Shell holder question.

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jr_roosa

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I put together some .30-30 loads, and afterwards it occurred to me that I was using an old Pacific shell holder and new RCBS dies. I figured that I'd be OK since .30-30 headspaces on the rim, but I was wondering if I need to pick up a new shell holder before I reload another batch.

So, if you are full-length resizing, is it critical that you use a die and a shell holder from the same manufacturer, or do they tend to be interchangeable?

Hopefully this first batch got the shoulder bumped back enough to chamber or I'll be asking about bullet pullers next.

Thanks.

-J.
 
It doesn't matter anymore, and it never did matter on rimmed calibers like the 30-30.

Many years ago, shell-holder rim thickness was not standardized, and it was wise to use the same brand as the dies with rimless calibers that headspaced on the shoulder.

That is not the case anymore.
All current die manufactures conform to the same specs for shell holder rim thickness and die headspace.

rcmodel
 
About when did the industry standardize? I'd guess my shell holders are between 30 and 40 years old, as are some of my dies. Some are new.

What should be the depth from the top of the shell holder to the surface that the shell sits on? I could measure that with my depth guage.

I'm mostly curious for when I start reloading .30-06 since it sounds like the .30-30s will be fine as long as they chamber.

-J.
 
So, if you are full-length resizing, is it critical that you use a die and a shell holder from the same manufacturer, or do they tend to be interchangeable?

Hopefully this first batch got the shoulder bumped back enough to chamber or I'll be asking about bullet pullers next.

All that matters is whether you are able to bump back the shoulder the proper amount. Suggest you test the brass in your chamber BEFORE adding the powder and seating the bullet.

Don
 
About when did the industry standardize?
I don't know for sure.
I do know it was an issue when I started reloading in 1962.

But then again, folks like Herters, Bair, C&H, Pacific, Lyman, and a few others were marching to thier own drum part of the time back then!

rcmodel
 
It pays to check and if you check the brand doesn't matter.

It pays to check and if you check the brand doesn't matter.

Matching the brand is no guarantee. FREX the first production .376 Steyr dies from Hornady - who introduced the cartridge in this country - didn't necessarily match the final production Steyr Dragoon chambers:

reports that the Hornady dies are cut short and that when screwed all the way down that they set the shoulder back too far causing case separations. I strongly suggest that you back these dies out one full turn, smoke the neck and shoulder of the cases, and then size and adjust the die down 1/8 turn at a time until the neck is resized without the shoulder being touched. Hornady is currently investigating this problem.
Fr. Frog

Redding offers popular shell holders in a set of assorted thicknesses to allow the user to adjust length while butting things up - which sometimes help line things up squarely.

Moving the shoulder around can be harder than necessary on the brass with unfortunate results. That's why L.E. Wilson frex offers an adjustable headspace gage for belted cartridges to be matched to the chamber of the user's rifle.

With the L.W. Wilson gage or the RCBS Precision MIC or some other tools - Redding has a pricey one - it is possible to trust but verify.
 
You may need to adjust you dies a tad. Shell holders from different manufacturers may not all be quite the same height.
 
Will a resized case fit easily in the chambers of the guns you intend to shoot it in?

If so, add primer, powder, and bullet.

If not, then worry about the other stuff.
 
agree you need to try chambering a round this will let you know right away weather or not they willwork. of course measuing the whole case can also but nothing beats chambering the round. After that if its ok then load them and shoot them.
 
You also need to remember that the .30 WCF mod 94 and .30-30 mod 94 head spaces on both the shoulder and the case rim...Contrary to popular belief...If you accidently set the shoulder too far back watch the primers start backing out and they will...
 
Bushmaster:

I thought .30 WCF and .30-30 were the same thing, right?

I'll watch the primers and for signs of head separation.

Maybe I'll just drop the $8 on an RCBS shell holder and call it a day.

Thanks.

-J.
 
My books say 30-30 Winchester and 30/30 WCF are the same thing.


RCBS #2 shell holder measurements:

Total depth: 0.5020 inches
Depth from surface of holder to surface on which case rim sets: 0.1250 inches.

Measurements with a Mitutoyo digital caliper.
 
The cartridges are the same. I suppose Bushmaster is talking about earliler Mod 94 with barrels marked .30WCF, as opposed to the later ones marked .30-30.
 
My old Pacific shell holders mic to about .122, which at its worst case puts me .003 short. I can't really zero my depth guage, so it's probably within the error of my measurement.

Good enough for .30-30, I would say.

Oh, and I had one piece of brass that got set aside from the batch I resized and it chambers just fine in my M94.

Once I start reloading .30-06 the dies are about the same vintage as the shell holders, so who knows what will come out the other end.

Thanks for your help!

-J.
 
Yup .30 WCF and .30-30 are the same. One is just an older nomenclature for that calibre. My mod 94 is marked .30 WCF. The newer 94's are marked .30-30 WIN
 
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