Safe installation ???s

[German Shepherd]

I have a sturdy safe (TL15) which I'm ready to install permanently.

It will be affixed to concrete on the bottom and one side, and to filled block on another side. The walls of the safe are ~3" thick steel-concrete-steel. I would like to put at least one (pref 2) anchor through each of the 3 mounting surfaces.

-How does one best drill through the safe floor and walls? Does each hole destroy the bit?

-Any recommendations on a fastener schedule? I anticipate using one or two 1/2" bolts and expansion anchors on each surface, either centered (if one-per-side) or on diagonals (if two/side). The safe weighs 600#

-I am aware of and accept the possibility of compromising the fire rating by introducing heat-conductive bolts through the insulative concrete.

Also, what lubricant should I use on the combination mechanism? I've had this safe for some time awaiting installation, and the dial isn't as silky smooth as it once was.

Thank you all for any advice you can offer.

 

[a1abdj]

I have a sturdy safe (TL15)

I'm assuming you're not talking about the gun safe manufacturer.

-How does one best drill through the safe floor and walls? Does each hole destroy the bit?

Is the safe predrilled for bolting to the floor? If so, I would bolt it there and be done with it. Drilling additional holes into a TL rated safe will be more difficult than drilling holes into the concrete floors/walls of your home.

To drill holes into your floor, you'll need a hammer drill or rotohammer. You can usually get multiple holes out of a single bit.

Also, what lubricant should I use on the combination mechanism? I've had this safe for some time awaiting installation, and the dial isn't as silky smooth as it once was.

You shouldn't use any lubricant on your lock. Do it yourselfers lubricating their locks is probably our leading cause of lockouts outside of missing combinations and electronic failures. If the lock needs to be serviced, have it done by somebody who knows what they're doing.

 

[German Shepherd]

Thank you for your reply!

To clarify, the safe isn't "Sturdy" brand, but is sturdily built, as opposed to sexy, which it definitely isn't.

There are no bolt holes. I wish there were; I would have built the strong room to accommodate them. I will need to either drill holes in the safe to mount it, or I may pour a concrete /rebar enclosure around it. I would slightly prefer to bolt it, if possible. I am a contractor, although this is for my home use.

And about lubrication, I have read that one should never lube combination locks, but this one is getting somewhat stiff. The combination unit is a La Gard, and everything inside it works smoothly except the wheel pack (or at least the outer-most accessible wheel) which is somewhat stiff. For a number of reasons I would rather not call out a locksmith. If it cannot be serviced by a careful and well-equipped novice, can the La Gard combination unit be replaced? My safe has a relocker, but the lock unit appears not to interfere with the relocker assembly.

I should add that I've tried to contact the manufacturer with these questions to no avail.

Thanks again for any further advice.

 

[a1abdj]

You shouldn't be overly concerned about calling out a properly licensed safe tech if you need to. Guys like me work around far more valuables/cash/secret stuff on the commercial side than you would ever find in a home. If any of us were going to go rouge, we'd be down the street at the diamond broker, not your bedroom closet.

On the other hand, if you absolutely didn't want to have anybody out, and you're dealing with a small safe, just pull the door off and take it in to somebody's shop. The door on a 600 pound safe shouldn't weigh any more than 200 pounds at the most, and should lift straight up off the hinges.

The price of a new lock has come down enough, that I would be more apt to simply replace the old lock all together and be done with it.

If you're planning on making the safe a permanent addition, and don't want to go through the effort of bolting or concrete, what about some epoxy? The only down side to this is that it will be a complete bear to remove if you ever decide to. The good news is that it will work just as well as bolting in most cases, and you won't have to drill any holes.

 

[German Shepherd]

Thanks again for your reply!

You got me thinking about a solution...my problem with calling out a locksmith is purely logistical. I live in a Very Remote Location, and calling out a locksmith involves a relatively high travel cost. BUT, as you point out, there are others who need locksmith services, so I'm going to contact the local banks to see who they bring out, and with luck I'll piggy-back on an upcoming service call and share the cost.

The epoxy is a great idea, except that epoxy is very heat-sensitive. You can melt most epoxy bedding compounds quite quickly with a heat gun, so I would have to plan carefully to protect any epoxy anchoring with enough mass that anything short of a major fire wouldn't totally soften it. Still it could work...

 

[45crittergitter]

I don't know, but I'm thinking to drill holes through the composite safe wall, you will need a cobalt/TN type bit for the steel layers and a hammerdrill and concrete bit for the middle.

 

[oneounceload]

Doesn't steel and concrete have the tendency to create reactions that lead to rusting? Wouldn't placing a thin vapor barrier be better?

 

[Texan Scott]

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[Texan Scott]

Good call on the cobalt/ TN bits... remember, if it's a good safe, it was DESIGNED to be &@^% difficult to drill holes in! If you drill new holes, use the TN bits for the safe in a high torque/ low speed drill, then switch to masonry bits in a rotary hammer for the concrete. You MIGHT need more than one bit for the safe, but 1 masonry RH bit should do for all the concrete. As for the steel/ concrete problem, although galvanized steel particularly has long-term corrosion problems in high-alkaline concrete mixtures, the fact that your safe has a layer of concrete BETWEEN sheets of steel (if i'm reading correctly) leads me to think that's not likely to be a problem with the steel in your safe. In any event, sealing air away from the cut-through by putting a bit of polypropylene or DOW greatstuff adhesive gapfiller over the bolts should effectively inhibit any corrosion that might be significant in your lifetime.

 

[Arp32]

Personally I like the idea of casting concrete around the base. Even better would be to cut/hammer out a section of floor near each front (accessoble) edge of the safe and cast a steel plate into the floor. Weld some rebar on the underside of the plate so the concrete has something to grab. Then spot weld the outer steel of the safe to the imbedded steel plate in the floor.

Seems like welding to the outside of the safe is better than cutting into it and ruining your fire rating...

Just a thought.