Short Machete

[AStone]

First impressions of the SP 53

^ On FB (not 'full blade' but Facebook), I'd 'like' that (post 100). ^

Here, I guess I'm stuck with '+1'.

Been getting acquainted with the new blade all day.
Handling it, chopping some wood in the backyard, modifying the blade a bit.

First impressions: love it. Rocks. Rawks.
Handle feels real good; good size; fits my small hand.

Major steel. Heavy, even for its size - 1/4" -
but that's going to pay off because that weight makes chopping easier.
It has the weight of a hatchet spread over a 9.5" blade.
Balance point is just under 2" forward (distal) of the handle.

The choil just forward (distal) to the guard
allows more control for small strokes.

My mod - done with a file and stone - has been to remove the sharp edge
for 1/4" forward of that choil, for obvious reasons.
(Don't need sharp that far back on this blade,
and I like my index finger intact. )

Images to come ...

Nem

 

[AStone]

Oh, and that 1/4" thick blade means it batons like a dream.

Splits 1" to 3" sticks like a steak knife through tough meat.

 

[AStone]

Oh, two more points:

1) The blade shape - mass forward -
makes its dynamics like a kukri.

2) Scary sharp.

And I just honed it
with a fine grit stone.

It's now razor-like.

 

[AStone]

First image.

It split 1.5" and 3" seasoned maple w/ knots.

Baton is laying to the right of the split 3".

 

[wheelgunslinger]

I'm interested to see how you continue to find its quality after it has some of the shiny worn off.
But, first impressions are also useful, so keep 'em comin' when you can.
Thanks for the review(s).

 

[JShirley]

Don't put too fine/"razor" edge on it if you want to chop with it.

Glad you're happy. I like US companies that offer really good value.

 

[AStone]

I feel the same, Wheelgun. With people and tools, first impressions can be shiny, but it's the long term behavior that matters. I do think I'll start a new thread on this knife when I return (weeks) where I can record it's behavior over the long term.

John, thanks for the advice about not being razoresque. Last night, I was just curious to see what kind of edge was 'possible' easily (I didn't spend much time with it, and don't even really have a proper stone for this sized blade yet (that's another whole discussion: recommendations for a sharpener for this one), - my only stone is a tiny 4" x 1", but it's been sufficient for small blades in my travels. So I just took a few passes with it 'walking it' up and down the blade to take the burr off. I was impressed.

Your recommendation (not razor sharp for chopping) makes some sense to me in terms of blade care, but I'd still like to read your reasoning. I may be missing something else that's important about that.

 

[JShirley]

Thinner= sharper, but also less robust. Axes are sharp, but not like a razor.

 

[AStone]

Thanks. That's what I thought you meant. Sensible.

 

[JimStC]

Had an interesting experience today. Sitting on the back porch keeping an eye on my 7 year old granddaughter in the pool and bored to death. So I spot this piece of yelow pine and decided to do some whittling. Pulled out two Bark Rivers, a Kellam, a Fallkniven and my Ka Bar 1248. My expectation was that the Kellam would be the best. It was the worst. It is the puukko model. The two "survival" knifes, Fallkniven and Bark River tied. The Ka Bar won hands down. The other Bark River was a distant third. I'll admit that I have a lot to learn about blades.
Next knife looks to be the Ka Bar Becker BK-7 Combat Utility Knife. This Ka Bar is American made.

 

[mnby1]

Google Woodsman's Pal

Less than 100 bucks, forestry pros use them a lot.

 

[AStone]

Jim, wait ... did I understand that correctly? The 1248 best at whittling?

I'm having trouble visualizing that. I think of whittling as something
I'd do with a small 3" blade, not a 10" blade like on the 1248.

What am I missing?
_____

Mnby, I've seen the Woodsman's Pal recommended a lot, and have looked at them myself a few times, though have never used one. The look great, and I'm sure they're a fine tool, but for me, the 'hook' in the blade just didn't seem useful ... again, for me; I'm sure it's useful for a lot of folks. I'm guessing for pulling and cutting vines and stuff.

 

[22-rimfire]

If you aren't used to owning "big" knives, your first one is certainly very cool. I think "Wow" would cover it. I hate to admit it, but my very first large bladed fixed-blade knife was a SOG Tigershark (both the current version at that time and the SK-5 version) about 5-years ago. It still gives me a grin when I dig it out. That is the problem... dig it out. It isn't used for anything.

A large limb (3" or so) just fell off my black cherry tree in the back yard. I have no idea why. Guess it is time to try out my Condor Pack Golok.

 

[JimStC]

Nem,
I had a 2"x2" piece of yellow pine. My objective was to round off the last six inches. So off I go. All the knives have good edges, but the 1248 was awesome at rounding off the "handle" without digging into the wood. And with little effort.
I am as surprised as you. I will really appreciate some insight to this.
Again, this was not a fine effort. Just killing time and wanted to test out the knives.

Jim

 

[AStone]

I'm laughing, 22.

Jim, let me try to understand this more: were you really 'whittling' or more chopping. If whittling, how were you holding the knife?

Sorry to press this point so far, but just trying to visualize 'whittling' with a big knife.

 

[22-rimfire]

Well, I have to say the Condor Pack Golok worked like a charm. I reduced my big bushy cherry limb (about the size of a car in mass) down to managable pieces in about 30 minutes with the blade. This was actually more of an axe job than a knife job. But I wanted to see how this thing cut. No problemo. Now I have to get rid of it... pain in the butt.

Yes, I wore gloves just like Mikel Hawke (Man Woman Wild). It is something I am going to make a standard field item. (source Ace Hardware, form fitting padded leather palmed gloves with velcro deal at the wrist to make them snug and not get slung off.)

Nem, have fun with your new Ontario.

 

[AStone]

Funny you mention gloves, 22. At the hardware today (Home Depot), I purchased a pair of fingerless mechanics gloves for bike and work like this. Leather palm pads, velcro back closure for close fit. I've used fingerless gloves for years. In blackfly/mosquito season, they can also reduce blood loss.

 

[JimStC]

Nem,
Whittling, not chopping. Where I grew up it was a big deal when you got your first folder so you could whittle with your friends who got their folder before you.
Anyway, held it by the handle and made short, deliberate cuts rounding out the wood. I am as confounded as you by the results.

Jim

 

[hso]

Nem,

I agree with John about not thinning your edge down to get a razor edge for a chopper. You can remove material to leave the edge unsupported for chopping and roll your cutting edge or even chip pieces out of it. The "V" that is the bevel to the cutting edge is different for different applications. The steep narrow "V" of the razor doesn't drag like a broader one, but it also isn't strong against side loading or rolling.

I have seen different angles used on larger blades to allow for fine work near the guard and chopping forward of the mid point, but I'd rather have a small knife for fine work and a heavier chopper for that role instead of changing the bevel along the length of the blade.

 

[dayhiker]

Jim, let me try to understand this more: were you really 'whittling' or more chopping. If whittling, how were you holding the knife?

You really can "whittle" with almost anything. Just takes practice.






Its all in the technique...you can control almost any sharp chunk of metal.

 

[hso]

NICE figure 4 trap!

 

[JimStC]

Ditto. Very impressed with the tool you are using.

 

[dayhiker]

NICE figure 4 trap!

Ditto. Very impressed with the tool you are using.

Thanks. That one is just a toy to practice my axe carving.

Axes are sharp, but not like a razor.

True to some extent. Some of us prefer to use sharp,really, really sharp axes. Mine aren't quite equal to a razor, but will split a hair. Higher end axes such as GB,Wetterlings etc.. have an RC equal to some production carbon steel knives.

They will take an amazing edge with a simple stone or sandpaper. I (and others) don't see an axe as merely a chopping tool.If that was all I had in the outdoors, I would do just fine.

 

[22-rimfire]

They will take an amazing edge with a simple stone or sandpaper. I (and others) don't see an axe as merely a chopping tool.If that was all I had in the outdoors, I would do just fine.

More power to ya.

 

[AStone]

Hso: got it. Very reasonable.

Jim, I'm beginning to understand what you mean here by 'whittling'. Dayhiker's images help, also. When I think of whittling, I think of carving a little figurine, for example, with a pen knife. But I see what you're saying now. You're not carving figures, but cutting pieces off or cutting a groove (in Dayhiker's case). I get it.

I even played a little last night with my SP53, choking up on the handle with my index finger in the choil in front of the guard, and could see how using it to shave or cut could work. (For most tasks like that, my 5" SPE will get the call, but it can be done.)