mostly .45 ACP with some 9mm mixed in. I thought some of you competition guys might have some answers.

Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
I shoot at AR 500 at 60 yards a lot, just because that happens to be how far my bullet trap is from the back shop door. I have never had any hunks of bullet make it back but I will go with 100 yards too.
 
Personally, I wouldn't shoot steel at 5 or 10 yds. That said, with 9mm and .45acp there's not much left of a bullet after it hits the steel, especially w/ 9mm. With jacketed bullets, there's a little flat disc left laying in front of the plate and the rest of the bullet fragments into little pieces not much larger than large grain extruded powder. Those tiny pieces splash in a radius parallel with the plate. Any bushes, trees, dirt around the plate are going to get blasted, but I haven't noticed anything coming back at me.

If you're not square w/ the target, larger pieces will fly off at an angle. Below is what's left of a 208gr Amax.
01-22-2013385_zps8081e6dc.gif

Erosion from bullet splash. ~5" post at approx. 2' over plate.
01-22-2013379_zps021f49d2.gif
 
The link provided above gives some great info, including the angles the targets should be at and the different effects of target movement on angle of spatter. They recommend 10 yds which sounds fine with me.

Of course, we will have eye protection on at all times.
 
i use shepherd hooks to hang my steel on they work great for
223 9mm 45ACP but i will knock them down with my 454 casull at
100 yards when you hang you steel up i use a bolt and the chain
on the back side of the target this will help tilt the target down
 
Chain isn't the best material to hang with because if you hit it (with rifle rounds, anyway), it breaks easily. I've never tried either, but I've heard old firehose and old conveyer belt work well and will sustain a ton of hits without breaking.
 
The problem with chains and steel bolts is that they may generate ricochets or unpredictable spatter when hit. I could use heavy duty steel lanyard, hoping either not to hit it at all or that it will take a few hits before it breaks. I would bolt the target to the wood, but I do want it to swing a little when hit.
We won't be shooting at these targets with rifles or shotguns so I'm not too worried about that.

Our current training regimen is to set up a whole lot of clays against a hillside. The clays are a great sized target to aim for and provide immediate feedback by exploding when hit. However the time it takes to replenish the clays is time not spent shooting.

I think we will continue to use clays in addition to the steel, just for some variation in the regimen. Also it's fun :D
 
The following is my recommendations based on experience. Use as you wish.

7 yards for handgun
10 yards for shotgun with buckshot
50 yards for carbine (7.62x39, .44 Magnum or similar)/shotgun slugs
100 yards for .308 class rifles
200 yards for .300 magnums

These distances are recommended due to safety and damage to AR500 steel. If you shoot cast lead bullets this greatly helps the life of your target. I can hit my steel plate with a 190 grain .303 British load at 2200 fps and it will not leave a dimple, hit it with a 55 grain .223 Remington load at 2700 fps and it leaves a mark.

Using a "gong" type setup greatly helps absorb the energy as well. Use a heavy duty 5/16" chain with carriage bolts (rounded heads) and it should do fine. The chain and bolts will eventually break and should be considered expendable. I replace the chain after 10-12 trips to the range and the bolts after 2 trips typically. Wingnuts are good for assembly/disassembly. Be sure to include a hacksaw and a pair of vice grips in your range kit, you will eventually need them when replacing a damaged bolt or wingnut, the threads will deform with enough hits.
 
I use C type connectors to connect the chains to the targets. I also keep a few extras handy as repair couplings. I've extruded hot lead between bolts / nuts and had to cut them off, so I started using the c type connector / clevis.
 
IMO the best thing to use is rope. Melt the cut ends with a lighter. I tie a simple "noose" or loop on one end and loop it around the end of the carriage bolts through the target plate, and secure with washers/bolt. Good nylon rope lasts a lonnnnng time even with direct hits. I have a couple that have lasted over 2 years with regular use (handgun primarily). Plus it's easy to replace when needed.
 
I just started shooting steel this past week... OMG, huge mistake.. If I'm not in the backyard dinging the steel, I'm on the internet searching for more targets... YIKES!!
 
K
IMO the best thing to use is rope. Melt the cut ends with a lighter. I tie a simple "noose" or loop on one end and loop it around the end of the carriage bolts through the target plate, and secure with washers/bolt. Good nylon rope lasts a lonnnnng time even with direct hits. I have a couple that have lasted over 2 years with regular use (handgun primarily). Plus it's easy to replace when needed.

Nylon rope, eh?? Well if it works that may be my best option. Thanks for the tip.
 
For pistol, (9mm, 40 cal, 45 ACP, 38 Super) USPSA rule says just under 9 yds. minimum. You will get splattered occassionally at that range.
10-12 yds, not so much.
The key factor is to have flat smooth plates (no dings or curves) and have the plates hung to deflect the bullets down. Just one ding in the plate can send the bullet back at you.
 
SASS matches have gotten to the point of shooting steel at 3-5 yards. Of course, this is with VERY soft cast lead bullets, at pretty low velocities. Even then, it's a rare day that you shoot a match and don't catch some splatter. It's just a fact of life.

If you're shooting with jacketed bullets at standard velocities, you should probably back up a bit.

Also, the target face should be angled downward, and be free of damage. Chewed up targets hanging straight are awful up close.
 
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