should I attempt to file down 1911 ejector a notch?

[dekibg]

So I have a 9mm 1911. I purchased GSG-1911 22lr conversion kit. It does not fit the 9mm frame b/c the ejector is just a hair too tall. Apparently fits 45ACP 1911's perfectly. I had to remove the ejector completely ( having to punch out retaining pin first), in order to fire conversion kit, and it worked perfectly. Conversion kit does need 1911's ejector to kick out empty shells.
Now imagine having to take out and put back ejector every time I want to switch between 22 and 9mm on the range. it is pain in the ...
At this point I regret that I didn't spend $150 extra and bought a dedicated 1911 in 22LR, but it is what it is.
What option do I have here: can I just file ejector down a little bit, so conversion kit's slide can travel freely?
Would it affect ejecting 9mm shells properly ?
if not using a file, should I use a fine sandpaper instead?
Any advice is appreciated .
Thank you !!!

 

[BBBBill]

That depends. Every brand of gun is a little different. In fact every single gun is different. One of the common problems among some of the budget 1911s is an overcut breach face. That sometimes compromises ejection unless a taller/wider ejector is fit to ensure a good whack at the case rim.

This link shows the correction process for such a condition. It involves installing a taller/wider ejector. The point is that you don't want to create this condition if it doesn't exist now. http://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=4595839&postcount=9
Strip your slide, insert a round under the extractor, push it up the breach face as far as it will go, and compare it to the second picture in the link. If your ejector is able to get a solid whack at the rim, you are probably OK for taking a little off the top to clear the slide. If not, taking a little out of the .22 slide slot to clear the ejector might be a better plan.
The example in the link is a 45ACP, but it's the same for any caliber. 9mm ejectors are already wider/taller because of the smaller diameter round.

 

[JRadice45]

Why not just leave out the roll pin securing the ejector to the frame? The only way to remove a 1911 ejector is from the top and when the slide is on the ejector is going nowhere. Thats what i would do insead of filing on a $20 ejector or a$300+ conversion kit.

 

[dekibg]

"That depends. Every brand of gun is a little different. In fact every single gun is different. One of the common problems among some of the budget 1911s is an overcut breach face. That sometimes compromises ejection unless a taller/wider ejector is fit to ensure a good whack at the case rim.

This link shows the correction process for such a condition. It involves installing a taller/wider ejector. The point is that you don't want to create this condition if it doesn't exist now. http://forums.1911forum.com/showpost...39&postcount=9
Strip your slide, insert a round under the extractor, push it up the breach face as far as it will go, and compare it to the second picture in the link. If your ejector is able to get a solid whack at the rim, you are probably OK for taking a little off the top to clear the slide. If not, taking a little out of the .22 slide slot to clear the ejector might be a better plan.
The example in the link is a 45ACP, but it's the same for any caliber. 9mm ejectors are already wider/taller because of the smaller diameter round."





I understand your reply, thank you very much. How do you "take out a little bit of 22 slide?" . Does that include professional gunsmith ? The 22lr slide is made of aluminum or aluminum alloy, I think. Is it still possible ?

 

[dekibg]

"Why not just leave out the roll pin securing the ejector to the frame? The only way to remove a 1911 ejector is from the top and when the slide is on the ejector is going nowhere. Thats what i would do insead of filing on a $20 ejector or a$300+ conversion kit. "


I was thinking about that, too. I understand that with the slide on - ejector can't go up.
But is leaving ejector without pin going to make it more prone to have it's posts ( also called "legs") snapped eventually b/c of the stress of rocking a little bit back and fort every time the empty shell hits it. I know that pulling broken posts ("legs") is a major pain. According to some gunsmiths removing ejector is very touchy operation :they suggest you do that by holding the ejector in the padded vise ( frame should be upside down), and then carefully lifting the frame...

 

[Jim Watson]

How much will you have to take off the top of the 9mm ejector?
Expressed in real numbers like thousandths of an inch or percentage of the height of the "beak."

 

[dekibg]

"How much will you have to take off the top of the 9mm ejector?
Expressed in real numbers like thousandths of an inch or percentage of the height of the "beak." "

I think between 5-10% percent of the ejector's total height

 

[rcmodel]

Why don't you just get another ejector for your gun, and file away.

If it doesn't work, put the original ejector back in.

If it does work, you have a spare.

rc

 

[Nappers]

Why don't you just get another ejector for your gun, and file away.

If it doesn't work, put the original ejector back in.

If it does work, you have a spare.

rc

Strong he is with the force! I would have said that same exact thing, but I didn't think of it.....

 

[JRadice45]

Most ejectors i have encountered go in and come out with very little force involved. If a leg were to break tap the frame upside down on a bench and the broken piece will lift out enough to grab with pliers. If the ejector goes in and out tight, get a spare and adjust the legs so it is not so tight.

 

[rcmodel]

That used to be true.

Until many manufactures started mounting them with red lock-tight.

Now, you are as likely to have to drill the broken legs out as pull them out with anything short of a bumper jack!

rc