Would you be happy with this safe installation? PICS

[Beckett]

Safe installers hacked through two layers of fireproof drywall and center fireproof insulation to bolt safe to cement. Should I have them completely replace floor (which would require cutting out floor with safe in place, changing bolts-messing with bolts in the cement) or should I just have corners repaired with pieces of fireproof drywall and insulation? Does this affect the fireproofing of the safe?

 

[rcmodel]

I'm no safe expert, but if the steel safe is setting flat on the concrete floor?

Fire can't get it hot enough under there to heat the safe contents.

Was it mine?

I would not be at all happey with the installers, and would have a talk with the manager for sure..

But I think I could easily fix it myself with some fireplace putty.
http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/filling/fireproof-cement

rc

 

[heeler]

If I am getting this correct,in other words the idiots hacked thru the sheetrock instead of removing it then I would demand they replace it.
Although my Amsec BF safe has a cast cement in the walls and top, the floor(2011 + models have a cast cement filled floor) does have sheetrock but it is designed to be removed so you can drill the cement floor without damaging it.
I hate sloppy work!!

 

[a1abdj]

I'm assuming that the safe was not predrilled for bolting, and what you are seeing is a result.

You can not bolt a safe properly without coming into direct contact with the structure of the safe. It is pretty rare to run across a gun safe that doesn't have the bolt holes already in place, but when I do, I have a hole saw in the drill box that makes a nice clean circular hole. While what they did was not pretty, it's the same thing.

It will not have any impact on your fire rating. Is there a floor or fabric that covers the holes?

 

[Beckett]

I believe the steel part of the safe floor was pre-drilled. But the carless safe manufacturer did not make an access hole through the drywall/carpet covered floor for the delivery company to put bolts into cement floor of the house. The carpet on the fireproof drywall floor was pulled back and the safe delivery company hacked through the drywall to find the corner holes and put bolts into cement floor and just left this mess under the carpret. Should I get some drywall and insulation and just fill the holes? I can pull the carpet over and hide the result. Thanks, I need help as I no longer trust the safe company.

 

[a1abdj]

I believe the steel part of the safe floor was pre-drilled. But the carless safe manufacturer did not make an access hole through the drywall/carpet covered floor for the delivery company to put bolts into cement floor of the house.

I have seen this several times. I have also seen gun safe manufacturers install the gypsum (with precut holes) upside down in the bottom of the safe so that the holes go to steel, and the holes in the steel are covered with the gypsum.

The carpet on the fireproof drywall floor was pulled back and the safe delivery company hacked through the drywall to find the corner holes and put bolts into cement floor and just left this mess under the carpret.

When there's a job that needs to be done, you use what you have available. I carry a hole saw for such occasions, but they must have not had one. I carry a knife that may have cut a cleaner hole, but it looks like they had a screwdriver.

Did they discuss this with you prior to doing it? I don't think it's a big deal either way, but I would have least pointed it out. Your options at that point would have been to let me remove the offending gyspum and bolt it, or leave it as is and not bolt it.

Leaving the mess under the carpet is also typical. Unless the customer is offering us the use of a shop vac, I don't have one on the truck. We drill, bolt, and cover. The dust stays right where it is, and short of looking for it, you'll never see it since it's covered.

Should I get some drywall and insulation and just fill the holes?

Are the holes causing some problem aside from you being upset about them? It it will make you feel better, sure. Otherwise they will have no impact on the function of the safe.

I need help as I no longer trust the safe company.

Are they a safe company, or just some outfit that sells gun safes. There's a big difference. Either way, I don't see any reason not to trust them. If anything, you shouldn't trust the manufacturer. They seem to be the ones that screwed up.

 

[JohnBT]

I'd buy a tube of waterproof caulk and lightly seal the nut and bolt (in case of floods.) Then I'd pack the holes with fireplace mortar and call it a day.

John

 

[heeler]

Excellent idea John!!

 

[coalman]

I hope you did not pay for that work. That plain sucks. A professional installer should have a hole saw. If s/he did a circular plastic cap could have been used to cover the hole. My safe has holes in the floor insulation to access to holes and plastic caps to cover the holes. The void in fireproofing is fine IMO, but the quality of that work sucks. I'd protest and request a replacement if possible.

 

[Beckett]

Thanks to everyone who responded. And a special thanks to a1abdj for your detailed reply, you relieved my worries that it really was cosmetic. The safe company is the manufacturer and we went to their factory before we bought the safe. I still believe it is a great product, but they communicate so poorly amoungst themselves and with their customers it makes them hard to trust. They did send the gentleman who actually made the safe (it is 1/4" American Steel) and he did a great repair (new bottom, insulation, counter sunk bolt cover, carpet), but I had to threaten a credit card dispute to get their attention. Thanks Again, Just a Babe in the woods, with a few guns...

 

[OTR]

Beckett, I agree that this was a sloppy installation by the installer. I guess that I should be happy that I went through the hassle to install my own safe by renting a fork lift to get it off the truck and a pallet jack for $400 or the day. I was able to install a 2.5 ton safe with only the assistance of one 70 year old person and myself. I have come to the realization a few years ago that if I want something done right, I need to do it myself.
JohnBT has an excellent idea. But I would somehow leave the bolts accessible in case you want to move the safe in the future. You could get a piece of PVC pipe that is a little larger than the diameter of the bolt and cut to length desired, stick it around the bolt, and then mortar around the PVC pipe. This will leave access to the bolt if needed after the mortar has dried.